If you doubt the advice offered by Walt for some reason, consider this. The PTO clutch is an electromagnet utilizing a coil of wire. Passing electric current through the coil causes the coil to heat up, and that is a normal condition. The coil wiring may have a spot in it somewhere that separates after the coil heats up, and thus the coil ceases to be a magnet. Isolating the clutch from the rest of the interlock circuitry will determine if it is the clutch, or something elsewhere. If there are any control relays in the interlock circuits, those too utilize electromagnets to operate and are also susceptible to heating up and losing their function. "Wiring" must be understood to encompass all the devices and components that make up the electrical system, not just simply a piece of wire.

I have a similar problem with my gas log set. The pilot will not stay lit. It worked fine for about 20 years, then I had someone come in and replace the part that burns the pilot light (assumed it was burned out), then it worked for about two years, then it became too hard to light. Then I turned off the gas to the fireplace and gave it up for awhile. I don't know if the tech installed a not-so-great pilot light burner, or if there is another problem like the OP has. I would like to get it fixed so that it will last for another 20 years. When I had it fixed before, there weren't a lot of choices for fireplace technicians. Who should I call? Another fireplace tech? A plumber? I don't close the glass doors when I have have the fire on.

Laura, congret, that would make me happy too, with a Mom like you I wouldn’t expect any less, tell Hubby and kids job well done, don’t let up. Love to have some footage!!! Would be nice for my big screen set up, don’t you think, Laura. My tree’s get a few hours of outdoors and when it gets in the high 50,s or higher the bee,s are in the shop, not a lot, maybe 3 or 4. Just open the garage door. There so much bloom now, it smells like working in a perfume factory.

240V outlets and plugs look different from 120V. There are a couple of different shapes, depending on maximum current rating. But none of them would be confused with a "normal" 120V plug, and you couldn't physically fit the wrong components together. @wdccruise looked up that this particular model of dryer should have a 240V power cord. And I trust that he looked that up correctly and the manufacturer isn't lying to us (that does occasionally happen, but would be exceptionally rare). If so, the power cord that was attached to the dryer should not have physically fit into the outlet that you showed. It is possible that the dryer can be converted for 120V operation. Some dryers can be set up that way. And I don't believe anybody in this thread has read through all the manuals to see whether that's possible for this particular dryer. If that's what happened, somebody would have had to remove the 240V powercord and plug and would have had to install a 120V powercord instead. The 120V cord connect to different wirenuts in the dryer than the 240V cord. A 120V configuration is probably not ideal, as it'll take much (!) longer to dry. But in a rental apartment, that might be the only option. If done according to the manufacturer's instructions, it is possible to do this safely. But it is just as likely that somebody did their own hackjob conversion and messed things up. I think, that's what we are all worried about here. The fact that the breaker works for a while and then trips after a few minutes suggests that the circuit is overloaded (instead of, for instance, having a short circuit). Contrary to what most people think, a 15A breaker won't trip immediately if you draw more than 15A of current. It'll only do so if you draw a lot more current (e.g. a short circuit which momentarily allows hundreds of amps to flow). Instead, depending on the breaker, you could conceivably operate a 15A breaker at 30A for a minute or two before it trips. This is intentional and prevents nuisance trips caused by high start-up currents. This tells me, that either there are too many devices on the same circuit (not uncommon in older buildings) or that somebody didn't configure the dryer correctly when they changed the voltage. Maybe, they changed a 240V/30A model to a 120V/30A configuration, when they were supposed to disable part of the heater so that it would turn into a much lower-powered 120V/15A configuration? Just taking a shot in the dark here. As far as oversubscribed circuits are concerned, at one point, I had that problem with my microwave and the water kettle. Both are high-powered devices that draw close to 15A. And the place that I used them at only had a single circuit for the entire kitchen. So, any time I'd use both devices, things would initially work find, and then after about a minute the breaker would trip. Ouch.