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Granite over dishwasher at end of peninsula with 12-in overhang

11 years ago

I have a peninsula that has a sink base and a dishwasher right next to it. The dishwasher is at the end of the peninsula. There will be a 1 1/2" panel next to the dishwasher and a panel running along the back of the peninsula. There is currently a 12" overhang along the back of the peninsula for stools. We will never eat at the peninsula since there is an eat-in area right next to it so I really don't care about the width of the overhang. We decided, though, to keep the 12" overhang to help with splashing from the sink.

Because of this set up the granite will be sitting on the sink base, the dishwasher, the side panel and the back panel.

That just doesn't seem like enough support to me especially when you add the 12" overhang into the mix, but what do I know.

We spoke to a granite installer who wasn't too worried but the granite sales person was worried. No solution was arrived at.

Did any of you have to deal with this and what was your solution? TIA!

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Comments (6)

User
11 years ago
A pony wall for the back of the peninsula is a pretty standard solution for this problem. And that support on the DW end should be examined to be sure it's really the 1 1/2" panel you think it is. That would be two 3/4" panels bonded together, and if so, then that's sufficient if they run from the counter height all the way down to the floor. That would be sufficient vertical support, but it would not be that stable just to be there on the end. You probably also want a filler in there at a 90 degree angle to provide additional stability. Basically, building a box out of the 3/4" panels with the filler in the middle, and then running enough horizontal support at the rear and front so that it's not wonky. Or just do another pony wall and cover it with some skins. It's probably cheaper (and sturdier) to do it that way for sure. You can always turn the studs sideways to use less space.
User
11 years ago
We got rid of our pony wall/raised bar. We added 12 inches of display cubbies and cabinets (haven't added pulls yet) and gained a nice wide prep area. There's 19 in. of counter behind the sink, but a little splash still reaches right to the edge.
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I really appreciate your help Annkh, Hollysprings, and Trebuchet :) So, the thread I linked to below clarified a lot for me! The dishwasher isn't installed yet and I wasn't 100% clear on the installation requirements. I learned a few things: a. the dishwasher opening needs to be exactly 23-5/8" wide in order to prevent noise issues b. the dishwasher needs to be installed with no gap between its top and the countertop What that means is - 1. I cannot use the 20x20 L brackets mounted on the back wall because they would cause an unacceptable 1/2" gap on top of the dishwasher (noise issues) 2. I probably should not use cleats on the sides, because that would create gaps beside the dishwasher sides, which could lead to noise issues. That leaves an additional panel on the left hand side (bracketed to the wall/floor) as the only solution that will create an acceptable dishwasher install *and* countertop support. Now I have to evaluate how to deal with the resulting asymmetry (more panel on the left hand side of the dishwasher) and figure out if I still have enough hinge clearance on the left hand side of the fridge. Trebuchet - thank you for the instructions on how to attach a cleat to 5/8" particleboard - that is very useful info that I will use elsewhere in the kitchen install :) Annkh - I have room at the back, not the sides. Hollysprings - bingo with your comment on how gaps will affect dishwasher install. Here is a link that might be useful: Help with noisy Miele Diamond?
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Depending on how much of the slab is supported by cabinets you may be able to do a 12" overhang without supports. There are fairly well established rules of thumb for how much unsupported overhang there can be. Typically if 2/3 of the slab is supported then 1/3 can be unsupported. In you case if you have a standard 24" base cabinet then you should be able to do up to 12" unsupported. anything more would require corbels or hidden steel supports. There has been quite a bit of discussion here. Here is a link that might be useful: island overhang
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User
11 years ago
I meant to add that a 12 inch overhang without barstools will look unfinished. Either build out the back and panel it so there's a structure under the 12 in. of granite or add cabinets if you need storage. And who doesn't?

We didn't use barstools on our old peninsula because the dining room table was just 3 feet away. So imagine your overhang looking like this. Those 12 inches without barstools underneath were useless and an eyesore. It's what got the remodel going.
jerzeegirl
Original Author
11 years ago
may flowers: I LOVE what you did to your peninsula. I actually was thinking of doing somewhat the same thing with bookshelves but I was afraid that it would be too crowded since my kitchen is very small. Here is a picture of it, pre-reno, but the layout is pretty much going to remain the same. There is a cabinet to the right which is the blind corner. It's usable but the plumbing goes through the bottom. I can pull that forward and balance it which a book cabinet on the other end I guess. My problem is I can't come too much forward because the patio door is right there (as you can see in the photo).

hollysprings: Thanks for your input. I will probably do what you suggested and have them build a pony wall and maybe shorten the countertop a little bit. That seems to be the easiest solution.
jerzeegirl
Original Author
11 years ago
may flowers: Are the cabinets behind your counter custom carpentry or are they stock cabinets? They look very custom.
User
11 years ago
They're custom. We didn't do a deep corner cabinet--just built on 12 inches along the entire back. The plumbing is inside the sink cabinet.

The inside of the cabinets are cherry so they look like a dining room cabinet and not kitcheny. They hold wine glasses and china.

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