Top mount sink with no visible sealant
tony_james
11 years ago
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wallycat
11 years agoCavimum
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Dishwashers: Visible or invisible controls?
Comments (24)Peter NJ makes a good point ("the trend is simple, classic instruments - dials and needles that evoke the early days of aviation. What I think this says about style in general is a return to authenticity. You don't try to hide your cooktop or oven.... So why try to hide the fact that you have a dishwasher?") I totally agree, and I'm also a total sucker for that trend. Witness my Fratelli Onofri range--before buying it I actually had them go open the box in the warehouse and make sure the one they were selling me had the analog clock, not the digital one. Seriously, if this were the appliances equivalent of an al-anon meeting, I would have to get up and confess: "Hello, my name is Ideagirl, and I'm such a sucker for vintage looks that I spent hundreds of dollars more for THE EXACT SAME RANGE because the stores that sold it for less only had ones with digital clocks." HOWEVER, here's the aesthetic reason we got integrated controls on the dw: because they don't seem to make dishwashers whose external controls look like simple, classic instruments. The controls are plastic, digital, etc. If they made a dishwasher with external controls that looked like the instrument panel of a 1938 biplane, I would have had to physically drag my husband away from it... except I wouldn't have, since I would've wanted it too. But they don't, at least not in any price range I would ever pay attention to. So, since those dw's don't seem to exist, we got something that looks classic in a different way: an Asko 5233 with the "towel bar" handle. It doesn't have ANYTHING on the front, not even the manufacturer's name. Looks classic enough for me....See MoreMold resistant silicone for under-mount sink?
Comments (13)babyboomer1001: 100% silicone is perfect caulk between a sink flange and the bottom of stone. Polyseamseal and other Latex caulks are not; they do not have the adhesive stickiness or flexibility of silicone. It's best if you can pull your sink, clean the sink flange and stone bottom, recaulk with silicone and reinstall the sink. If this isn't reasonably possible, use a stiff plastic shim or plastic laminate to gouge the caulk out, clean the gap with acetone, and recaulk with silicone. Ignoring a leaking sink flange can have catastrophic consequences if your top has been "rodded" or reinforced with steel. If the fabricator used the wrong rod and/or the wrong bedding the rod can rust and blow up your top. I've fixed about 8 of these so far and it runs around $1,000.00-$1,600.00....See MoreCan You Recommend a Marble Sealant?
Comments (7)Good morning, I was looking for GardenWebber's Experience with the various marble sealers out, and of course, found this thread. It seems that there are many equally effective sealers, and perhaps choosing the one that is most readily available in my greater area is the way to go? We will be installing Carrara on the sink run, polished, nonetheless. And I am fine with the etching, although I anticipate being waaay overprotective initially :D We have had a rather large remnant living to the left of the existing sink for 5-6 weeks now, so I kind of know what to expect. I am nervous about the effect our somewhat hard water will have around the sink and faucet. The usual cleaners will damage the marble in process of removing mineral build-up. I will find my way in dealing with this. Maybe better habits (wiping up after using the sink, every time), ha ha. It's very difficult to get honed marble here, price of living in the boonies. That's ok, it's a trade off, and I imagine in time, this will change as well. So, after this long-winded ramble, all advice is always welcome :)...See MoreHow to mount farm sink (blanco ikon)??
Comments (24)Yes, there is about a 1/4" gap at the corner where the sink is curved, and the cut is square. I don't think your angle of your picture and the lighting is making that visible to everyone. I would want him to order a deep drawer face, and scribe it better, then cover it up. He needs to practice his curves more with cardboard or Masonite. The trick is to cut just a bit smaller than needed, with a bit of a bevel to the inside. Then the small bit of excess can be slowly rasped away with a file to the exact contour. It's a giant PIA to get those wonky corner curves perfect. But it can be done. I also personally want the cut exposing the raw wood to be sealed before the sink is installed and caulked. Takes just a minute to do when using shellac or a shellac based primer. Gives a lot of peace of mind. And all of that is why my installer mumbles under his breath and charges me $500 to do a farm sink cradle and cut. ;-/...See Moretony_james
11 years agotony_james
11 years agoUser
11 years agotony_james
11 years agoangie_diy
11 years agotony_james
11 years agokani_b52
2 years agoci_lantro
2 years agokani_b52
2 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
2 years ago
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