I'm still a bit confused I guess about your original question. So let me just tell you what I know. You never really have to 'de-gloss' anything if you are going 'up' in sheen. In other words, you can go from flat to egg to satin to semi to gloss, in that order. You cannot go the other way, period. If you are worried about adhesion you can go one of two ways. Sand lightly with 220 grit across the surface just to 'break the face' of the old coating or you can do what I do and use Gripper Primer. Gripper(sold at Home Depot)literally sticks to everything and there would be no need to worry about adhesion, ever(it even sticks to formica, ceramic tile, and glass!!)Any paint job is ALWAYS about proper prep, painting is the easy part. As far as color variations in specific room, I always reccomend to take the color swatch into the actual room being painted, with the lighting in that room giving you your outcome. Always paint two coats on anything, mainly for performance, warranty, and color consistancy. I can tell you from experience, it will tell you right on (anybody's) can, plus on warranty claims; you must have at least two coats. I am not entirely sure I helped you, but if you have further questions, please ask. I'll do my best to respond asap.

Yes...primers MAIN job is for... #1) ADHESION of the new topcoats. #2) HOLDOUT of a topcoats binder-resins. This keeps the paints' "sheen developement" ON TOP of the primer, instead of being unevenly drawn into the substrate. #3) It CAN help a paints' "coverage"....BUT...if you're applying a topcoat of paint too thinly, this is a moot point. >>> Many people still unknowingly push paint too thin, and/or not having enough on the roller. Then they blame the PAINT for not "covering"... Yes...for the BEST adhesion, sheen-eveness, and durability of your new paint... Wash, Prime, and 2-coat your paint. Anything less is possibly compromising your end result... Faron

Thanks for the compliment, Faron! I'm glad there was an easy answer on the forum, because I sure couldn't find one when I searched! The bathroom is done! I finished it today! Tomorrow, I'll re-hang the towel racks and the shower curtain and put up the outlet covers and switchplate. Two more days, and we'll be able to take a shower in there!' I decided to go with white instead of a beachy water color or a light pebbly color --but of course, I had to spend some time priming over those because I painted big ol' swatches of those on the walls to see what it would look like. It's a small bathroom and those colors made it look smaller and darker. White, with accents of that beachy water color (hey, I have a quart of it and cannot use it in my classroom!) is--to quote baby bear--"just right!" Glad the email works. Cyberspace is such a mystery to me, but I do love it! Be well!!! Sooz

More of an issue is the "raised-profile" the hand-prints will show!! Ideally...you'll "feather-sand" the edges of each print. Tedious....YES. Important?? Also...YES. I'd use a ~100-grit sanding sponge, then remove ALL traces of dust, then prime everything evenly. Lastly...your 2 coats of new paint! Id use a better stain-blocker than Kilz! Grab Zinssers' 123, or C2-One (much harder to find!), or...Gliddens' Gripper primer @ HD. Faron