Pictures please - island/peninsula with range hood and pendants?
empet
12 years ago
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12 years agoKay M
12 years agoRelated Discussions
L+Island versus Peninsula - Please Vote
Comments (21)@colorfast - Yep, a happy dilemma - or at least an important one! Upon reflection, it is sort of interesting that once we decided to take down the wall, I had never even once considered my current U layout. Until I happened upon your thread and some others which might have actually been linked from yours. Maybe that was because it seemed so obvious I had to have an island these days? I'm not sure but accomodating 2 decent-sized walkways is about 90" in any kitchen is a lot of my total space. There are only 2 ways to make the island bigger that I can see, though please chime in if I am missing other options: 1 - Eliminate the L and put the stove or sink on the island, which minimizes bare counter space again but would allow me to extend the island to the right about 30 inches 2 - Keep the L but deepen the island so the seating part extends past the beam (my concern with that is that the island extends out of the kitchen in a way that might seem unbalanced?). I have earlier snapshots of both options, for what it is worth. Galley/island kitchen: L with big island: Overhead: It seems to me that Aliris' comment gets to the 'feel' of an island. There's just something freeing about open space. Given my partner's spontaneous comment, perhaps that appeals as much to adults as kids. I can see my cats playing stalking games with the island as well - hopefully not while we are trying to dump pasta water. As I've said, though, I've never lived with an island or open concept so this is all just my imagination and I'm sure my kitchen is going to feel a whole lot more open with the wall down and backsplash window than it does now and I can be happy with that if that's the way I need to go. Palimpsest's comment resonates with me, though, too. I am probably dating myself but I was raised in a world where children were taught manners, that they were not the center of the universe no matter how cute or clever, to not interrupt when adults were talking and were told to go away (outside) and FIND something to do. I think a lot of that was good for kids (and schools, society and adult relationships), especially given the normal/healthy narcissism of childhood thinking patterns. I've been rather flabbergasted to watch my peers parent so differently than how we were raised, though I'm sure there are exceptions. It's a pretty fascinating cultural process to analyze each generation's parenting and what it produces for society, good and bad. That being said, even in the best of situations, mistakes happen and taking safety considerations into kitchen design seems sensible to factor in. OP RULE: Everyone can weigh in on the parenting issue as long as they vote on my dilemma first. lol...See MoreCoordinating light fixture, island range hood, hardware
Comments (2)Thank for your reply, GreenDesigns! Copper would be beautiful but $$$$! Would it be too much hanging from ceiling to have both a hood and a pendant light if I used a light that had nickel trim? Should I use stainless faucet if I do that? (I don't know how my picture got upside down! It was right side up yesterday!)...See MorePlease help! Do I center my hood and range with the island?
Comments (1)I would prefer the more balanced work space over arbitrary symmetry to an offset island. Plus, you don't want the stove and sink aligned if somebody might be working at each of them at the same time. Maybe a single pendant, over sink? or interesting semi-flush lights, if your hood and tile really merit center stage? (most are not *really* as dramatic as all that...)Hanging the lights a little on the high side seems to be a common solution... Also keep in mind that as you move about the room, different elements will be prominent to your eye, so it's ok to have lights that cross the visual of the hood, especially if you need the task lighting. They too are a thing to enjoy....See MoreRange hood suggestions? Island hood, stainless, 36"ish
Comments (17)I may have left out some words due to repetition. The number of square feet refers to the entry aperture of the hood. For example, a 36 x 24 hood aperture would be 6 square feet, and would require 6 x 90 = 360 CFM actual, likely needing a blower rated at 540 CFM. Pressure loss not only entails the ducting, but the baffles and the MUA path. Leaky walls are not exactly a free path for air. A leaky house may be sufficient for MUA in practice (given that the blower rating takes the pressure loss into account), but the OP may live where aggressive code enforcement will demand at least a damper in a duct to the outside. The rationale for 90 ft/min is based on ensuring entrainment into baffle gaps that typically are around 50% of the baffle area and have to deal with upward plume velocities of as much as 1.2 m/s. See also the table (Figure 4) on page 9 of the Greenheck Guide available here: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf The discussion leading to that table should prove useful for background information. In particular, the Greenheck method vs. the linear feet of hood edge (all the way around for an island hood) method is discussed. (Note commercial cooking rarely is true island type; even located in the middle of a kitchen the hood is connected to the cooktop via a back section. There may also be side skirts on the hood.) Last, let me point out that capture can fail under cross draft conditions, which are almost always worse for island/peninsula configurations than wall configurations....See Moreempet
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