I've made lots of hats with worsted weight - using only one strand of yarn. I use a k2,p2 ribbing. I'm thinking it was a size 8 needle... I use circulars because I hate sewing the seams. So you just keep going 'round and 'round on the k2,p2 until it gets to the right length, then start the decrease rows, switching to DPNs when necessary. If you don't already have a "membership" at Bernat yarns, go to the web site and sign up. It's free, with no obligations of any kind. They have a lot of free patterns that you can download if you are signed in. The pattern that "got me started" on knitting hats is the one they show using their Denimstyle yarn. That pattern is written for straight needles, then sewing the seam when done. I did that once - hated the seam, so I've always used circulars since then.

Most patterns have an index of what their abbreviations mean...doesn't yours? I did google with "2/2RC, P3" as the subject and found the following site, which should make it clear...(and, you're right...it is a cable) 2/2 RC (2/2 Right Cross) Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold at back, k2, then k2 from cable needle. here's the site URL http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/na_knitting/article/0,,DIY_14141_3502276,00.html

With a lot of swearing and after everybody else has gone to bed ;). Tee hee! Basically you use two circular needles of the same size, one that is 24 inches long and one that is 16 inches long. You cast the stitches for the first sock onto the 24 inch needle. Then you transfer half the stitches to the 16 inch needle (you have open ends pointing to the cable and the "hinge" between the needle tip of the 24 and the 16 incher). Push them across to the other end so that the opening is at the needle tips of the other side. Close your gap by running your starting thread through the first stitch of the opposite side, then tying it with your working yarn. Go back to the other side with a second ball of yarn and cast your stitches onto the 24 inch needle, then pick up half on the 16 inch needle again. Close the gap the same way, by running the starting yarn end through the first stitch on the opposite side then tying it with the working yarn. Now the first fiddly part (if the cast on didn't kill you). Starting with the 16 inch needle and pushing the 24 inch needle along so that all it's stitches are on it's cable, bring the opposite tip of the 16 inch needle around and knit one stitch, add a marker, then purl a stitch, then k1 p1 across the stitches of that first sock. Drop that yarn, making sure it is not between the needles. Pick up the working yarn from the other ball and k1, p1 across those stitches. You have now knit one half of a round on each of two socks. Turn the knitting around carefully (arranging the balls of yarn as necessary so you don't tangle) and k1 p1 across the stitches on the 24 inch needle. You should see that your working yarn is where you need it to be to start the next side. Make sure your first stitch on each sock on each side is nice and tight to avoid ladders up the sides. You have just finished a complete round on both sock cuffs. The stitch marker shows you the "start" of the round, so that is how you tell that you have done a complete circle on each sock. I have found it is best not to try and stop in the middle, but to continue so that when I pick it up again I am starting at the part with the marker again. When your cuff is long enough, change to straigth stockinette and continue until the leg is as long as you want it. So far, that is as far as I have gotten. I have about an inch of leg left before starting the heel flaps. If I remember correctly (I read the pattern ahead to try and figure out the technique) the heel flaps are knitted back and forth one at a time, ignoring the other sock as you are working. They are turned and gusset stitches are picked up the same way, one sock at a time ignoring the other one as necessary. Then when you start your rounds again (gusset decreasing etc.) you do one half of a round on each sock, turn your needles, do the other half of the round, and so on. It seems very fiddly and I'm still not sure I like it, however I would like the technique for ONE sock at a time. I keep getting tangled, but I am not the best judge of that. Between kids and dogs and cats and my own non-gracefulness it isn't much of a surprise LOL. I am learning using a book called "Knitting circles around socks - knot two at a time on circular needles" by Antje Gillingham. I knit funny so I find her pictures odd to follow since my arrangement is always different at the stage she is trying to illustrate. If you have trouble learning from printed word, I think there are some good tutorials on the net that are free. I needed a book because I was taking it on vacation and had no access to the internet (the horrors!). Let me know if you try it, and how you like it!

Hi Yarnlover, Yes, no right or wrong, only what works. As soon as I finish this little coat I will have that experience and, be able to apply what I have learned, what works and what does not work, to my next Einstein. And, you are right, the same method of counting the ridges throughout the entire piece is very important. I was counting the ridges only after they were complete and off of the needles...two rows. And of course, you get a different # of stitches with the right and wrong side of the piece. But what I found was that in order to have the correct # of st slip stitches along the sides of the upper fronts and back, my last ridge needed to be counted as it was still on the needle with the final row being the bind off. Does that make sense? I am sure that I counted only complete and off the needle ridges when I counted them for the 'skirt', but, it worked out. I came up with the correct # of stitches when picking up for both of the top sections as well as for the back. I now apply the 'no right-no wrong' thinking when I make my socks. I was a bit obsessive about them, had to be perfect in every way. Now many, many socks later the 'best I can do at the time' is just fine. Do they fit? Will they hold up to years of use and washing? Perfect! Thanks for your help. Yes, you should make another Einstein. I would like to make the Baby Albert Bunting. Sooo cute! sooey