I apologize: that doesn't really answer your question: Depends: where you live~ cut outs ~ edging ~ square feet ~ I would say $85.00 sf out the door price with demo, cut out sink & stove : material fab and install for the Costal. and $65-$70 per sf out the door for Crema Bordeaux. We charge $3 per sf for demo (you can do that yourself!) tell them AFTER BID $1 per sf for sealing stone (EASY to do yourself!) then you know done correctly! State that day the day fabrication or at signing and don't pay for sealing $21.00 sf for Fabrication with a choice of free edging: Demi bullnose: bullnose: standard: ease: or beveled edge.(ogee and waterfalls extra + 2.5" built up edge) $12.00 sf for complete install $275.00 for undermount sink cut out: free SS sink: 70/30 or 60/40 or 50/50 18 gauge. $175 for stove: This just gives you an idea: why: and how: Trust me: I am not advertising: We use to charge consistantly to each customer! NOT ANYMORE: Economy changed about one year ago. People come in with 6 bids in their hands! LOL! The word Consistant PRICING in Dallas Texas Is GONE! Everything is Negotable here. Now up North: I have seen some HIGH prices: Also: have to put into consideration: FREIGHT charges! These slabs come on big tankers across the sea!!!!! $$$$$ And based on where you live: it cost money to ship. Gas was high for over a year! Companies have gone out of business. Slab yards aren't stocking new granite! All have been hit. There is more of a demand here in Dallas for LOW installs: because there are "not" so trustworthy installer throwing out cheap bids! Driving the bids down. We have had to PICK up the PIECES now at 3 customers house: screw over by "bad" installers. 1/2 kitchen install: also kitchen installed wrong never fixed: and lady with guest vanity never installed right: including plumbing screwed up and we riped out and started over 36x22 piece! She was having a party! All of these 3 were "having parties" 2 Christmas and one July 4th. That motivated them: they never got their jobs fixed! Lady with 1/2 kitchen and no running water for 90 days! her kitchen 65 sf ended up costing her 5500$. We had to double rock her backsplash: because of the gaps the other installer left! And we had to match Portofino Gold: not easy! Also: other guy: CRAZY: got granite: they screwed up: never would come back: so he hired new guy to fix: screwed up cooktop worse and never came back: terrible seams: terrible install on the flow of Madura Gold! Then we were third company he hired! We riped it ALL OUT: started over: Maduri Gold 3cm: He was SOOO happy: perfect seams and he was almost in tears when we left! funny thing was it rained the next day on July 4th and his party got cancelled! and His wife was FREAKING OUT because granite installers RIPED out all the old Sheet Rock! So all the drama they had been through: she freaked out thinking we screwed up her walls! She calls Screaming at me: and I didn't understand her: She is screaming there are wires sticking out every where and wood showing!!! I had to laugh~ AND???: So, I quickly explained to here the Durock was much better and to chill out! Tile guy will fix! I had to laugh! My Point: Beware! Get references: go see their finished work: ask how long in business. Ect! I have people bring me 6 estimates lately! Home Depot, Lowes and Cosco: will charge high: remember they are Third party! They don't fabricate! they hire random people with their own shops and then random installers!

If you live in a damp area (is that damp soil or is it damp air; as in humid?) I would recommend against wide plank. Even with engineered hardwood, the wide planks are still "less stable" than narrow planks. And to be clear, any install with a wide plank will require adhesive. If you were planning to do a nail-in-place type of installation, you will require a glue-assist with a wide plank (anything 5" or wider). This will drive up the cost of the installation. Maple is pretty but it turns a strong yellow as it ages (it is photosensitive = turns DARKER with exposure to light). Hickory is a lovely product that is stable in sunlight but is LESS stable in the presence of moisture/humidity. As for the core, it is highly dependent on the construction of the plank and the thickness and the adhesives used, etc. If you have links to the products, feel free to add then to the thread. We will have a look at them to see how these things have been constructed. Some of us are/were flooring professionals which means we know WHERE to find these details. They are often hidden or require a very specific search term. Once we have links to the products, we can get cracking on finding out which one *might work better for your situation.

SPC is not LVP. LVP can be brittle, especially the thinner click locking mechanisms. SPC is a solid vinyl product that should perform well and having sold it for roughly 2-3 years, am unaware of any consistent problems with them. As far as finish wear on vinyl, again some of the more cost effective products are likely only finished out with a few coats of polyurethane but many of the better quality materials are finished out with polyurethane PLUS either a ceramic-bead or aluminum oxide finish which make the finish more resistant to scratches. Newer vinyl products are being referred to as "RVP" which stands for Rigid Vinyl Plank and are also well-performing products. I do not think you'll have issues with furniture denting SPC or RVP-core products - LVP, yes if it's heavy enough. Laminates are also solid materials. They are similar to vinyl in that they are not real wood (rather they are digital prints - pictures of wood) but quality products will hold up to wear-and-tear nicely. They can scratch but not easily but most laminate products do not perform as well with respect to moisture. The core underneath a laminate is fiberboard which is essentially sawdust (wood) and a few other things - wood swells with moisture and most laminates will do the same. The newer water-resistant categories will perform better with respect to moisture however they are not waterproof so if they are exposed to moisture for a prolonged period of time some swelling will occur (though most say it is marginal). Engineered is "real" wood - it is not a digital print. Big win is you get more return on your investment come resell time as you can advertise real wood when you sell the home but they will likely scratch easier and wood does not hold up to moisture quiet as nicely. Let me know if I can help in any other way.

Masonry is one of the most expensive exterior treatments used. Material can be the least expensive piece to masonry depending on location & cost of skilled masons. Installed (engineered) stone starts about $30 per square foot in CA, authentic stone is alot more as its heavier and takes more time and usually needs footings unless its been cut to a thin veneer. corners and caps are more for both material and labor and are calculated by the linear foot in addition. So what is the footage on your columns? These could be $500-1000 each or more. "plus the bases of 3 columns" could be 4 sides x 2.5' wide x 3' tall = 30sf ea x 3 = 90 sf plus 3' tall x 12 corners = 36lf of corners + 30lf of cap. The hardie installer should have a different joint above the stone w flashing and trim. a few more dollars.