Well, I will comment on my own query as no one responded. I ended up making this recipe for Spiced Blueberries from "Food in Jars" blog, and it is very tasty! I did a couple of pints with fresh berries, and filled out the last pint with frozen berries. After I open the pint made with frozen berries, I will try to remember to report back here for some feedback on the use of frozen berries in this particular recipe. This compote or conserve or whatever would complement Thanksgiving dinner quite nicely. Here's the link: Spiced Blueberries

You'll probably increase the size more by pruning now than thinning berries later. Cut out all the low, weak wood and some of the smaller upper wood. Then if needed shorten the remaining small wood so that there are less flower clusters on each branch. You want to reduce the number of flower clusters by at least 50%, maybe even two thirds. This will result in larger, sweeter berries.

Ignore the fact they have fruit. Hollies, cotoneaster, mahonias, beautyberry and various other common landscaping shrubs produce fruit as well - often one of their major features - and are frequently used in foundation plantings. Why should blueberries be different just because their fruit is edible? As long as your soil suits their needs, there is nothing more complicated about growing blueberries than any other sort of berried shrub. It makes a difference what kind you choose. Rabbiteye type are not well suited to colder winter climates nor are southern highbush types. But low bush (wild types), northern highbush and half highs all do very well under the right soil conditions, One variety in particular to consider is 'Toro', a northern highbush blueberry that is a very productive plant with large, very juicy and sweet berries. It makes a medium sized, mounded shrub 4-5' tall and 3-4' wide without pruning, is sometimes used as a hedge and gets gorgeous red and burgundy colored fall foliage. It is often referred to as the "most beautiful blueberry" and more than one site calls it out as "perfect for mixed shrub borders" and a "great fruiting shrub to combine with rhododendrons and azaleas". Sounds like a good foundation shrub to me!! While I prefer foundation plantings to be more evergreen than not, broadleaved evergreens suited to a zone 5 are limited. But if deciduous shrubs are to be included as foundation plantings, there is no reason to dismiss a blueberry as part of that mix. I have included them in my designs for clients for just that reason - sometimes as part of the foundation plantings; sometimes as part of mixed shrub border. While technically self fertile, you will get bigger and heavier crops of berries if you plant a second variety. I might toss in something a little more unusual for this, like 'Pink Lemonade' or 'Pink Popcorn' - both make great foundation shrubs as well and will offer orange and red fall color. And the big bonus is that you will be able to harvest lots of extremely tasty berries from your front yard!!

What is your (unamended) soil pH now? It becomes increasingly difficult to acidify soil the higher the pH is to begin with and it will only be a temporary fix. The soil will sooner or later (usually sooner) return to the existing pH...that is it's nature. The only effective method to home gardeners to lower soil pH is by using agricultural sulfur. And you will need to do so periodically. Epsom salts will do bupkus and table vinegar is too dilute and will dissipate too fast to be effective, although it can be helpful in altering/lowering the pH of irrigation water. And plant parts - like pine needles - will have no appreciable effect. By the time they dry and fall off the tree, they are pretty much pH neutral. If soil alkalinity is an issue, it is best to grow blueberries or other acid loving plants in containers or raised beds, where the soil media can be customized to their needs.