Makeup Air Requirements: New Jersey
Carrie1234
12 years ago
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Tom
12 years agoTom
12 years agoRelated Discussions
A question about makeup air
Comments (10)On the subject of MUA it may be useful to repeat that there is always MUA. If an extremely tightly sealed house will leak only 30 cfm at the negative pressure that the hood blower can manage, then only 30 cfm will be exhausted at the hood. From a code inspector's perspective, the unremoved cooking grease is not the issue, the issue is what does this negative pressure do to combustion appliances that may be present. Gas fired hot water heaters, oil burners, dryers, etc., are combustion appliances, and for the purpose of this note, fireplaces should also count. A choked off hood blower can usually manage -0.1 inches of w.c. pressure in a sealed house, but only around -0.03 inches is needed to back-draft fireplaces and water heaters. Even oil-fired boilers will start leaking exhaust into the house past -0.06 inches or thereabouts. So, to avoid this there are four options: 1) Have a leaky house. The fresh air is good for you. 1950's houses could probably leak 100 - 300 cfm at -0.03 inches depending on the house's size 2) Build an appropriate MUA system, the subject of many threads in this forum 3) Isolate the combustion appliances from the kitchen air such that they have their own effective MUA 4) Have no combustion appliances. kas...See MoreMake-up air dilemma - WWYD?
Comments (34)Hollysprings - thanks for the enlightenment. I've been trying to find as much info as possible on mua, so I can be in the "know" and make the right decision. I'd not heard of anyone paying that much for mua, so it's interesting that you think this is average. Not giving up the range, so I'll search until I find a good solution that includes safety - don't want anyone reading about me on the news!!! Clueless - thanks for the reinforcement. I'm not opposed to mua at all, just to the cost, which I thought was pretty steep. Hough - thanks for the link. Good to know this worked in MI. Will research further. Kks - at this point I'm hoping I don't have to find out what 13K covers by finding another SAFE alternative that isn't so costly. Megan - good luck. If I come across anything applicable I will post. Again - thanks all. Really appreciate the advise and options!!!...See MoreMakeup Air & gas cooktop
Comments (15)Thanks for the data. What we can see from this plot are the following: Above about 2 inches of water column pressure "(inAq)," there is no significant flow. There are no points on the useful part of the curve where there are two flow rates at the same pressure; hence, the blower is stable. At zero pressure loss, i.e., hanging in air no hood, ducts, or MUA restriction, one obtains 715 CFM At our example require flow rate (need to recalculate for your actual aperture) of 540 CFM, the maximum pressure loss that can be tolerated is about 0.8 inches, w.c. So let's go with 36 x 18, or 4.5 sq. ft. In this case, while some of the pans may not have hood over them and thus some of their plume effluent will not be captured, for 90 ft/min, 405 CFM will assure that what is captured is contained. The fan curve shows that this can be obtained at 1.4 inches, w.c. We don't know what the pressure loss of the baffles is vs. flow rate, but assuming some things about Wolf data I have and guessing, I would suggest we use 0.6 inches at 405 CFM for now. This allows us to allocate 1.4 - 0.6 = 0.8 inches for hood duct, MUA duct, and MUA filter. If the dominating remaining pressure loss is the MUA filter, I can refer you to the following snippet, where various filters of different thickness (this is pleat thickness, not surface thickness) are listed vs. pressure loss at different flow rates. The flow rate for this case is 405 (CFM) divided by the filter area (sq. ft.). Even a mere square foot of filter should be tolerated in the MUA system based on this information. I would recommend, if space allows, a filter box (caddy) that holds a standard filter. The MUA duct would be transitioned to the filter box, which could be connected to a diffuser in the kitchen ceiling, among other possible schemes. Don't blow the air right at the hood unless it is fairly distant (a low multiple of the ceiling height). Remaining allowable air pressure loss can then be allocated to the ducts, wall caps, dampers, etc., which I think is conservative. So while we can conclude that this might work, schemes for heating the air, if required or desired may force use of an active system due to increased resistance of the duct length and of the heating scheme. Another conclusion from this exercise is that if you were to go to a larger hood for better capture, a more powerful blower (with a fan curve above and to the right of the one you provided) will be needed....See MoreConsequences of make-up air
Comments (9)What kind of cooking do you do? How often? What do you want to be able to do in your new kitchen? How old is the house? How important is your, families and friends health to you? While by-products of gas combustion are the biggest health issue, there are other health concerns with by-products of many styles of cooking. On top of this is the unpleasantness of the odors of meals past. I cannot tell you how often I've walked in to someone's home for dinner and smelled the odors of the prior night's (and the night before that and the lunch before that) meals. I think people often don't realize how bad their house smells. AND thus, if there are stale odors around, how poor of indoor air quality they also have because stale odors means stale air such as high levels of CO2. Stale air means poor health. SO, gas or induction, you still want good exhaust and good fresh air to replace what's removed.. Induction manufacturers promote that induction doesn't need as much exhaust but that's really not completely true. If you cook infrequently and then mostly boiling water on an induction then exhaust can be minimal. Otherwise you likely want good exhaust regardless of gas or induction. So, you get good exhaust and now what to do about make up air. Keep in mind that make up air is simply fresh outside air being brought in to replace the stale unhealthy air being exhausted. If you live in California and have windows that haven't been closed since Marleen Dietrich was on the big screen then you're in good shape. Otherwise you likely need at least passive make up air and in most cases active (using a blower). Keep in mind that CODE is the worst and least effective system that you can legally get away. The idea that someone should put in a lower CFM hood just to stay under code is idiotic. It's like saying that it's OK to smoke half a pack of cigarettes per day because the gov't says you shouldn't smoke a pack a day. A proper kitchen exhaust system and proper make up air, passive or active, is about your, your families and your guests health and quality of life, not simply meeting minimal code. (that is not directed at the OP BTW). So, start with what needs to be exhausted and what fresh air needs there are. Then design a system to meet those needs....See More64reno64
12 years agoTom
12 years ago64reno64
12 years agodekeoboe
12 years agoCarrie1234
12 years agoUser
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Carrie1234Original Author