I still love this one, weird as it is (the spray hose lies atop the gooseneck, and the neck itself has a sort of channel (for lack of a better word) on or in which the hose rests and blends in like a chameleon. When you want to use the hose you just pull it down from the nozzle clip (again, for lack of the proper word) and you're free to roam around the sink with it. When you're done, you just place it back over the neck and clip snap it back into place at the nozzle area (the nozzle is part of the hose so hose and faucet are one in the same). Sounds crazy but I've used the floor model of the bridge style deck-mounted 10" one and it was FUN to use and looked and felt very high-quality. It's solid stainless steel and made of replaceable parts. I.e. if you got tired of the hose version you could just replace the gooseneck with a standard gooseneck. The polished stainless steel looks like a cross between polished chrome and polished nickel because it's warmer than chrome (not so blue) but not as yellow as nickel. Not sure I'll get it though cause I want a wall-mounted one and I think the wall-mounted sizes are either too big or too small for my space. :( We'll see... See below for link to the 10" (19" high in total) version of the single lever style. They also have the shorter 8" version (14 3/4" high) and they also have the traditional deck-mounted bridge style in a couple of sizes as well as the wall ones and mono blocks (click on Steam Valve Originals once in there to see everything). They have really beautiful levers/wheels including both white and black porcelain. Here is a link that might be useful: JACLO Steam Valve single lever faucet

Oh I have thoughts!!! We put ours in the middle, and guess what? Most people grab the cabinet by the top corner. Ugh. After they were in, I thought, that should have been up in the corner. Here is a picture: (the knobs are crystal, they don't look it in this photo, but you can see them)

Good question! There are SO many things to think about, that really by the end sometimes I think many of us end up aware of so many details...way more than the average person, even your average contractor...etc. I just measured my pullouts. As cyycdm stated, my drawers are only 22" long, but DH installed them (we did most of the kitchen DIY), and he placed them further back (than you see in her photo). They are full extension, so you can still access every square inch, but being a bit further back allows for extra stuffing overflow of bags, etc on shelves! LOL My frameless doors don't completely clear the sides of the cabinet frame, so the carpenter had to supply 1" bumpers for the side where the door is attached, so the drawer can clear the door, I'm sure you need the same thing, only in framed, you will need those bumpers on both sides, so a loss of 2" there. My slides only take up 1/4", so there is a total of 1 1/2" wasted space, my pullouts are 15 1/2" wide for an 18" pantry. Believe it or not these had to be built 3 times before they fit...no wonder my kitchen company went bankrupt (the day my new granite was to be installed, BTW) I would question why so much space needs to be lost, that seems wasteful to me.

The thing about a pullout pantry is that there's restricted access to the middle. I think 12"-15" is ideal, though 18" isn't out of the question. It might mean moving this or that to get the other thing, but can be done. That's assuming that you can access the pantry from both sides. 18" is definitely the limit if you can only get in from one side. Looked at the other way, 18" is about the narrowest cabinet that's comfortable to get into with your arm extended to the back. If you go with the pullout, it might make sense to do a full height one, or a pullout on top as well as bottom. Roll out trays are much easier to use, especially for lowers, than pullouts because you can get into them from above rather than only from the side. What they have better than drawers for a pantry is the ability to see in over short sides, and the ability to see all the trays in the cupboard at once rather than having to remember which one has what in it. If I were in your situation, I'd check to see if there were any difference in the size of the tray between the pullout and roll out. I have a feeling (which I'm assuming was created by something I learned along the way) that there might be more tray space in the pullout. If not, then it's not a matter of how much you can store but how easily you can get at it. So, if you have roll out trays, where does the door go? Do you have a 90" hinge? Most Euro style hinges are 90 degrees. Which means that the door is blocking on side of the trays. Perhaps you even have a wall there? I have 170 degree hinges, but those are big and can also can interfere with what's inside, which could be a problem in a narrow pantry. But even with a 90 degree door, you can get in from the top. Plus, it's easier to get into the pantry to retrieve something that slipped over the side. With the pullout pantry, you might want to get a trigger gripper, which can be helpful. Just remembered what might tilt it decisively to the rollouts: You can put more roll out shelves in a pantry than you can trays on a pullout. Because all the trays on a pullout come out at once, you need air space between them to get stuff in and out. With roll outs, you can have trays that are one can high, or one box of X high, and have only an inch margin to the next tray up. In that way, you can fit a lot more in the same cupboard.