Pictures of properly installed farm sink counter top
Comments (7)
allison0704
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agomdmc
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoHere's mine with granite. We did a slight negative reveal to show off the sink.
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Comments (28)Thanks for the nudge Breezy and Fishies! It's long over due. See my link below... drbeanie2000 - you better believe it! Yes, I love my kitchen (and the rest of the house) mostly because it's all mine and we are settled. All the little things I agonized and fretted over don't seem so worrisome now. Actually, all the little things I own and will go on the "in the next house" list. ha! All in all, I am happy will all my choices and am thoroughly enjoying it all! What more could I ask for, eh? Here is a link that might be useful: my full spec reveal post...See Morefarm house sink and kitchen counter install - who does what?
Comments (1)Hi, our kitchen has been finished for about a month. Our soapstone fabricator wanted the contractor to install the sink and make sure everything was plumb before he came to template. I've attached a picture of template day - you can see the sink is already in at that point. Our sink is the Kohler Whitehaven - it took our contractor just about 20 minutes to install the sink!...See MoreBank of counter top windows at sink - how to handle code electrical?
Comments (12)Most pop up receptacles will not meet code for the required receptacle for several reasons. Most are only listed for temporary use. The only one I have found that is listed for such use is not in production the last I heard. In any case, ANY receptacle device installed IN countertops MUST be "LISTED for the application" That means that an independent government approved testing laboratory has tested the device to ensure certain standards have been met for outlets designed to go IN countertops, and that the installation instructions show the proper requirements for installing it in the countertop to meet the standards. This includes that the device's 'faceplate' seals well enough when closed to keep water out of the junction box, not a characteristic that a "wall" receptacle would normally poses. 210.52(C) (5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall be located ON or ABOVE, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.) above, the countertop. Receptacle outlet assemblies LISTED for the application shall be permitted to be installed IN countertops. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place, appliance garages, sinks, or rangetops as covered in 210.52(C)(1), Exception, or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets. Informational Note: See 406.5(E) for requirements for installation of receptacles in countertops. 406.5 (E) Receptacles in Countertops and Similar Work Surfaces in Dwelling Units. Receptacles shall not be installed in a face-up position in countertops or similar work surfaces....See MoreCounter Top Installation Help for IKEA Sektion 15" Base Cabinets
Comments (7)I am not any further on the counter :) But I am still planning on using the ply as an underlay. Unless I don't, lol. The soapstone that I have on hold has a small ding in the surface. I can repair it by using epoxy and ground soapstone "crumbs". Then when dry it sands nicely and you really don't see it. I haven't actually bought the stone I have on hold, but its not going anywhere. They might have other remnants soon. I think I will drive there tomorrow and reassess the "ding" and maybe just go with it instead of waiting for something else to turn up. Just got the under cabinet LED lights installed today. I am still working on the crown at the top. I have one length in and have to cut a piece to finish it up. The space is to tight for me to fasten the crown as instructed. I am using extra strong velcro, that will hold 1lb/sqin. It has been working well for the top crown. I used velcro to attach the filler strips to the 2x4 backing at the ends of the cabinets too. It was great. The instructions for my style of crown have you attach the crown at the bottom of the uppers in a way that is not a good method. They have you directly screw through the bottom of the crown and up into the cabinet box. There is a narrow foam strip that gets applied between the crown and box which looks like it is used to block the gap between, so under cabinet lights don't show through. The foam works, but the screws don't finish flush. The screw heads are so obvious. I am going to back each screw out, one at a time, and counter sink the hole so the screw head will be recessed. Then I can cover the holes with a plug or wood filler. I would post a picture of my under cabinet lights but I haven't been able to post pictures for several days now. I don't know what gives....See Morebluekitobsessed
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agobayareafrancy
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoI wouldn't say there is a Right Way, or a Wrong Way (barring incompetence, of course!).
But you need to decide:
1. undermount vs upmount (undermount is far more common).
2. How proud (forward) will it sit (i.e. hang off the cabinet).
3. What reveal? Positive reveal (some of the lip showing, as in the photo above), neutral reveal (counter edge lines up with sink), or negative reveal (counter overhangs sink). GW'ers have different opinions here on which reveal looks best and works best for them.
4. Finally, there is the caulk. What color?
Here are my personal biases: undermount (easier to sweep stuff into sink, and protects top rim of sink from getting damaged), very slight negative reveal--about a sixteenth (I just like the look of this--sink is sort of nestled in, and you don't see the caulk. I just don't like caulk). Sitting proud a couple inches. Clear caulk--less visible than white.
Again, those are just my opinions. The "proud" issue was the only one I kept waffling on. I kept schooching the sink forward and backward for several days to decide exactly where I wanted it. Oh--almost forgot! Related to the "proud issue" is how you want the counter to sit on the front edge of the sink. I obsessed about that one for WEEKS. But I'm very obsessive... I'll provide some pictures and commentary, and you can shake your head over how obsessive I am!
Here are some of my photos after installation. Note: the caulk looks white b/c it was fresh. It turned clear, and is invisible.
In this photo, you can see how the negative reveal looks. Also, this is where I fussed over the alignment of the front edge of the counter with the lip of the sink. I ended up having the counter line up with the inner lip line of the sink. This is a common positioning, but I tried pulling the sink farther forward as well. I also tried pusing the sink back toward the wall more, because one might have less of a "gunk catcher" on the corner of the counter.
Here you see white caulk, which is now clear, and just looks like it isn't even there (just a dark "line" that looks like a tight gap):
It sits proud about 2.5 inches, and is shimmed up about 1/4 on the left side, because the front lip was very slanted. As a result, the sink doesn't drain! But oh well. I chose form over function!
Trying to figure out how proud to make her. You can see my crayon lines on the sink. The photo is very proud. I ended up opting for that first line that you see.:
Trying to figure out where the counter should line up, along with how proud to make her (connected issues):
Hey--get outa my sink!
Hope that helps a bit!
:-)
francy
edlakin
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agobayareafrancy
15 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
acountryfarm