Thanks to both of you. I'm beginning to suspect my deck is different. There don't seem to be any handles on it at all. What the book tells you to do is: "Put a 15mm closed wrench or a socket on the idler sheave nut (A) and rotate clockwise to move idler sheave toward front of tractor and hold to release belt tension." I tried that, but it doesn't give nearly enough tension release. I'm begining to wonder... I bought the new belt from Alexander & Duncan in Leominster UK, and while I was at it I bought a second one as a spare. The second one has "John Deere" on its outside face, but the first doesn't, and it's the first one that I mounted. Both these belts came in an identical thin card sleeve, but they weren't coiled quite the same way. I'm wondering if someone "made a mistake" and put a non-original belt in a John Deere sleeve. But be that as it may, is it possible that your 48" deck and mine aren't the same? I bought the whole thing less than a year ago, so maybe they changed the pattern. Passthegravey: does your manual talk about slipping a wrench over the left-hand idler sheave nut?

I believe these 4 photos graphically point out the area of the head gasket (the right bank of engine) that has begun leaking compression/combustion into the water jacket. This may have led to the radiator cap venting to relieve the subsequent pressure in the cooling system. What I DO NOT see, is an obvious failure of the head gasket directly into either of the pushrod galleries of the head, and that would be the most likely path by which coolant could enter the lube oil sump (but without the "hot fire effect" to act on the gasket at the edge of the galleries, visible damage to the gasket might not occur, even though it is leaking). There are two ways to explain how coolant may have gotten into the lube oil as a result of this leaking head gasket pressurizing the cooling system. (1) The leaking head gasket may have been caused by under-torqued headbolts, which also allowed the pressurized coolant to leak into the pushrod galleries. (2) As a result of enough coolant being expelled from the coolant recovery jug (there is one on the tractor, right?) over time, the cooling system finally reached a point where it could no longer handle the heat load under all conditions. This would mean that the engine was operating hotter than normal at times, and heading for eventual "total cavitation", or "catestrophic boilover" of the cooling system. The repeated overheated events could have allowed the head and/or cylinder to warp or bend, and during that phase, the high pressure in the cooling system could have forced coolant under the head gasket, and into the pushrod galleries. I sort of have a problem believing that the pressurized coolant would ONLY leak into the pushrod galleries, and not also leak to the external surfaces somewhere else around the outside perimeter of the cylinder head gasket. But, I have a "theory" on that too. As a consequence of design, the clamping force of the head bolts is less on the portion of the head gasket at the pushrod galleries. Consider this fact. The clamping force provided by the one head bolt in this sector is spread over a greater area (the entire gallery in addition the edge of the water jacket) and therefore, would be somewhat less at any given point in this sector than the rest of the gasket perimeter. The clamping force may be just enough less, that it can allow high pressure coolant to force its way into the pushrod galleries, but still not be able to escape at other sectors of the perimeter where the clamping force of the head bolts is more concentrated due to the smaller surface area the gasket rests on in those places. ??? If anybody has some insider info to support or rebut my opinion, please give a big shout. loys would certainly appreciate the info.

I have a L130 - similar - same front axle. My axle (mowing 2 acres country plot, snow blowing with 48" blower) has snapped 2 times. I tried nickle rods to weld it first time, but at about 50 bucks it was too much work to do and did not hold. I just ordered the 2nd axle, but will probably make my own axle soon from square tube steel. Should not be too hard to do, and probably will cut off the spindles and weld them into the tube. The rest is just drilling. Might line the pivot hole with another steel tube too. Anyway, the cast iron used is pretty close to pot metal, and is about as cheap as it comes. I think Deere only makes the axle and the dealers actually claim their Cast Iron axles are stronger than average lawn tractors. Ha ha ha. My old Sears and Murray had tube steel axles which never had a problem in years of use at the same property. I wont bother talking about eh TuffTorq tranny - another too little and too light thing deere did to make more money on this tractor. This shows what kind of management Deere has, and personally I would never buy another deere. I sure dont want to put 10,000$ into a green lawn mower just because its supposed to be good. For 10k$ I could have a machine shop make me one that is actually good. Sorry about my rant, but this lawn tractor has to go.

Given up on the OMC Products Young Gun ? lol . Looks like a Old Tecumseh Engine . Is the mower deck Cast Alluminium or Pressed Steel ? Appears to be Alluminium from the pic . Unit may be either Murray or Mtd Product , any Casting Markings Info distinquishable ? Good condition for 30 - 40 yrs old .