Corner radius refers to the degree of roundness at the corner of a rectangle. A zero degree corner radius creates a sharp point. The larger the radius, the more curved the corner will be. This link has the best description I could find of how to measure a corner radius: https://store.spa-mart.com/support/index.php?_m=knowledgebase&_a=viewarticle&kbarticleid=3 This link has a graph that you can click on to get an idea of a smaller radius: http://www.customlabel.com/blog/?p=143 Here is a chart with larger radius examples, but I'm not sure it is accurately to scale, but will give you an idea of a 1" and 2" corner radius. Best to measure for yourself using the first link above:

>For me however, given the choice in cabinetry, I'd go solid, so now I will tell you why. I like the feel of the heavier doors. A solid panel is also easier to repair if it gets damaged. I've seen some veneer panels completely blow out when hit hard enough. Plywood and veneer aren't the same thing, and both come in many thicknesses. I have no idea what you mean by "blow out", but properly glued veneer (or properly made plywood) will never delaminate. OTOH, only a fool would make guarantees about solid wood and warping and splitting on larger panels. Many companies, for that reason, will either not make the large doors without extra stiles or will not guarantee them. If you have a raised panel fridge door with just two panels, for instance, all the luck to you, but there's a reason that raised panel passageway doors are made with SMALL panels. >I've had several clients complain about the rattly sound when closing a door with a thin center panel (especially if the doors are large...tall 42" uppers and pantry doors are the worst). You don't think about that until you're using it everyday. You mean that the whole DOOR vibrates? Or that the panel vibrates in the door? With the second, it's more likely that solid panels will develop that problem over time, since they move more with the seasons. You can reverse-cove-shape a plywood panel, too, though the results wouldn't be as pretty on the backside, but I'd take that before having a *big* solid wood center panel. The LAST place you want big panels is with solid wood. (Unless, of course, you can magically keep the moisture and temperature exactly steady year-round--like you'd have to to keep paint from splitting where stiles join, as Woodmode mentioned.) It will warp very rapidly. You're courting disaster if you insist on it. If you have to have solid wood on big doors--if, for instance, you have the actual panel with a cove facing out--then you should keep the size of each panel to a reasonable dimension considering the dimensional stability of your chosen wood. That means raising the number of panels per door. >And finally, veneers can STAIN differently and AGE differently than solid wood. I've seen kitchens where the center veneer panel is slightly lighter in color that the solid wood frames. Now you're making no sense. A horizontal stile will look a different color from a vertical stile because of the direction of the wood grain. This is true with the vast majority of stain colors. Natural variation in the wood mean that panels and stiles will also look slightly different colors to a very careful eye. The BEST way to get panels to look the same, if you're not doing an almost opaque stain, is with veneers. (True veneers, not plywood.) The BEST way is to book match or slip match veneers. Without that, the best you can do is to do a "pleasing match" of solid woods--that is, select them to make sure they are all the same color. If some moron didn't do so, blaming the veneering process (or the fact that they used plywood) shows an astonishing lack of comprehension of what veneer/plywood is. If you like solid wood panels because you think they're more authentic, sure, whatever, I'll give it to you. If you like the idea of being able to put an enormous gouge in a piece of furniture and the color underneath being able to be stained to the same color, I'll agree but I'll think you're crazy since any sensible person would fill it, sand it, stain it, and make it disappear. But if you're pretending that, in performance, solid wood is superior for a flat panel application or if you're pretending that the most exquisite furniture made today isn't enormously dominated by rare and beautiful veneers...you're selling your clients a load of nonsense. The very best casework is made with a mixture of plywood, veneers, inlays, and solid wood--typically, in that order. The pieces that are worth more than my car ever was rarely have more than trace amounts of solid wood. Pretending that solid wood=high quality is dangerously deceptive. The stile-and-panel style door was originally developed because slabs of solid wood warp so dramatically. (Yes, solid-wood panels work--as long as you keep the doors within reasonable sizes ***for the material.*** Many people don't want that, though....) Historically...yes, Shakers wanted simpler designs. They couldn't change the existence of stiles-plus-panels because plywood technology didn't exist yet. The cove actually has a function in solid-panel doors, so they kept it and reversed it to make it seem less decorative. If Shaker villages were thriving today, they'd probably all have slab-style doors! :-) (Which aren't just slabs of playwood, BTW, but are built up--with plywood and solid wood, both--and usually have...yes, veneers, if they are any size at all. Those amazing zebrawood modernist design? All veneers!)

It definitely seems heavy on the black and white and greys color scheme, which is fairly neutral and somewhat easy to pull off as far as then blending your furniture into that. I have a lot of white ware, cream ware and depression glass stuff, which is very adaptable to a lot of situations. A few choice show pieces with color and texture because that is all you can afford. As for using old junk as furniture and ornaments, that was "in" during the 90's too. So Gaines style to me is just a black and white version of shabby chic with industrial touches thrown in. Not my style, but I can see how some people might find it restful. Some of her stuff is great but some of it makes me shudder as far as being practical. I don't mind words as art if it is poetry, inspirational quotes, or great calligraphy or even an old advertising poster. But random huge words just to take up space, not so much. But then I love art too much and have too many bookshelves, so I am never at a loss for what to put on a wall! So I too, have a hard time understanding what people want. Do you want a cool color scheme emphasizing black, grey and white? Do you want a mix of industrial and shabby chic reclaimed pieces or the look of that, maybe mixed in with some more traditional pieces to give an eclectic look? Plain Jane background with texture in your art and furniture and accessories?

I agree with a couple of prior posters. The real value of the 13 indictments is the detailed information on what the Russians did and how they did it. If the Trump administration is smart, they'll use those indictments as a resource for developing some procedures which will prevent or at least inhibit Russian meddling with our elections in the future. I also think we need to hit Russia with a cyber attack of some kind so it will think twice before meddling in our elections again and we also need to keep the existing Russian sanctions in place and implement the Russian sanctions that the Congress recently enacted because it is clear that Putin is desperate to have those sanctions lifted and he wouldn't be that desperate unless the sanctions were having an impact.