YOUR INSPECTOR IS CORRECT SANITARY TEE: Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) prohibit installing a sanitary Tee on a horizontal line with the side opening going horizontal or vertical. Ref: IRC-3005.1 & UPC 706 2" RISER: Under the UPC a laundry sink is rated at 2DFUÂs and a 1-1/2" vertical line is rated at 2DFUÂs however; there is an exception in the code that states NO SINKS, URINALS OR DISHWASHERS..LAVS ARE OK. Under the UPC the maximum allowable length of a 1-1/2" waste arm is 3Â 6" measured from the trap weir to the vent opening. Ref: UPC table T10-1

I have a lovely late 19th century English D-end* mahogany table, but our two sons, ages 19 and 20, live and farm with us, and we use the table daily, not just on special occasions, so I too have to protect my real antique table from hoi polloi : ) . Unlike Lady Grantham, I don't have any household staff, so all the care and upkeep is down to me. Plus I like the look of a tablecloth, and lately favor colorful block print fabrics. * it can be converted from one large oblong table into a smaller rectangular table and one small round table.

I have Fukai ana Fukuzumi. A smidge rootbound but when I look under the rootball in the middle....I have a few circulars inside the canopy. To be expected I suppose when it's lived in a pot up to 7G size. I don't plan to bonsai this but it will be grown in native soil..... Here posting on the Bonsai forum as I suspect many more here are more familiar with JWP-JBP roots. What time of year would you say is best to do root correction. Full Dormant Middle of Winter of more like right about when it's about to break dormany in late February. If if I do root correction, I should *AIM* to really touch 1/4 of the plant or the like since there is some fugi relationship to it. By coming out the circulars in the middle of the plant, there is a possibilty a good amount of the potting medium might come off. It's still fairly -loose- within the current rootball I have received. Advice. Don't want to shock it to death is the obvious ask

- Column: I would be curious to know if there was room to fit an electrical box in a post without compromising the intergrity. A switch location that must be near there could go in the cabinet side or on front of the pony wall, if all else fails. Knowing what the switch is for helps to place it. The bottom drywall flares out, the reason needs to be known. I would not encase with wood as it won't match the clean wall or soffit above. At worst case, another layer of drywall across the entire face of soffit to align plumb, or furr out as needed for a straight wall. Depending on the rest of the space up the steps, a wider column (10" or so) might be appropriate and also fit a gang of switches - Backsplash: remove those, keep only the wall behind the stove. - Pass-through gap: Just a finishing problem. Using a J-bead or zip bead for a clean line on the filler piece. - Kitchen soffits: Appears were not coordinated with cabinet depth, and quite large gaps underneath. Not sure if you have a cornice/crown going on cabinets.