My banana does that when I bring it in and it does make a mess like purple stated, mind would drip alot at night,so first thing in the morning I would dry the leaves to stop more dripping.

I started my first peppers recently and noticed they close at night, I thought maybe they are sensitive plants that close if they get cool or it gets dark.

corkball, I have clay soil.......and there are veins so heavy and white it could be used in a horse shoe pit. I avoid those, lol. For the most part, I plant trees in it without issue and never with ammendment. I am careful, however, to consider the tree because some are less tolerant of water issues for the most part and I get around it by planting those on hillsides, of which I have many. That's why raised bed planting comes up. I dunno......the chestnut I suspect you may find be futile and may want to consider waiting until dormancy and if it's small enough to try and move it. If you do.....look at roots carefully. It may have been a dead man walking when it was planted. Why I am saying this is I'd hope that the newest growth would show signs of "pulling out if it". And that doesn't seem to be the case. In fact it looks almost as if the newest growth has some leaf curl and distortion compared to the other picture of the healthy oak. Sometimes that's a symptom of calcium deficiency and that can be exacerbated by magnesium applications, foliar or root. How large are these young trees?

All the dissolved solids flushed from the soil are in the effluent - you don't want them making their way back into the soil, else why bother to water correctly in the first place? This is especially true when using fertilizers that have NPK %s significantly different than the ratio at which nutrients are used because nutrient concentrations in the soil solution and effluent quickly become badly skewed and create problems related to EC/TDS and antagonisms. And now the 'extra holes' are good for gas exchange? That's a switch from improved drainage. If we focus on providing plants with media that supports very little perched water, gas exchange won't be a problem. Gas exchange issues become significantly more limiting as water retention increases and air porosity decreases. Plants sitting in puddles, no matter how many holes in the container, is not conducive to good gas exchange or a well oxygenated rhizosphere. Something I wrote about using hydrogen peroxide several years ago: H2O2 has an extra O atom (compared to H2O) in an unstable arrangement. It's the extra atom that makes it useful in horticultural applications. Generally, we're not concerned with aerobic forms of bacteria normally occurring in container media or on roots. Since H2O2 is an unstable molecule, it breaks down easily. When it does, a single O- atom and a molecule of water is released. This O- atom is extremely reactive and will quickly attach itself to either another O- atom forming stable O2, or attack the nearest organic molecule. Reduced O levels and high temperatures encourage both anaerobic bacteria and fungi. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by O, and the free O- H2O2 releases is very effective at this. Additionally, when plants growing in water-retentive media are treated with H2O2 it will break down and release O into the area around the roots. This helps stop the O from being depleted in the water filled air soil air spaces until air can get back into them. High O levels in the rhizosphere can encourage rapid healthy root growth and discourage unwanted bacteria/fungi. . I know H2O2 comes in several different strengths, the most common of which are 3% and 35% solutions. Least expensive is the 35% product which you dilute (to an approximate 3% solution) by mixing 1:11 with water. I have used the 3% solution at 1-½ to 2 tbsp per gallon as a cutting dip/soak, and have mixed it into irrigation water for plants in extremely water retentive soils at up to 3 tbsp per gallon, both with good results and nothing adverse apparent. H2O2 in high concentration is a powerful oxidant and quickly oxidizes almost anything it contacts, so be careful with it if you use it. A solution that is too strong can destroy any organic molecule it contacts. I’ve seen this chart posted several times as suggested strength solutions for use in watering plants. You may wish to start at a lower concentration , such as I’ve used, and experiment. TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE --OR-- ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 1 cup, 3% - add 1-1/2 teaspoons … 35% - 7 to 10 drops 1 quart, 3% - add 2 tablespoons … 35% - 1/2 teaspoon 1 gallon, 3% - add 1/2 cup … 35% - 2 teaspoons 5 gallons, 3% - add 2-1/2 cups … 35% - 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon 10 gallons, 3% - add 5 cups … 35% - 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons 20 gallons, 3% - add 10 cups … 35% - 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Al