Burnt Ridge told me they used at least two different species of rootstock for their persimmons -- mine was a Hana Fuyu -- and they didn't keep record of the rootstock with their inventory. I think they said they used D.v. and D.k., but I can't remember precisely which two they said they used. Another possibility is that I just didn't scratch deep enough on the rootstock. I could very well be wrong about what's going on, but I do know that a scratch test up in the tree looks very good and that there's no sign of any growth yet, even though my other kakis broke dormancy a couple weeks ago and are leafing out now. I did hedge my bet by cutting some scions (although it's not much of a hedge with my kaki grafting success rate to date.)

My earlier post was maybe confusing. When I said too dry, I meant while still bare, before potting or planting. But that appears to not be the problem. My guess now is drowning. btw, the grafts didn't necessarily take. They will put out a little growth from the energy stored in the scion. Make it a point to read this forum every day. Also find the potted plant forum and read there too. Better to start them in thier final location if you can. I did some for my brother this year. He lives a couple hours away. I watered the soil while mixing it about to get the moisture I wanted then put the dirt in pots, then put in the root stocks and mulched them. I kept them out of the rain and dribbled a little water on them just a few times in 6 weeks. I graft when the rootstock is breaking dormancy and preferably the scion is not, but if it is that's OK too. I transplanted my bros trees 6 weeks later. the roots had not started to circle in the pot and the trees took right off. I have a tree in my yard that I bought from a nursury and it still suffers from roots that were badly balled up encircling the pot. I cut them in 1/4's as is the rule, but the tree still has not got on track.

I wrote some time ago about the difference in rootstock that does not work for me.I believe if you grow asian persimmon it is best to use rootstock that grow in your area. If you are young enough you start with seed from a source close to your area,let it grow for a few years then graft the varieties that you want.The reason that i mention years because the rootstock tree,s grow much faster then when you graft too soon,imo.If you buy tree's from mail order nurseries the tree's will not grow a long taproot and therefor not ideal if you live in a area with prolong droughts.I am in such an area and i notice the difference,further more you want your tree's to come out dormancy at the same times.Tony i don't water my persimmon tree's because i have too many spread out over a large area.

Will, I think it's best to consider the needs of the roots and tops of the plant separately. The USDA zone rating is a rough geuss but as you know, with so many other factors coming into play as well (wind, wet soil, on and on...) Here's an interesting example from the same webpage you quoted from above: "Cedrus atlantica, brevifolia, and libani are all grafted onto Cedrus deodara, the least hardy of the three. There are several reasons for this choice. The hardiness is not a factor since the deodara root system in the ground is at least as hardy as any Cedrus cultivar above ground. Secondly, the root system is more fibrous and better developed than in the other species making it a much better choice for nursery use." In this example, the top is least hardy, but the roots are most hardy, and the species is the preferred understock. I geuss this all gets at your fourth question to illustrate that you cannot make a plant "more hardy" by choice of rootstock, unless the limiting factor is the hardiness of the roots (not the top) in the first place. I geuss others already made this point more concisely - just wanted to add my two cents and what I thought was an interesting and illuminating example. Alex