In order to get a picture of the difference between soluble fertilizers and organic fertilizers, imagine cell membranes as the fabric chain link fences are made of. Soluble fertilizers moving through cell walls might be considered something like you pushing ping pong balls through the holes in the fence, while organic molecules are more like trying to push basketballs through. The basketballs would have to be broken down into smaller pieces before they would fit. If there is no one standing by to break the basketballs down (if there are reduced populations of soil biota to break down the large organic molecules) no basketball parts get through. MG houseplant fertilizer is probably not a good choice. I believe the % of NPK is 8-7-6, or very close to that. Plants actually use about 6x more N than P and about 1.5x more N than K. If you choose a soluble fertilizer, you would be better served with something in a 3:1:2 ratio. 24-8-16, 12-4-8, and 9-3-6 are all very popular 3:1:2 ratio soluble fertilizers. Dyna-Gro makes 9-3-6 Foliage-Pro soluble. It's not easy to find, but it's the best I've seen because it also includes Ca and Mg (usually lacking in commonly found soluble blends like MG, Peters, Schultz .....), and it contains all the essential elements in the ratio plants need for normal growth and in a very favorable ratio to each other, also an important consideration. Al

Most of the popular culinary herbs don't want or need fertiliser - they prefer their soil poor. Potted plants, however, will need not to be ignored - they are high maintenance and you'll need to fertilise those from time to time as the nutrients leach out (this doesn't happen in the garden). I find that compost is a good fertiliser. I have only a teensy courtyard garden, so no space for a compost heap - so I buy it in bags. Whenever the soil level in pots gets a bit low, in goes a handful or two of compost. And while I'm at it, I toss handfuls of it hither and thither over the garden. Even changing the potting soil from time to time will be enough for many of your herbs - you'll do this for things like mint or lemon balm on a regular basis. Basil and chillies are greedy plants and will need more fertiliser than others. I suggest for beginners to use a slow-release fertiliser in pellets according to manufacturer's instructions around basil.

From the three elements, N, P, K, the P(phosphorus) sticks to the soil for a long long time. Th "K"(Potasius) is also partially stable. But "N"(nitrogen) is water soluable and will be used up fast and will leach out quickly. So, after fertilizing with NPK for a while, you won't need "P" or "K". All you have to keep adding (slowly, continuously) is "N". With most herbs you do not need extra "P" because you do not want flower or fruit, but just green top. So, to summarize, in most cases you will need just the nitrogen(N), very sparingly. I mixed a lot of wood ash that takes care of Potash(k) and also makes soil more alkaline that most herbs like. cyrus

> Probably the most important rule about fertilizing is to never feed a tree that is under stress. The causes of stress are many, ranging from over watering or under watering to newly pruned roots or disease. > Once again, it is so very important to know what type of tree your bonsai is. Different types have specific needs as to the type and frequency of fertilization. > Many enthusiasts who have some experience think the safest method, with no fuss, is 4 month type of 14-14-14 time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote. This is incorporated right into the potting mix or sprinkled on the surface and worked down into the mix. > Most broadleaf trees and tropicals can be fed with any general houseplant or garden fertilizer. > Conifers, azaleas and certain others can benefit from a monthly application of an acidic fertilizer, such as MirAcid. > Some growers include hormones such as Superthrive in their regimen to stimulate root production. > Trees should only be fertilized when in periods of active growth. This is generally from midspring through early summer and from late summer to early fall. > If your summers are extremely hot and your trees are outdoors, do not fertilize until temperatures have moderated and growth has resumed. > Likewise, do not feed trees in winter when they are either dormant or growth has slowed down. > Some growers prefer organic fertilizers over chemicals. This is an ongoing debate and much too lengthy to go into detail here.