You won't lose them. You're in a zone where you may be able to grow them all year, depending on your winter. Cannas continually produce new stalks which will bloom even tho old stalks may be exhausted. Here, we cut the cannas down when a frost kills the foliage, which was just in the last week or two. Do you get frost? I wouldn't cut the foliage until the last possible minute. It will continue to absorb energy for the rhizomes. Throughout the season, as old stalks finish blooming (each stalk may have two or three flushes of blooms), you can trim down the old stalks so new stalks can take in nutrients and sunlight. You can cut the stalks to about an inch tall. Don't worry, you're not going to hurt the cannas. In fact, in your zone, they may be "weeds" for you someday. Believe me, if I haven't killed them here in zone 7, with my neglect, they're safe with you. LOL

Now my husband tells me he knew that area was called North Orange, but doesn't think it was a true city with N.O. in the address. And I thought he'd told me everything!!! We both got a laugh out of the riddle. Thanks. We have one Japanese Yew left in our front yard. It is the kind with the long, wide leaves and was here when we bought the house in May 1967 and the two yews were mature back then. When we added a double carport to our house, they took out the one on the right side of the house front, but I wouldn't let them take out the one on the left because there was no reason to do so. The house was built in the 1950s and the yews were probably the builders' choice of plants at the time because they are all over the subdivision. They just won't give up living and have the spirit of the fig tree, IMO. I'll have to let the yew know how much I value it when I'm outside tomorrow. Looks like my yew is an elder..... ;) noss

You have a lot of options to consider, but IS getting pretty late to chop it back hard or do any serious pruning. I mean, you really don't want to remove all the plant's food-making factories (leaves) just as it's about to take a break for the winter. Where you live has an impact on what your realistic present time options are, so maybe we should find that out at this point & then figure out what to do/ what you can do. Adding your zone and state or city/state to your user info will help others give you the most specific advice, so you might consider that option. Al

First you need to know that all stems and roots come from a leaf node (where a leaf was or is). On zonal geraniums there is usually a ring around the stem where the leaf was and 2 tiny dried up things that look like tiny leaves. If you cut above those rings the plant will send out new shoots. It will also send up new shoots from the roots. 1/3 is not a tried and true rule. I usually try to shape the plant when I'm cutting back the stems. In other words if you have a tall gangly stem you can cut it back by more than 1/3. Be careful not to overwater. Geraniums don't like to be overwatered at any time but especially when they have no leaves. Give the plants the best light you can. If you have grow lights set the plants under them. You can start new plants with the cuttings. This is taken from my file on plants TAKING GERANIUM CUTTINGS First you must make sure everything you use is very clean. Take your cuttings: With a sharp knife or razor blade cut a 4 or 5 inch piece from the growing tip, cutting just below a leaf. Remove all but the top 3 or 4 leaves. Let your cuttings callus over--Lay them out somewhere on newspaper. Mine sit on my spare room floor. Let them sit for about 5 days. The leaves will look wilted and dead but they're not. The cut end will shrivel and dry. Letting them callus over and watching the water cuts down on blackleg a deadly fungal disease especially to cuttings. Now plant your cuttings. In a clean pail mix your soil with the water so you make sure the soil is damp right through. Use a soilless mix like pro mix or one that is formulated for seeds and cuttings. Just make sure it has no fertilizer in it. You want the soil wet but not too wet. Squeeze a handful and some moisture should come out but not a lot. Fill your pots and make a little hole in the center with your finger or something else that will make a small hole.A small pot will not be as easily overwatered. I use six pack tray inserts to start them and transfer to larger pots as they grow. Dip about 1/2 inch of the cut end in rooting hormone. It comes in powder or gel, either is OK as long as it's for soft wood cuttings. I use Stim-root NO. 1. After it's dipped put it in the hole and cover it in, and you're done. Keep the soil moist but not overly wet. They will look wilted at first but that will change as it starts to grow roots. You will know it's rooted when it starts to show new growth. If you are going to plant it outside, wait until it is rooted well before you set it out. Last year I used a heating mat under my cuttings and I only lost 1 or2 of my cuttings to black leg. Black leg is a fungal disease of geraniums. The stem turns black and the cutting is dead or soon will be.. As with most fungal diseases it thrives in cold and wet. Adding the heat mat keeps the soil warm and the nasties away. Good luck