Inset vs. Overlay cabinets
agk2003
10 years ago
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IliN
10 years agorosylady
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Full overlay, Inset or Faux Inset Overlay?
Comments (11)Don't feel you have to enforce vertical symmetry with the need to line the coolers up with the stacked bottles. If slightly wider ones are cheaper and would work, the go with that without a qualm. And i think having them the same dimension actually weakens the overall design, a bit. You'll notice that in colored picture, the bottle stack and the cooler doors don't line up, and it still looks well-balanced. Notice, too, that there's even an optical illusion-created discordance between the stacked bottle rack on the right and the strongly vertical-orientation of the glass-paneled doors to the left on the other side of the TV. So just making those two sides match didn't result in an eye-sweet balance, no matter what the tape measure may say. In your case, I think the strong apparent verticality of the coolers' slab doors may make them seem narrower than they actually are, creating a top heavy look to the wine racks above. This violates the general sense we have that things should be bolder, and stronger-appearing on the base, and successive layers should get lighter, narrower, smaller, or whatever. In our second drawing, with the coolers moved inward, the optical-illusion of their narrowness is resolved. Also it may just be artefacts of the layout but the D-shaped raised trim pattern on the sides of the narrow lower doors strikes me as unattractive. Also door hinging should be book-matched, or disguised to look that way. HTH L....See MoreFull Overlay - Partial Overlay -or- Inset Cabinets
Comments (26)There is really no fundamental difference in strength between framed and framless cabinets. Poorly-built frameless cabinets will be less sturdy than well-built face-framed cabinets, and well-built frameless cabinets will be more sturdy than poorly built face-framed cabinets. Regarding your statement: I see that the small frame in the kitchen reduces very slightly the useable space in terms of installing drawers or pullout shelves, but it's not a significant difference. Some GW poster put together a comparison between frameless and face-framed and the differrence is alot more than than you would think at first. (Anyone got the link ?) For illustration purposes they compared a 12" wide base cabinet in the two styles, and assumed 3/4" thick box construction, 1/2" thick drawer boxes, 1/2" wide side mounted slides, and 2 inch face frames. With frameless the drawers ended up with an usable internel width of 12 - 2 x (3/4 + 1/2 + 1/2) = 8 1/2" vs for face-framed the drawers ended up with an usable internel width of 12 - 2 x (2 + 1/2 + 1/2) = 6" So if you want the full-overlay look, my opinion is you should go with frameless cabinets. Also regarding your daughter slamming the doors, I have seen posts about something called "blumotion for doors" which attach to the hinges (which I believe must be blum brand) which eases the door closed....See MoreHelp Me Decide - Narrow Kitchen Island
Comments (27)Hi Amanda The Cabinets on the sink wall are all 24" deep. I used Inset (vs Overlay) cabinets to be able to reduce the counter overhang to 3/4". The cabinets on the opposite wall are 13" deep with only a 1/4" overhang since there is no food prep in that space and it was intended to look like one piece of furniture. The Island is 261/4" wide which allowed 24" deep cabinets, 3/4" for wainscot on back side and 3/4" overhangs on each side. These were some of the small measurements that I thought through. Counter overhang space was total of 2 1/2" versus 6" if I used overlay cabs with the standard 1 1/2" overhang on island and counters. Distance from foyer entry to the island is 51". I also worried about the island being at the entry when I was used to a totally open space. I was also concerned about a zig zag route to my sink when I formerly had a bee-line from the foyer. It doesn't bother me in the least and that 51" does not feel like the island is crowded near the foyer entry. All my stools fit easily under the island and are always tucked away. You could test the feel by moving your table to mock the island location. The Island is 90". I wanted it to line up with where the opposite counter ended and maximize distance from the table. Again alot of careful planning! I don't use the island for prepping but I do set my cookbook at that end. The cabinet end includes an 18" Trash cab, 27" microwave cab plus 3/4" wainscot on each end for 46 1/2" Total Cabinets. Seating side apron plus leg is 42" total. With the 3/4" overhang on each end, total counter length is 90". I searched forever for stools before I committed to my island size and the opening for the eating space. My concern was designing the island and not being able to find stools to fit completely under it out of the way. I intended to use 3 stools and the size was limited by the space between the island legs on the short end. I set the legs as far apart as possible to maximize space for the stool. Since 5 fit easily I keep them there. Back edge of island to table is about 42" which I think was about the same distance I had from the peninsula to table. However the table used to be directly behind the peninsula rather than being offset as it is now. I know you said you love having that door but it looks like it prevents you from using that whole end of the kitchen since the space is reserved for the door swing. Could that door be moved down even further? Wonder if there is such a thing as an exterior pocket door. Or perhaps the large window could be moved and replaced with a slider and give you the access you need. Perhaps that would allow you to add a sink window on the other end of the kitchen. Just some ideas that may be totally undoable!...See Moreinset vs. full-overlay... decisions...
Comments (29)You have to ask for the type of hinges that have full adjustment (they're normal for most cabinets now a days, but many people who want inset want exposed hinges and these are not exposed). Really, they're only necessary if you live in a house that sees a lot of movement. We do, being in an earth quake zone, on pilings, and in a frost heave area. The adjustable hinges ensure our doors will never stick, but that might be overkill for you. (In the pic you can see both styles...the squirrel cabinet has exposed hinges because it's only an inch deep and does not have room for adjustable hinges...it's a chalk board). I should have mentioned, I also did deeper cabinets, but I was going to even before I did inset. My uppers are all 15" after living with 12" uppers that didn't fit my dinner plates. The few inches is totally NOT noticable, until you open them and see how much more space you have. And as long as you're going with a custom builder...look to bigger lowers as well. We have 27" deep lowers on our stove side and just love them. (No uppers on that run). To me, the look of inset doors isn't necessarily vintage. My kitchen isn't vintage by any stretch of the imagination....I'd instead call it eclectic and classic. We have modern surfaces as well as old world But the inset doors and drawers, to me they say "rich" and I don't mean rich in money :OP But rich in details. Mine have a beaded edge and the detail is just fabulous IMO They're clean lined and classic, and worth every penny....See Moreagk2003
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