How can this crown moulding problem be fixed?
ssdarb
10 years ago
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cupofkindness
10 years agojakuvall
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Crown Molding For Cosmetic Truss Uplift Fix
Comments (12)handymac, thank you for the suggestion. If it's what I think it is, I remember seeing it on This Old House's website where Tom Silva was putting up crown. He was going to nail it the normal way because the tutorial wasn't about truss uplift. But the same triangular-wedge 'cripple' could apply I think. The key, if I'm interpreting you correctly, is to nail the 'wedge' only to the ceiling and then nail the crown in the center of the wedge angling the nail up so as not to catch any of the wall. It's definitely worth a try. The only difficulty I can foresee is being able to nail that wedge into the ceiling and hoping the truss bottom (forget the term now) is right on top of - or at least overhanging a bit - the joist(?). You know, the structure at the top of the studs. Again, not sure of the term. If we don't catch that truss wood when nailing the 'wedge', which will be holding the crown, then we'd either be nailing into that joist and defeat the purpose or just nailing into ceiling drywall! I agree that those ring-shanks are the way to go for the wedge. So, perhaps that'll cover our a$$es if we don't catch wood. lsst, I've heard about that 'stretchy' caulk. Never tried it though. I think seasons and seasons of using regular caulk - that ultimately separated - kind of shied us away from anything that even had the word "caulk" in it. :( But I'll check it out again. If you have the name of the product you used, I'd really appreciate it. green-zeus, yes, that's the key to putting up crown for this purpose. Nailing it to the walls would defeat that purpose. As I said, the problem, thus far has been trying to figure out how to only nail it to the ceiling. The top nail surface on any crown doesn't leave much fudge room to nail w/o splitting the wood. But, handymac's suggestion sounds doable. At least it's worth a shot! :) I'm still curious if anyone's tried that peel-n-stick or polystyrene formed crown. Maybe I should make a separate post for that. Thanks again!...See MoreHow can I fix visible joints on long sections of crown molding?
Comments (2)I don't really see how you can oversand the wood. Just sand enough until it is smooth and then caulk it, only filling the gap and wiping away the excess caulk with a damp cloth. You could use some wood filler or something, but all fillers are brittle and will eventually crack/fall out, which is why caulk is usually a better option. Sometimes the carpenter doesn't care much where the seam falls so there is no stud behind the seam, which is why the crack in the seam reappears....See Morefixing sloped ceiling crown molding disaster
Comments (20)There are two fixes I see at this point: Hold the crown down so that it reads closer to level which will result in a gap at the ceiling and then "float" the ceiling with compound. In concert with this you can also likely back plane the crown to help "bend it" and that will help. You will likely still see it but it'll be an improvement. It is a known technique to address this issue. Your guy should know how to do it. Second option - rip it out - rip out the sheetrock and shoot the ceiling joists with a laser and level it. Sounds extreme and it is at this point but it's also your house and you should be happy. Now, I completely disagree with everyone that's saying its an old house and its a remodel. It's relatively easy to get this right if you are paying attention. It always comes down to time, price, and/or quality. As the saying goes pick two. As you are the client, you set the tone. And if the tone you set is speed or price then this is not an atypical outcome. If the tone you set is quality then frankly your GC should have shot the ceiling with a laser before he rocked and hung the cans and got a sense for how much he was out. Then told you, perhaps showed you with the laser and provided a price for leveling it down. Then you own the decision. Frankly, that's our standard operating procedure - primarily because you hired our firm and we do it once and we do it right. but also because I don't want the call and I certainly don't want you unhappy. But there are levels of contractors and it also assumes that you have sent the signals that you care about quality. If you are at them to finish and they are relatively on schedule then you are culpable as you set the tone. Is he on a bid and did you go low or push for him to catch the low bid ? Do you want it right or do you want it right now ? But if you were all about quality and paying a fair wage then it's all on him. You have to decide what you can live with it and where you are budget wise. I'd have to see the rest of the kitchen to make the determination as to the preferred course of action. But as we like to say Do it Right and Do It Once so I think you should talk with GC and come to some arrangement to at least try to remediate the problem. Heck, it's right in the kitchen and the job has his name on it. And don't be cutting any checks until you have the conversation....See Morecabinet crown molding or house crown molding?
Comments (11)ffjunk, of course it's a personal choice, but thought I should add, we have a situation similar to yours, with a pass-through window between painted cabinets, as well as a pocket door between a cabinet and a cabinet pantry. Our cabinet crown molding, and our whole house crown molding are the same heights, but different cuts, so the choice was easier for us - keep the same crown molding throughout the kitchen, though it is open concept. We are using stop blocks at the pocket door crown as the pantry is a stained along with the crown molding above it, and the cabinet adjacent is painted, along with the crown above that. The trim around the door will be painted the same as the cabinet/cabinet crown molding. Our ceilings are 9'. We are also using a stop block where the whole house crown meets the kitchen cabinetry crown - it would be very difficult to both cope and scribe the crowns to match and we prefer the stop blocks. I don't have photos as we are still in the midst of remodeling and our cabinet maker has yet to bring and install the stop blocks....See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
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