The fact is that there is a code requirement that no point on any kitchen counter be further than 2' from an electrical outlet and that this requirement is in place for home safety and not because of the chintziness of appliance manufacturers shouldn't even be up for discussion. Electrical code has mandated that for at least the past 20 years or longer in order to make sure that no one sets their house on fire using an extension cord that isn't rated for the task. An extension cord is also more than just a potential fire hazard. It creates a trip hazard and burn hazard by draping said cord all around the room and then plugging in heating appliances into it. Yes, there are many older homes that are not up to the modern standard and you have to make do as best you can. But most people will skim read and will only take in "an extension cord is OK" and go out an buy a cheap $1 Chinese 16 gauge one instead of a $25 12 gauge one like they should. And then they'll drape it across the aisle and use that toaster oven for 4 hours cooking for Thanksgiving. All of which is a BAD idea. Getting a new GFI outlet run to the kitchen shouldn't cost more than a couple of hundred dollars. And that is cheaper than the deductible on your home owner's insurance which is the standard that I've long used when a project impacts home safety.

Heat rises, so the most important clearance will be on top of the toaster oven. I think I'd look at doing something similar to a heat shield that you use next to a built in oven. Heat shields work because they are made of material more conductive of heat than the surounding cabinet and they have a tiny air space with which to dissapate that heat. So, I think that a good 6 inches of clearance above and then use a couple of small spacer blocks to attach a stainless steel sheet to the inside of the top cabinet so that it has a bit of an air space between the stainless sheet and the cabinet. You can always use a bit of trim to hide the gap between the stainless and the cabinet. To keep things looking cohesive, I'd probably line the rest of the cabinet with stainless sheeting as well. I'd check with the oven manufacturer to find out what clearances they recommend first before doing any of the above.

Dianalo, I originally thought of doing that and building shelves/cabs for the TO and MW against the side of the fridge, but that's what my KD warned me against as she felt it would leave very little backsplash visible and the overall look would be cramped. After her sketching it out on the paper plan (a copy of the one I posted above), I see her point... Just doesn't seem like it would be a very attractive solution. But it is hard coming up with alternatives! Also, I use my TO a lot and will keep using it after the kitchen is redone, since my new oven will be 36" and I don't want to crank that big thing up if I can use the TO instead. Hence the need to find space for both TO and MW. Melissastar, I love your solution and wish I could borrow it! Bit I have four kiddos and the youngest are a young toddler and a baby, so a bit too risky. My toddler aleady tries to reach the MW and push buttons whenever he can, so it will need to stay at or above counter height for sure. Maruha, my pic doesn't show this but there is a door on the right hand wall just past the window. If I slide the sink under the window, anyone standing there will be in the way of the door swing, and as the door leads to the play set in our yard it is used pretty frequently. So I put the sink to the left of the window to allow for simultaneous use of doorway + sink. Marcydc, can you show me a pic of your micro drawer? Is it hard to lift out hot dinner plates, for example? I've never seen one in action so have a hard time understanding how it works in everyday usage. That might be a good solution? Are there particular brands, and which one do you have/like? Thanks so much and kee the ideas coming! I love it! Maybe we could find a way to squeeze them in along the side walls perhaps.... I appreciate all your suggestions!

It's funny, but with the exception of my KA mixer (covered), we never had a toaster or any other appliance on the counter full-time. They were always stored in one of the base cabinets...about all those old ones were useful for. With the remodel, I planned a place for it in the pantry on a "small appliance" shelf. Well, now my DH & kids like having the toaster sitting out all the time for "ease of use". It's not like they use the toaster all the time, maybe 3 or 4 times a week, tops! But my DH has asked if I mind having it out all the time...so I gave in on it b/c (1) we have so much counter space now, (2) the location is not in the primary prep or cooking zones, (3) the location happens to be next to one of the few outlets we have in the BS (although I do unplug it when not in use for safety reasons), (4) the location is near where I was already storing the butter & PB and it's next to the refrigerator (jam), and (5) it's a SS toaster w/black trim that actually doesn't look bad at all & goes w/my kitchen. I moved the bread drawer next to it (so glad now I didn't pay the extra $300 for a "bread drawer insert" from the cabinet company at the old location!) However, if you don't like having things out on the counter...and many people don't, at least in the initial glow of a new kitchen (and some even after)...I would plan for something like others have mentioned or it will end up wherever others put it...whether you like it or not! How often do you use it? Do you have a location for your small appliances (maybe a lazy/super susan or pantry) where you might be able to store toaster supplies? If not, pick a location and figure out how to fit it in that area the way you like it...so far it sounds like a drawer under your use location is the best idea...open drawer, put on counter, use, let cool, clean crumbs, put back in drawer. Crumbs will be an issue! I seem to remember someone here having a pullout shelf w/in a hutch or appliance garage (or something) at counter level that allowed them to pull out and use, in this case IIRC, a bag sealer and then they pushed it back in and closed the door when done. If you went this route, I'd suggest either a tambour/garage door or doors that open and then can be pushed inside the cabinet (like TV cabinets) so the doors are not in the way.