bagsprc - I think the HH60 is the engine serial number, not the tiller number. But, no matter. Try this: Lift up the flat-tire side of the tiller and set a concrete block under it, so that the flat tire is held off the ground. Take one of those load-securing straps that has a ratchet mechanism to tighten it down, and place the strap around the tire; tighten the hell out of it, so that the bead of the tire is squished out against the wheel. (If you don't have such a strap, try a rope as farmerboybill suggested - however, it's hard to pull the rope tight enough.) Using a compressor or a portable air tank, put air into the tire; the object here is for air pressure to force the tire beads against the wheel tight enough to seal. Sometimes it helps to remove the core from the valve stem, in which case you have to put a simple nozzle on your air hose - if you do it this way, you'll lose some air while you reinsert the core, but the beads should hold. If you are able to seat the beads and the tire holds air, then you're good to go. If you seat the beads but the tire looses air, then try putting Slime into it, rotate the tire a number of times, and air it up again. HOWEVER, if you can't get the beads to seat, you've got 3 options; turn the tiller over on its side and see if you can insert a tube with the wheel still on the tiller, or remove the wheel and install a tube OR load the tiller up and take it to a tire repair shop. At this point, I personally would head for the tire shop. Good luck removing the wheel - it's probably going to be quite a job. Punch the pin out, and the wheel is ready to slip off the axle - but it won't. It's probably rusted in place. Try P-Blaster, tap on the wheel with a hammer, spray it again, let it soak overnight, tap it some more - work it, work it, work it. If you've got a torch, try heat. Good luck. If you do ever get it off, put anti-seize on the axle before you reinstall it. If you get the wheel off, put a tube in the tire.

I've used the product listed below to remove old silicone caulk from shower doors. It works! If the duct tape adhesive has already reacted with the finish on the floor there may not be any way to prevent damage to the finish. Spray the tape with the cleaner, let it soak overnight and then use a plastic spatula or credit card to gently pry the tape off. You may have to do more than one treatment. I believe you can find the cleaner at Home Depot or Ace stores. Here is a link that might be useful: cleaner

Agree. If they are installed on top of floating floor that is incorrect. And when you install the new floor any undercuts you need to do can be done with a jamb saw. They come electric and manual in the states and there HAS to be something similar in Canada. You shouldn't need to cut the toe kick, except perhaps at outside corners. You'll lay laminate up to the toe kick, keeping an expansion gap of course , and then cover expansion gap with quarter round or base shoe. Or pull off the toe kick and reinstall after new flooring laid. But get any cabinets that are on a floating floor reinstalled.

Get a REAL wallpaper-stripper! * Roll/brush on a couple coats about 20 minutes apart. * Here's the TRICK..... * Get some light (half-mil) painters-plastic. Press it on the wall. * The idea here is to keep the stripper from drying-out, by using the plastic film!! It's the same reason you wrap up Meatloaf in Saran-wrap! * Leave it on for a couple hours....watch a Football or Baseball game :-) * Then, pull some plastic back, & start scraping. Consider getting one of those BBQ Grill scrubbers with the handle & open scrubby-head. This will help you chew-thru the paste. * Now.....rinse, rinse, & rinse again! * Then apply a couple coats of Gardz.! Faron