I like the nickel fixture, too, but then I am partial to nickel/silver finishes. It is very pretty and more graceful than the dark one, I think.

I love the photos you have shared (especially love the fabrid) and think that the first fixture is fine but nothing special. I so prefer the second one ( I am not sure about size or scale but just the looks of it). I personally don't have a problem mixing metals but others might.
But the second light is so much nicer (and so nice money wise too).That is the one I would pick as well. It has a much more refined look and I can't beleive the price.

Hmmm . . . how do you judge size and scale without seeing something in the room? My table is 75" the light is 25" wide so it would be about 1/3 the width of my table. When measuring the room's width would I include the depth of the cabinet or leave it out of the equation?

Thanks!

What matters most on the size of the fixture is the size of the table. If your table is 75â long, that fixture could be way too small. How wide is the table? That is important, too. How tall are your ceilings?

Here is some information about choosing a chandy, from a decorating studio website:

"ChandelierSize Over the Dining Room Table

One universally correct formula for determining the correct size light fixture for the Dining Room is to go with a fixture that has a diameter that is half the diameter (or width) of the tabletop. For instance, if the Dining Room table is a rectangle of 48â wide x 72â long, a chandelier that is approximately 24â (half of the 48â width of the table) in diameter would look fabulous. If the table is a 60â round diameter, a 30â diameter chandelier would be appropriate.

If you want to hang two chandeliers over an exceptionally long dinging room table (for example a table that is approximately 54â wide x 120â long), then if you select chandeliers that are 1/3 the width of the table and hang them centered on each end of the table that would be correct. Therefore each chandelier would be approximately 18â in diameter.

The height of the actual chandelier should be determined on the ceiling height of the room. Many Designers follow the rule of allowing 2 ýâ �" 3â for each foot of a rooms height. Using this calculation, a room that has an 8â ceiling can use a chandelier that is approximately 20â to 24â in height. If the ceiling is 10 feet high, than a light fixture that is 25â to 30â would look more appropriate.

The chandelier should be hung centered over the table (unless you are installing more than 1 fixture over the table) and the bottom of the light fixture should be about 30â above the table top.

Dining Room chandeliers should always have a dimmer switch so that you can use the Dining Room for a multiple of activities from romantic dinners to a study area for the kids."

Also, what style is it? From the chairs that I can see in the pix (maybe arrowback or windsor in oak?) I am wondering if your table is also oak, perhaps with pedestals? That second fixture would also be too delicate for the weight of the pieces.

I wouldnâÂÂt worry about mixing metals. You showed us a couple of the fixtures in your LR, for example, and I am sure you have more lamps in there, certainly they donâÂÂt all match- in fact, that would be boring! So donâÂÂt worry about mixing things up, rather make sure that the fixture you choose works with the room in which it is being placed.

Ok, the room is 9'6" wide not counting the area filled by the built ins. The table is indeed oak with five legs (four corners plus one in the center) we keep the leaf in at all times because where are you going to store a leaf with a leg on it.

The picture is probably a little misleading. I had the table pushed over so that I could get a clear picture of the built ins. Here are more accurate pictures of what the dining room will look like. Also I will probably have some kind of cloth on the table. The top has water rings but I don't have time to refinish it.

The view from the living room

in the corner of the DR

view from the kitchen

As you can see we have to maintain a walkway on one side of the table. We chose to move the table closer to the built ins so that the table would be centered under the light. And no DH says we can't move the box or swag with light so it is this or a semi flush mount light not centered over the table. * sigh * I love older homes but sometimes they are frustrating.

Oh and I believe the ceilings are 8 feet high.

Thanks les917. While I think the light will work for the size of the room now I'm worried it doesn't work with the table which must stay.

Here's the nine light version of the same light, but does it seem a little busy to you or is it just me?

Here is a link that might be useful: antique nickel nine light version

Here's one that's larger at 35.5 inches, maybe a better size than your other. It has classic simple lines similar to your #2, and I like black or orb for your room to balance your white and blue. BTW, your room looks so much lighter and brighter in these photos than previous ones you've posted. I love the door arches framing your room. It's going to be very pretty!
Dee
{{!gwi}}

Here is a link that might be useful: Black chandelier

Thanks Dee, I appreciate the compliment. I'm excited about the change. I think you are correct in that I probably need the dark color for contrast and balance but use the more feminine lines. I also like the idea of being able to remove or change the shades.

Thanks

I really like the antique nickel nine light version~~

Still voting for one of the two nickel fixtures, but gotta ask...not a fan of swagging a light, but why can't your electrical box in the ceiling be moved? We did that and it wasn't really difficult. Did have the drywall professionally fixed though, but it wasn't expensive. I think the chandelier would look fabulous centered and framed in those arches with the table centered as well! Just a thought.

cyn427, I agree the lighting would be gorgeous centered in the arches. I don't pretend to understand it, but DH is adamant that we aren't going to move it. So naturally I suggested swagging the light over and he stated emphatically that he HATED swagged lighting. At that point I gave up. It didn't seem worth the struggle because frankly I have too many other 'battles' and I have to choose them wisely, BUT it will be something I revisit later. Eventually that light will be moved. Unfortunately, my DH is not one of those whatever you want dear husbands. Sometimes I'm grateful, but most of the time I wish he would just leave it to me.

Ok, if you are still reading this I just have one (or two) more questions.

1. You might have noticed we don't have doors on our built ins. We are ordering new doors and will be choosing new hardware. If I get the nickel light do I also have to get nickel pulls? Because I'm torn between nickel and black/bronze. Whatever I do in the DR will probably dictate what I do in my kitchen when we (hopefully) remodel soon.

2. Is there are right/wrong decision here? Am I stressing for nothing?

Thanks.

I love the fabric you have chosen. Would you mind sharing who makes it? Thank you so much! Andrea