Adding to the good advice given above, I'd suggest that you search the many hood discussions here and I especially recommend posts by kaseki. You will find that what you are considering is actually counterproductive to your goals. To summarize briefly: First, if you are putting cabinets over that 48" range top, read the installation manual for your rangetop. On most rangetops, cooktops and ranges, the manual will specify that bases of the upper cabinets should be at least 30 inches above the stove top. IIRC, some even specify 36". Going lower is considered a fire hazard. Thus, you really can't gain cabinet space over a 48" range/rangetop by using a smaller hood. Second, the effectiveness of ventilation hoods has as much or more to do with hood "capture area" as blower power. If you want to try to make up for poor capture, you need a huge increase in blower force. Think about using a vacuum cleaner. The stronger the blower, the more noise the system will make as you try to suck everything in -- maybe sucking pets and and small children off the floor :>) --- and a very loud roar. Same thing if you put a powerful vent fan in the ceiling. That kind of power utterly defeats your desire for a quiet hood. Third, a huge step-up in blower power means a huge step up in the need for make-up air, and that can and likely will be a major expense. Doesn't matter if your locality does not have codes that require MUA. We're talking the laws of physics here and avoiding backdrafting HVAC, water heaters, fireplaces, etc. Fourth, while a properly sized and designed hood may be larger than you seem to like, it also can be a lot quieter. Consider that there are two sources of noise in hoods: (a) the noise of the fans and their motors and (b) the air rushing through the baffles/filters and into the ducts. With a properly sized hood, the fans can run lower and slower because the hood enables the capture. Slower fans are quieter.

They make vents for ranges like this that have the motor that runs the fan outside up on the roof. Its not big - just sits in a metal roof cap thing. This pulls the air out, instead of pushing it up. When I got mine (with six burners, griddle and grill) they recommended this method due to the amount of heat all this generated. The unexpected benefit to me was that even though you still hear the significant air flow noise, the fan noise is outside so it is quieter than the alternatives. Usually I like more room on either side of the range, but with a larger range, you find there is room on top of the range to move things around, so the relatively small counter space on either side should be just fine. As for the size and the upper cabinets, I wish I had listened to them when they suggested a wider capture area in the hood. Going with a hood a little wider than the range would have been best. I'd give up the uppers to get better performance. Or perhaps another look like small open shelves that hold your oils and vinegar, etc, could work. Good luck!

I have a 36" rangetop and frequently use 4 burners, and sometime use 5. I've even used all 6! If you count having a pan of something from the ovens cooling on a burner or two, then I use 6 pretty regularly. Hey, that would be another "pro" for a cooking surface with more burners: using one or two as a cooling rack for oven items while still having other burners available for active cooking. If you choose rangetop and want that attractive 4 door look, I suggest having one wide drawer with the front made to look like two separate drawers. 24" wide drawers won't be effective for storing pots and pans. Wider is usually better.

"We have 9 foot ceilings, so they didn’t take them to the ceiling because they said it would make them tall and skinny..." Really? I call BS. Here are my cabinets to the ceiling with 9 foot ceilings. I am beyond happy that my cabs go to the ceiling, eliminating the need to dust above them. My kitchen looks larger and brighter without the dark shadows above the cabs, too. My cabs are custom so we were able to spec 46" uppers with 8" crown but you can go with 42" tall uppers and 12" crown. I asked but you didn't answer: is there a reason why you haven't considered moving the fridge to the sink wall? That would give you wider aisles and a larger island, plus more room around your range and a better meal prep flow of fridge to sink to counter to range. I mocked up how that might look. You can use your existing fridge (that saves $$) and pull the base cabs out to create 30" deep counters, which will make your full size fridge look like a counter depth model. I decreased the depth of the cabs on the opposite side of the kitchen to 12" deep for a full run of pantry cabs. You may be able to eliminate more uppers in your kitchen with the additional storage the pantry cabs provide, which means that you could make the window over the sink even wider. Here's how that might look in your kitchen. I didn't draw it up this way but your one window would become either 2 slider windows or 2 single hung windows or, as they did in the above kitchen, 3 single hung windows. I shifted the island away from the sink counter, giving you 45" aisle between counters (42" between fridge door and counter) and 42" aisles between pantry cabs and island (assuming that your kitchen is 13'/156" wide). That also gives you more room around your range so a wider range and hood would look more in scale. That said, I agree with others: an oversized hood isn't the right fit for your kitchen. I also think it's an odd choice to spend so much $$$ on a very detailed, oversized hood over a 30" range. I think it will look like you ran out of money half way through the remodel so all you could afford was a 30" range, not the 36" pro style range you had intended to get. And definitely spend the money to upgrade to drawer bases. That's a splurge that you will never regret. Ever.