If it's solid, I'd keep it. They don't make them like that anymore and it's a wonderful shape. But stripping it would be an awful job. I'd paint it.

Fori - I know, isn't it pretty?

The thing is, there is so much thick paint on it already - I'm afraid of losing even more detail in another layer. For example, the newel post has two routed grooves that go around it that you can barely see because they're full of paint. (you can see it in the second pic where the paint has come out)

And their is chipping/cracking in the paint, also. So, would I just paint over all the chipping and cracking?

You'd have to chip off the loose stuff, maybe feather in some filler to smooth out the paint chips...you might have to strip it even to get it paintable. It'll be a really intensive job prepping it for paint, but more forgiving than prepping to stain. And of course that old paint is full of lead, so keep the kids away.

Do you think it was originally painted or stained?

Stripping is an awful job, but it can be done. I recommend the use of something called PeelAway7 -- you slop it on, cover it with paper, wait a day, then peel the paint off. Sounds miraculous and it's not, quite, but it does work better than anything else I tried, and it's not hideously toxic like other paint strippers. You'll still need to do an awful lot of hand sanding regardless of your stripping method.

The question is probably: do you have the patience and the 3 weeks or so it would take to do the job? I stripped all the painted trim in my entire downstairs, and it looks fabulous, but took half of forever to complete.

If you want to repaint, you'll have to sand down all the globs and peeled spots so that there's no loose paint before repainting. And use a primer like Zinnser BIN 123, too -- no knowing how old that paint is.

Good luck!

i think anything is possible if you set your mind to it. my only question is on the baluster spacing. if you want to invest time and money i'd check your town codes first. the balusters on your staircase look a little far apart.

Here is a link that might be useful: general article on staircase codes

I had the same thought as kateskouros. I'm betting it's not even close to meeting code, if that matters to you. We were only allowed 4 or 4 1/2" between pickets. I think the idea is to keep it narrow enough so a child can't get his/her head stuck in between...or, of course, from being able to slip through and fall.

Fori - my guess is stained from what I can see through the worn layers.

I don't know how I feel about being in code in this particular context, I hadn't even thought of it actually. But, I can vouch for the fact that my kids can DEFINITELY fit through those gaps....

My youngest is 2.5 - hopefully, our window of opportunity for slipping through the opening is narrowing...

Hmm... what to do, what to do...

Code schmode. Deal with that if you sell. You can child-proof it with ten bucks worth of tulle. :)

Um...if you have a 2.5 year old, you don't have time for this project. You should probably knock off any loose stuff and wait until kindergarten.

Fori - how many hours per day would I have to put in to finish this project in, lets say, 3 weeks?

I can put in a few hours per night after the kids are in bed.

It seems like it would be a sin to rip it out and replace it. I could look into having it custom milled as a close-as-possible replica.

Tulle? With all due respect, and I'm not a slave to all code, but I'm not so sure I'd put any faith in that as a safety measure...and I don't think it's a look I would want. ;-) You also need to think about the ages of possible visiting children, not just your own. I'm not saying what I think you should do, only that there may be more you'll want to consider before making a final decision.

It has been brought to your attention, good you know to be careful with children but codes change constantly. Nothing stays up to code so I wouldn't let that make your decision. It is a beautiful banister and I would probably scrape as much as possible, prime and repaint.

gw, can you send it out to be stripped? Someone with a vat could make short work of it. And then you could spend your time and energy on painting or staining.

bbstx - what type of craftsman would I call for a job like that? We are connected with an Amish woodworker (made our kitchen cabs for us) I wonder if he'd be up for the job?

And how in the world would I take it apart? It is solid as a rock, and of course, all joints encased in layers of paint.

I've been scraping at it a bit this afternoon. Interesting. But, if you hack at it too hard, you gouge the wood.

I have an old farmhouse too. I stripped the handrail and the newel post and had the spindles dipped-they are VERY tedious to strip by hand.
We spent 6 months stripping the wood in this house - glad I was young - I could never do that now.

Best of luck to you!!

Plastic chicken wire, dayglo orange construction mesh, a bolt of tulle wrapped 'round and 'round, or something expensive from a kid safety gizmo shop will keep kids from falling, but I'm sure GW already knows how to keep her kids in one piece. I'm just saying don't bring it up to code unless needed--there are workarounds for safety issues!

You might want to hit the woodworking or painting or some other forum for stripping tips. Ask your woodworker for advice.

There are the chemical strippers, the heat guns, and the power sanding tools. And you'll possibly need all of them. They're all bad to do with kids around. A bit toxic...

No idea how long it would take, but would you be able to concentrate on high visibility spots like the newel post to restore the detail there and then do a less intense prep elsewhere? (For painting of course...) You could even do a carefully applied glaze to enhance details that are almost gone. Hmmm...adding more paint to make spots full of paint look like they aren't...

I have dealt with that code issue myself. In our municipality (I think we're pretty general but just wanted to add that little disclaimer) I only have to deal with banister spacing if I remove any of the stair rail or newels. If I leave it alone, it's grandfathered in, including for sale.

That being said, your staircase is really pretty. I'd contact a stair expert and see about adding smaller dowling that would compliment the current pieces to bring it up to code, and make it lovely at the same time.

For me it wouldn't be an issue of actual code, but my confidence of safety for my family and our guests, and not being able to look at this banister in person, and not knowing the personalities affected, I wouldn't give an opinion either way. I was just throwing out things to think about. But I still wonder about a work-around to save a lovely banister that will subtract from or cover up its beauty. I think Igloo has a great suggestion.

Ok - I have an additional "design" question:

Should I also strip/refinish the wide, white flat piece that encases the staircase, on the left? And, the pieces opposite the ballister, to the right? You can see in the first pic, the right side of the staircase has wood casement, also, in each corner of each step. Would I also strip/refinish that area to match the banister and balusters, and flat piece?

Ok - that staircase is beautiful!!! It could be absolutely stunning!!! I know this will be work, but I would strip the staircase and the face board along the staircase - you can do the opposite board later or just replace it with a salvaged piece later. It really will be beautiful - a show piece.

Looks like you have maple under the paint so the paint won't be in the grooves. If you set a reasonable goal - like one spindle each weekend, it won't be so daunting and you'll be able to see how fantabulous it will look. Get a good, enviro-friendly stripper like the Peel-Away and let it do it job, then peel & re-apply. The key is to keep the stipper wet so it can work through all the layers - so keep it covered and sealed after you apply each coat. Once the big gunk is off you can use 3M stripper pads and steel wool to scrub off the residue. Use a flexible putty knife or razor blade to scrape off the early gunk. Plastic scrapers work well for the curves - you can even buy curved scrapers. Once you get the hang of it, it will go faster... If you want more specific tips, email me - I'd be glad to share : )

Good luck!

Bethv- do you think I should strip and repaint? Or strip and stain? Or... a combo??

Your post got me all excited!!

If I went to all the trouble to strip it I would never put paint back on it.

Iris, I agree, but here's hoping that all the paint will strip off well enough to stain. I might only be able to get it to a paint-acceptable level, know what I mean?

I've been wondering if I should just try stripping the handrail and newel post and leaving the balusters and skirt board white??

I think the whatchamacallit skirt part (stringer?) should be done to match (unless you do stain and it's a different wood, which would make me think the entire thing was meant to be painted because it normally does go with the banister (run on sentence me? never!)).

And stripping just the rail and post would not be bad at all--and it'd give you a way to quit if it's too painful. :)

It's not just the space between the spindles, but the height of the banister itself that you might want to check. We looked at an old house and the stair railing hit me at my knees, and I'm of very average height. Yours looks a little short, is it? I'd worry about that with kids, more than I would about them sticking their heads through. You wouldn't want anyone to topple over the side. I don't know anything about code (even if you cared) but you might check into that.

Good luck, it is lovely!
Robin

Pick a spot and try stripping it. Then decide whether you have the patience to continue. Once you start to enjoy the fumes, you'll be addicted and there'll be no turning back. It's pretty easy grunt work, actually. Patience and obsessiveness are the keys. A certain personality type is ideal!

I agree with iris16 -- if you do it, strip it for stain. Personally, I think paint + stain combinations look silly -- i.e., like somebody lacked the "passion" to do the full stripping job. ;-)

Ok, I am going to the store today for some Peel Away 7!

One more "design" question:

I will be having white painted trim. It will still be ok to strip/stain the whole thing, correct? Our front door will be stained wood (rather than paint) so maybe it will pull that hallway together to have the door and banister wood colored, then white trim?