The term "fungus" can be misleading. This is more of a catch-all term for disease. Mushrooms are not indicative of turf disease per-se. When I said moisture, I was referring more to overnight damp conditions, heavy dew, humid nights etc. These things combined with free Nitrogen and poor draining root-zones can lead to many diseases. The only way to absoluteley prevent these diseases is applying a foliar spray of systemic fungicide containing chlorothalonil. I'm sorry to say this is labor-intensive and pricey. These disease controls like Daconil must be applied every 14 days from the beginning of June through October without exception. Add Pythium into the mix and you really have a problem. Since you state it is a re-occurring problem, I will assume that it re-occurrs in the same areas every summer. If this is the case, it may be Pythium Root Dysfunction which is a by-product of un-checked Pythium Blight. Again, I'm not sure if Tru-Green or Chem-Lawn can even spray for Pythium. If they do, it's probably going to be prohibatively expensive. There is no "green-friendly" solution to these problems, so don't waste your time with Ed Begley Jr. type solutions. If you do not want this problem next season, Core Aerify your turf soon. Rake the plugs off of the turf and fill the holes (by topdressing) with sand. Start applying Daconil every 14 days at 4 ounces per 1000 sq. feet. Wait one week and get on a 14 day schedule with Bayer Aliette for the Pythium. (also 4ounces). It won't cure the Pythium you have (if that's what it is) but it will prevent it from spreading. In the spring your turf will recover, but you must start the spray program in June. Alot of work and alot of money I know, but if you truly want a perfect lawn.......

I think you are about right on the fertilizer, so cut back some on watering. You will know if you are giving the bamboo too little water if the leaves start curling inward on themselves along their length and look like little tubes starting to form. This is their way to conserve water when they are getting dry. In any case, your bamboo does not have a disease nor is it in any danger of croaking!

Hi. No either my PC at home or my laptop at work. Sometimes I cannot sign in at the end of a thread if I want to add a comment. I have to go back to the screen where the titles of the threads are listed. Just now, I had no problem. This happens at home and at work. I use Mozilla at home but at work I have to use IE. Oh well, it's a nuisance.

If yellowing or otherwise damaged leafs are caused by pests a close inspection should reveal the pest, and then you can choose your treatment. While some pests can be tiny, if they are numerous enough to cause your plant visible harm, you should be able to find them. Otherwise, I think your potting soil and/or overwatering are likely to blame - in some quick searches I can only find fertilizer made by milorganite but perhaps they make soil too - in any case, it is difficult to get watering right, especially indoors in non-greenhouse environments, with most bagged soils. It sounds like you've rejected this as a cause, so perhaps I'm wrong. If your tap water has a high TDS ("is hard"), this combined with water retentive soil could easily cause what you are describing. A "faster" soil helps reduce the impact of hard water by making it much easier to flush the salts (hardness) down the drain. Obtain your local water quality report (often available online) and see what it says, and/or buy a cheap EC/TDS meter (<$20) and see what it says. Or, buy gallons of distilled water, use it exclusively for a few weeks, and observe new growth carefully. Even if this fixes it - it would point to an issue with your soil as much as your water.