You can conduct a seed germination test. It's real easy. I did it a few weeks ago on some Tomato, Cucumber, and Chile pepper seeds that have been in my seed drawer for ages. These seeds were OLD - packed in 1997 and 1998 - and I was curious to see if they would sprout. I used a flat Tupperware container lined with paper towels. Thoroughly wet the paper towels with a sprayer, and then laid 4 seeds of each veggie in the container. Labeled seeds. Spritzed the seeds once a day to keep them moist and store in a warm, dark place. Leave the top of the container cracked so they have air. When they start to sprout you can put them on the counter. The cucumbers sprouted in 3 days. The Tomatoes and then chile peppers a few days after that. Out of 12 seeds, 10 sprouted with healthy sprouts. 1 Cucumber was a deformed sprout and 1 tomato didn't sprout at all. For seeds that need cold stratification, you could accomplish that by putting the seeds in some moist vermiculite or sand and put them in the refrigerator and wait for them to sprout.

The flower has both male and female parts but Ariocarpus does need a mate to produce seed. Beautiful plant!

First some basics. This may seem obvious, but you must leave flower heads on plants that you want to set seed. Deadheading to prolong bloom is not an option unless the plant produces enough flower stalks that you can deadhead some and leave others to fall off naturally while seeds form. If you grow vegetables and fruits to eat, allowing plants to go to seed may spoil the intended product (for example, lettuce leaves taste bitter once plants flower) or reduce the quantity of edibles, or the seeds themselves may be what you plan on eating (peas, for instance). A further consideration is that many popular garden plants, grown for flowers or for food, are hybrids and either do not produce seed or their seeds are not viable (viable means able to germinate and grow). In any case, before you can collect seed from any plant it must go through the whole cycle of flowering, being pollinated, developing seed, and ripening. Some plants develop seeds within pods of varying descriptions, others hide their seeds inside fruits or berries, and still others harbor their seeds directly inside the dying flower heads. In all cases, any seeds produced will develop in close proximity to the spot where the flowers originally appeared. If you can not locate seeds on a particular plant, try posting a question to the Growing From Seed forum here at GardenWeb for assistance. It's best to let seeds ripen on the plants until they are *almost* ready to disperse on their own. It's a common mistake to separate seeds from the plant before they've finished developing; any collected too early will not be viable. Once seeds have finished enlarging, they will generally change color (from whitish or green to tan, brown, or black) and begin to dry out. Pods will start splitting open, berries or fruits will shrink and wrinkle, or flower heads will begin to fall apart, dropping the seeds within. On many plants the seeds don't ripen all at once (check daily), and it can be useful to tie a small paper bag or the toe cut from panty hose over the seed heads to prevent dispersal before you can harvest. If this method isn't practical, collect the seed heads or pods before they are completely dried out (i.e. papery dry), or the seed may either have dispersed or will fall out when you shake the plant stems while breaking off the pods or heads. *Cutting* the stems will help to prevent this sort of seed loss. As long as you wait until the flower seed heads have turned dark and fairly dry, or until the bracts ("leafy" shape that surrounds the petals of a flower where it attaches to its stem) or the pods themselves have quit enlarging and begun to dry out, you can cut and take these indoors to finish ripening in a cool, shaded place inside a closed paper bag (this will prevent you from losing seeds which disperse *explosively*, such as Impatiens and Phlox). How do I know if my plants are hybrids that may not produce seed true to the parent plant? Always save any tags or labels on plants you buy and ask questions about plants you obtain from other gardeners. Unfortunately, many commercial growers don't tag their plants very informatively (even the conscientious ones make mistakes), and many gardeners only know their plants by common names, which can vary widely throughout different parts of the country and world. Your best bet is to learn all you can about the plants you have or want and post questions about specific ones on the Growing From Seed forum to get additional advice.

Bart, do you have any Gallicas? They do mauve really well. You have to like their wildish character, accept their once-flowering--for my part I have no problem with this--and be willing to risk that a hot dry summer may result in less than glorious blooms. I love them! P.S. Examples of mauve Gallicas are 'De la Maitre-Ecole' and 'Ypsilante'. The latter may be more demanding than your average Gallica--I'm not sure--but is extremely beautiful. 'De la Maitre-Ecole' gets mildew in summer, but that doesn't slow it down. It's bomb-proof, and the flowers are splendid. I just went and took a look at the photos on HMF. The photo by andreafxr, second page, are what my 'De la Maitre-Ecole' looks like: large, not overfull, cool pink aging to mauve and lavender. The colors in his photos are correct. I'm not sure that all the photos of 'De la Maitre-Ecole' on HMF represent the same rose, but andreafxr is in Lodi, and if you got 'De la Maitre-Ecole' in Italy, I think you'd end up with the variety his photo shows. For 'Ypsilante', Maddalena Piccinini's photo on HMF exactly captures this glorious rose. She too lives in Piacenza, by the way.