Another option to consider is an entirely different toekick color. Our cabinets will be white for the perimeter, a dark espresso stain on the island and the floors will be a dark ebony color. All the toekicks will be stainless steel. Hopefully it will hold up well and won't need touchups like painted toekicks. I got the idea from British kitchen magazines where stainless toekicks appear to be popular. It's a more modern look though, so probably wouldn't go with some kitchens.

You could try tiles...these are brushed copper so they wont be so fussy (just wipe) Assuming toe kick is 3-1/2 high, these are 3 so would need a quarter round to finish off. https://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Aspect-3x6-inch-Brushed-Copper-Short-Grain-Metal-Tile-8-pack/10517218/product.html?refccid=5NUXIVAM3NFJLFKCIPL4PUP5XE&searchidx=0&kwds=&rfmt= This is also very cute and self stick: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Aspect-Honeycomb-Matted-12-in-x-4-in-Brushed-Champagne-Metal-Decorative-Tile-Backsplash-1-sq-ft-A98-51/203601413?MERCH=REC--PIPHorizontal1_rr--205351724--203601413--N And there are finish pieces you can buy also should you need an edge. A long long time ago we used stainless self-stick tiles for a backsplash...Very impressed with the finished product and lasted ages despite tons of cleaning and general abuse. I've used the hammered spray paint and it's foolproof but not too much sparkle if you don't mind that. The finish means that it looks good regardless of whether you're a seasoned painter or not.

I am replacing my flooring throughout the house. The instructions for a floating floor say I have to have 1/4" expansion gap around the edge of the room and not to run the flooring under cabinets or appliances (This defeats the purpose of the 1/4" expansion gap because the flooring can't move. You can place remove your current base boards and toe kicks and replace after the install - get 1/2" and it will cover the gap. For the sides of the cabinetry, if you want a solid piece without a baseboard or toe kick you could get new side panels and a front fill strips so that it goes over the gap or you may be able route the bottom of the side panels out like you do with the door jams so the flooring slides under the side panel. I am continuing my base board around the side of the kitchen cabinets up to the toe kick. I am not a fan of quarter round, but in all honesty, no one but you will ever look at or notice how you covered the gap between the flooring and the cabinets. (Think of your friends homes and the homes of your family members - what do they have? If it was such a big deal you would remember exactly what theirs looks like.)

Just wanted to provide an update, particularly for all of you who have been so helpful in this ludicrously long repair process. By calling a number of auto body shops with the vulnerability that I couldn't help but hide on the phone ("Hi, I'm really hoping you can help me because I'm still trying to solve a problem after 7 months. I realize this is a weird request for an auto body shop, but stick with me for a bit...") I finally found an auto body shop willing to take me on. (Shout out to Bruce Easton at Auto Body of Vienna, Virginia!) We decided to stick with automotive paint. I recognize that the safest thing to do would have been to have the parts sprayed with more heat protective products. Who knows.... we may end up there in a year or two. But I don't think we will. With the expert advice (above) of @wdccruise as well as @The French Barn - Lacanche Canada, as well as lengthy conversations with the automotive folks at numerous shops, I'm pretty convinced that the front panel of our oven (and definitely the kick plate) should not be getting higher than 140 degrees and that automotive paint is "built" to stand up to that. Time will tell. Perhaps I'm more confident about this since our oven door -- I understand this much better since it had to be removed -- was built in two parts. There's an interior panel that faces the blazing oven (with glass built in) and then that piece is sandwiched with the exterior panel (also with glass attached at the factory). If you ever try cleaning your oven door and see there are some drips/stains you just can't get to, then you have a similarly constructed oven. Perhaps most of them are built that way; I'm certainly no expert. In any event, boy did I clean the heck out of all four glass surfaces! So at least for now, my blue range is back in action. Using automotive paint allowed us to choose the exact color we wanted. We chose a tone that was more cobalt than the initial color and my photography isn't professional, but here's the result: Thanks again to everyone who stuck with me through this and offered your opinions/advice. Perhaps this thread will help someone else who might be looking to add color to the front of their appliance(s) as well. That's what Houzz is all about!