It is my understanding that any microfiber cloth will accomplish the same thing by drawing any substance into the fiber of the towel and holding it. The microfiber cloths with the antibacterial agent (the Antibac agent) does NOT disinfect the surface (countertop) you are cleaning. The Antibac agent is only a cloth âÂÂself-purifierâ for the dirt/bacteria the cloth picked up and trapped. (See the link below - that's where I got the information.) I would like to see the raw chicken juice on the counter test from the video done not only using the ecloth, but also a plain ordinary microfiber cloth and water, a cotton cloth and plain water, as well as hot soapy dish water, a sanitizing solution recommended by the USDA of 1 quart water + 1 t. bleach, or even a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water. I suspect they will all remove the meat juice protein the same way the ecloth did. Personally, even though I have a good selection of microfiber cloths (both run-of-the-mill and with the antibacterial agent) and do occasionally use them, I have a tactile problem with the "feel" of them on my hands and prefer a cotton cloth. Another thing that annoys me, once a microfiber cloth gets dirty (like when hubby details the car), they are nearly impossible to get clean looking again. I also understand microfiber towels are not all that environmental, if that is a concern. Cotton cloths will decompose quickly. It may take hundreds of years for a microfiber cloth to decompose. One GOOD thing about microfiber towels..... If you want to cut down on bath towels in the laundry, one small 18-inch microfiber towel is all you need to dry off after a shower/bath/swimming, and it will quickly air-dry for reuse. If it has the antibacterial agent in it, it will also kill any bacteria remaining on the fibers. So buy a bundle of them in the car care section of the store and take a few microfiber towels to the beach instead of those giant beach towels. They are also great when camping/hiking. Gather more information until you can make a good determination. -Grainlady Here is a link that might be useful: Norwec Microfiber Cloths

MUCH MUCH NICER! Still a few things that could be improved tho... 1) Those windows in the two upstairs closets (for bedrooms 2 and 3) won't work well. While you do need windows over the porch for the exterior facade to look right, you don't want them on a closet wall where you will want to hang things! Wondering if there might be some way to use the space with windows for bathroom space instead and move the closets to interior spaces. Maybe bedroom 3 could have a reach-in closet like bedroom 4 and the closet for bedroom 2 could move to where its bathroom is currently. Then both bathrooms could be back to back in the space between bedrooms 2 and 3. It's a great idea to have a full bath downstairs so that, if you ever have someone unable to climb stairs (temporarily or permanently) the study could easily become a bedroom for them and they'd have a full bath to use. I rather like the exterior door for the downstairs bathroom. Easy to run in/out and not track mud into the house! Sure the garage door is not that much further around but when a kid's gotta go, they WILL take the route that they perceive to be shortest. NOT having a door directly into the bathroom from outside makes it more likely, I think, that they'll decide to come in thru the patio doors cut thru the living room. And, I wouldn't worry about someone trying to come in while you're showering. You're going to be out in the country and that door is well hidden from the driveway. So the only folks who'll ever know it is there will be family members. Having one of them try to open the exterior door while you're showering is no different than family members possibly walking in on one another via an interior door. Not something to freak out about. I do think you should flip that downstairs bath tho so that you don't have a view directly into the bathroom from next to the fridge. I know that would put the plumbing into the wall shared with the study which isn't the greatest but you can greatly reduce the sounds of flushing water by using cast iron drain pipes so I don't really think that would be a huge problem. I don't like that there are no windows in the master bath upstairs and I also think it would be better to move the laundry a bit further away from the master bedroom. Wonder if you could move the laundry down to where the toilet and shower are and make the masterbath more squarish? If the vanities were then put on an interior wall, maybe there would be room for at least one window in the masterbath. I don't know about you but when I'm getting ready in the mornings, I really like having natural light in the bathroom. It helps me wake up! Plus, its easier to get one's makeup looking right and make sure one's socks actually MATCH under natural light. A dark blue sock and a black sock can look identical under artificial light - especially when you're half asleep anyway. LOL! You may get some negative feedback about the dogleg-shaped island in the kitchen. There are folks on this forum who think that that particular island shape is overdone. I like it however. It gives you a nice large work surface that is easily accessible on the kitchen side. And the bar seating on the back side allows for conversation between folks sitting there...unlike a long straight island that forces everyone to sit in a row like birds on a telephone wire. I love the way the staircase is open to the dining room. That is going to make that space feel very spacious. If you hang a pretty chandelier in the dining room, you'll get to see it from the staircase as you descend and maybe even be able to glimpse it from upstairs. I don't like that the laundry is right across from the stairs from the dining room tho...especially since the design shows an open railing between laundry room and staircase. If the door to the laundry room is left open, you would be able to stand downstairs in the dining room and look up and see into the laundry room. And, if you're doing laundry and leave the laundry room doors open while you have dinner, you'll be able to hear the washer and dryer running from the dining room. So...Another reason to move the laundry room down closer to the bonus room. Overall tho, this is a terrific design. Simple, classic, space efficient, and organized. I'm so glad you and NickE found each other on this forum. You're on your way to a lovely home and NickE is probably thrilled to have a chance to create a real life design for his architectural portfolio and see it actually get built! I doubt that there are that many architectural students who can show potential employers pictures of a house they designed and the client actually built. Keep us posted on revisions and I can't wait to see you start posting pics on the monthly "How is your build going?" thread.

The drain line from the dishwasher is definitely required to have a high loop, however, in this instance the high loop may be in the cabinet directly behind the dishwasher where you cannot see it. Normally when connecting a dishwasher to a drain system that has a disposal, the dishwasher drain line is connected to the disposal dishwasher inlet port, which is the short pipe stubbed out of the side of the disposal directly above the disposal outlet port. (There is a knockout cap inside that port to prevent water from leaking out when a dishwasher is not connected there. When connecting a dishwasher drain to the disposal inlet port the installer has to take a screwdriver and punch the knockout cap out to open the port before attaching the drain line). In your case the plumber elected to connect the dishwasher drain line to a tailpiece with a dishwasher inlet port. Normally that type of tailpiece would only be used to connect the dishwasher when there is no disposl, but technically speaking, it is still an approved indirect waste connection so that would pass inspection. In this instance they used the mfg supplied 1/4 bend on the disposal and connected it into a conventional "Center Waste Kit", which is also technically okay, but the problem is that as the discharge from the disposal goes through the black 1/4 bend, then through the white 1/4bend on the waste kit arm, then on to the baffled tee in the center the velocity of flow from the disposal is slowed and it could lead to more frequent clogs in the baffled tee. The preferred configuration would be to connect the dishwasher drain line to the disposal inlet port, the remove the black 1/4 bend that comes with the disposal and install a "Disposal type center waste kit". In a disposal type kit one horizontal arm has a straight tube that has a flange which will connect directly to the disposal port, while the other arm has the 1/4" bend to connect to the opposite sink. The only thing I can see in that photo that would not pass code is the tailpiece extension attached between the P-trap and the Trap adapter at the wall. That is prohibited. Code only allows one slip joint on the output side of the trap weir.(REF: IRC-3201.1 & UPC-1003.2). The proper method is to extend the pipe from the wall and put the trap adapter where it will connect directly to the trap.

Do it if you can! The other posts bring up great points & if all of that checks out to your satisfaction I'd buy it. I can't tell you the # of times we talked about doing the same thing on various properties. It happened in our last house (WOW do I wish we'd bought the lot next door - they moved in a Home Depot Kit house - awful, but better than a trailer, I guess + they were very nice neighbors). It also happened at our lake house - we were offered the house next door but were short on money at the time & couldn't justify it. We kick ourselves every time we go, wishing we'd found a way to do it. Now, we might get the chance to purchase the 15 acres directly behind us. They bought it several years ago & never built. He's tired of keeping it up and told my DH they might sell & asked if we'd be interested. Funny, he was really bummed out when he found out that we bought our house last December. He never knew it was for sale & would have bought it. I'm hoping it won't be totally out of reach $$$$-wise, but we're gonna try to do what we can to give it a shot. We like the buffer zone. After that Home Depot kit house thing that built about 5 feet from our last property line, we learned our lesson - haha! Good luck!