Zebrawood is an odd choice for an end grain top as most of the striking linear beauty of the grain of the wood will be lost. Most people would have done an edgegrain or plank top to showcase the dramatic grain. End grain is used because it "self heals" from the cuts from being actively used as a chopping block.

Mineral oil is the only safe finish for an end grain top that will be used to cut on. There is no food safe finish for an end grain top that will produce "lighter" results than plain mineral oil. If you do not plan to use the top to cut on, you can do a water based acrylic, but you would have to be careful that no one cuts on it.

Thanks holly.

This is going to be a 'working' block \ counter top. (My wife thought I purchased it because it looked nice). We are doing 3" end pieces so that we will get a little of the linear effect.

The block should also discourage random house guests from using the soapstone on the outer counters when cutting.

We stopped by a couple wood working shops around town, and the consensus agrees with you. Mineral oil from the laxative section of the pharmacy is the way to go.

Thanks again

You can use salad bowl finish such as made by General Finished and sold by Rockler.com. It is a food-safe finish. That's what I did. You'll have to test for darkening.

See thread below.

Billy

Here is a link that might be useful: Gardenweb Thread on Butcherblock Finishes

It was a Rockler employee with 30+ years of working with butcher blocks that directed me to the "laxative aisle."

My wife now realizes that the block is more than 'art'. She accepts it will never be the color she wants and has embraced the darkness.

One more question? Bee's wax. My buddy at Rockler said 'no' but we are in a very dry climate here in CO.

I purchased a combination beeswax/mineral oil product from a person on e-bay (and loved the product) for my Brazilian Cherry blocks (I had one on either side of my range).

addressing the bee's wax ?...
I have a walnut end grain BB and also live in a dry area. I oil it down about once a month and let it sit over night then in the AM use some wax to sort of seal it. Cant tell if the oil alone would last as long as w/o the wax.

the zebrawood sounds great - post a pic later please!

I did the DIY mineral oil / beeswax treatment on my Boos island (maple, end grain). It works very well.

Mineral oil needs to be updated about every 2 to 3 weeks. The beeswax combo lasts about 6 months with me oiling it lightly when needed (like after cleaning a big spill or such).

Even a year later, water will still bead in spots I did not re-treat yet. I'm going to give my soapstone counters the same treatment and then just get on a schedule to do the whole kitchen twice a year

Plus it makes the kitchen smell like honey for a few days :)

I just built a 5" thick walnut end-grain butcher block for a client. I used plain mineral oil. I let it soak in a couple of times. I use bees wax on many of my furniture finishes but think it would be weird to cut and eat food on. I'm sure it's alright but I would just use the oil. Make sure it's pure bees wax if you do use it many have other chemicals in them. Also for my own use I wouldn't use anything but maple. It's what's been used forever and it is just a clean wood. All wood darkens with a finish on it especially oil and especiall end gain.
John

maybe in my online shop available oil you mean.
if interested please visit my online shop at "e-butchersblock.bugs3.com"

Here is a link that might be useful: Shop Butchers block

Ignore the SPAMMER!!!!

I use coconut oil on my butcher block island. It smells delish and doesn't go rancid. (and the smell is gone within 24 hours, so its a short-lived pleasure). I rub a little on every few weeks or so.

Well, since you also have soapstone, get the Clapham's salad bowl finish. You can use one product for both. You can get it through Amazon.com or Williams-Sonoma. I use it on my soapstone counter and my giant Boos block and I love the results.