Very interesting technique mrpepper - but unconventional indeed. Can you explain how you manage (what toolset you use) to increase your EC by only .05 mS/cm (EC) each two weeks (if that is what you meant)? I am growing most peppers in about 3 months from seed to harvest, that would mean a total increase of 0.25 only ;-) I believe that there is a multitude of distinct (sometimes uncommon) strategies that actually work. In fact many work, because plants are very adaptable . But if all these different approaches are just interchangeable as in "any of them may work, as it works for me", why not choose the simplest, easiest and most economic of them? I do not agree on the following: "Hot Pepper Plants do not like Nitrogen". Every plant likes and needs nitrogen, so do peppers (bell, wild or semi domesticated) as well. But in case you feed nitrogen in excess, they may have too much vegetative growth, will tend to be week in stems, bloom late, drop blossoms or pods, or get even prone to fungus and parasites. In a later stage they even need some more for fruit building (depending on pod size). Btw: a study about Jalapeño pepepers has even shown, that Nitrogen content of a nutrient solution is relevant for the pungency of the pods! I have some trouble recognizing the logic behind this: "every 5 days min, I change my solution. This seems to make a big difference when the plants are in the early stages versus waiting a week or so." It might be related to your PH. Because if you change the nutrients, your PH will be reset as well. Correcting the PH, instead of changing the nutrients that early would be the more conventional and certainly more economic way to proceed. UNLESS you only use a very small quantity, - in later case, this strategy obviously makes sense and isn't a uncommon thing at all. But if you use a decent quantity of nutrient at an early stage, plants (peppers or else) do not actually draw much nutrients from that stock- hence I don't see what a more frequent nutrient replacement in an early growth stage may actually change or improve to the better. As for growing seedlings in 0.2 mS/cm, it's unconventional as well from my perspective. Simply because most waters used for hydroponics have already got 0.2-0.4 mS/cm if not more. Allthough the concentration to use with seedlings is actually controversial and still a kinda disputed matter. Here also, very different strategies seem to work if you believe what people regularly report or recommend on several forums (or websites). As for my personal experience with peppers (or any other plants), anything under 0.5 mS/cm always delays both, shot- and root growth. But what may be true in Paris, may not be the case in Sevastopol ;-) The water you use for growing seedlings is essential and has to be the key factor with four your strategy anyway. The very distinct water quality (with a multitude of mineral content and concentration) that is used by various folks is clearly underestimated with hydroponics and mostly when it turns around germination and seedlings. Cheers and good hunt for more rare peppers ;-) Lucas

Could be a lot of things--looks like it could be a C. baccatum. Do you have a flower picture?

ucovinero, please substantiate your claim. For the sake of debate, we can all benefit from knowing the facts. Sounds like you and I share the same concept as to what dictates TRUE dwarfism. Morphological characters are brought about by gene seperation or isolation, not by propagation from cuttings. Personally, I believe dwarfism is characterized by how many genetic changes are responsible for the evolution of new characters. New species can be derived from segregating progenies produced from hybrids within and between plant species. For example, so called "dwarf" fruit trees and Japanese maples are generally trees grown from grafted stock. Grafting is simply a quicker method to achieve a more compact form which would otherwise take many years to bring about morphological divergence. It has been my personal experience with fruit trees that if not properly maintained, they can resort to becoming standard size trees. Now I do have some true hybridized dwarf daffodils coming up in my yard at the moment. :)

Hi Hickory. A greenhouse is on my wish list that likely will never come true. :-( The orchids and cyclamen are hardy varieties and multiply worse than my mimosa tree! The tree fern, Dicksonia antarctica, is enduring his first winter here. There is an area on the south side of the house that is a happy microclimate for over wintering things like dahlias, glads, and some volunteer petunias have been caught blooming in February here. As an added bit of insurance, the tree fern is enclosed in a WALL-O-WATER and heavily mulched and insulated with maple and magnolia leaves. It acts as a wind break, warms the surrounding air plus is a nice way to stop my 110 pound German Shephard from "watering" it, if you know what I mean. I use this technique for other wee trees in the yard until they are large enough to withstand extra waterings. It also protects the small trees from bunnies munching on them. I believe if you click on MY PAGE, there are some pictures to illustrate what I'm rambling on about. The banana, Musa basjoo I think, is in his third year outside. Again, against the house in a warmer microclimate and heavily mulched. Since I do not have a greenhouse, I transplanted many geraniums, and other more tender things into that bed. The whole bunch is underneath a giant tarp supported from the overhang of the roof. I did peek at my plants when it was in the double digits a few days ago and they are doing well. The banana is about 6 ft. tall and has the edges of the upper most leaves browned..that's it. The tree fern was as content as can be. So far..said with fingers crossed. I don't have a particular theme for my yard, as you may have guessed. I plant what I like and it seems the more unusual the better. You want me to list my plants? I didn't think anyone would care about it. I will if you want. I'll put it on MY PAGE or something like that. Clever way to encourage me to do my list too! :-) Will do.