An update on my 2009 posting. We now have had a Century Medicine cabinet with outlet in it since then (so over 8 years). A few years back we the electric cord from the mirror to the inside of the cabinet snapped (must have got trapped in the door over the years which weakened it). We called Century asking advice and they immediately sent us a new door with cord attached which was very easy to install ourselves. Excellent service and I am sure it was well out of warranty. That was years ago and no other issues.

It sure does. But, at least those glasses of wine across my screen are gone. They could have made a drunk out of me! Every time I opened the page, I'd have to run in for a glass of wine. Any color!! Linda

What you describe is permitted but the connection must be within the first 5 feet of the metal water pipe where it enters the house. I'd be suspicious of the few receptacles that do have the third prong until they have been verified to be grounded in a code compliant manner. Long, long ago in a galaxy far, far away, some of us were working on FAQ's and some were posted and can be accessed from the main page of the electrical wiring forum. The following is one that deals with this subject. It has not been proof read by other electricians and I invite them to submit comments or changes. Maybe we'll get this posted since this question comes up frequently. One problem frequently encountered in an older home is what to do about replacing a 2 prong ungrounded receptacle. There are several options of varying complexity. If an equipment ground is available in the box, then the receptacle must be replaced with a grounding type receptacle. See notes below on how to determine if there is an equipment ground available in the box. If there is no equipment ground available in the outlet box,you can replace the receptacle with another 2 prong receptacle. This is a reasonable course of action if you do not need to plug in any load that needs to be grounded. 2005 NEC 406.3(D)(3)(a) See notes below for a list of equipment that is required to be grounded. Another option that can be used, if no equipment ground is present and you do not have equipment that is required to be grounded, is to use a ground-fault interrupter type of receptacle. You must attach a label to the receptacle that states "No Equipment Ground." It is also possible that you could use this GFI receptacle to protect receptacles downstream and this would allow the replacement of those receptacles to be the 3 prong grounded type. You must label these receptacles "GFI protected, no equipment ground." 2005 NEC 406.3(D)(3)(b) and 406.3(D)(3)(c) The most complex option is to install an equipment grounding conductor. You must attach this conductor to the box if it is metal. The other end of this conductor can be connected to one of the following places: 1. Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250,50 of the 2005 NEC 2. Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor 3. The equipment grounding terminal bar in the enclosure that the circuit originates 4. For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor (neutral for a dwelling service) within the service equipment enclosure 5. For grounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure. 2005 NEC 250.130(C) Strict interpretation of 250.130(C) would require an individual equipment ground being run to every receptacle you plan to replace. There is no provision for connecting to another equipment ground when you are replacing receptacles. Installing an equipment ground as stated above can be a considerable amount of work. For very little extra effort, you could run a new circuit to the location that needs a grounded receptacle. Notes: 1. If the receptacle box is fed with metal conduit, then it is likely that the box is properly grounded. To verify this, connect a test light or voltmeter to the hot wire and the box. You should read 120 volts (more or less) on the meter. If youre using a test light, it should illuminate as brightly as it would if connected hot to neutral. 2. Your box may be fed with Armored Cable, which is still referred to generically as "BX" in some parts of the country. The old BX, even though it has a steel jacket, is not a suitable equipment ground and using it as such is a fire hazard. The newer Armored Cable is a suitable equipment ground. To determine what you have, you must pull a cable out of its connector, possibly remove the red anti-short bushing and look for a real thin strip (about 1/16") of aluminum run inside the armor with the conductors. If this strip is present, you have the newer type AC cable and can consider it to be grounded. You can perform the test in note 1 to be sure. 3. If you find any bare or green wires in the box, they may be an equipment ground. These wires should be tested to verify that they actually are equipment grounds. 4. The following cord and plug connected equipment is required to be grounded (2005 NEC 250.114(3)), unless protected by a system of double insulation: A. Refrigerators, freezers, air-conditioners. B. Clothes-washing, clothes drying, dishwashing machines; kitchen waste disposers; information technology equipment (your computer); sump pumps and electrical aquarium equipment C. Hand-held motor-operated tools, stationary and fixed motor-operated tools, light industrial motor-operated tools D. Motor-operated appliances of the following types: hedge clippers, lawn mowers, snow blowers, and wet scrubbers. E. Portable handlamps.

My husband likes the flats too...but I resigned to making all bread products once school was out. Was directed to a recipe when I asked at the Cooking Forum..and made it a second time yesterday. I now make my own. Yesterday was wheat bread thins and a loaf of sandwich bread ..today is english muffins and hot dog buns.