I thought I had a more comprehensive series of photos, but I might have not brought them over when I bought new computers a few weeks ago. The following are not pretty, but they might help: ABOVE: This shows a couple of things I had to work around. High over the toilet is a jog of the vent pipe, it comes into the room because it jogs around a load bearing beam in the wall. Lighting: You see two illuminated light bulbs. Those are the sconce locations for the "new' design. The original design had two sinks, two wall mirrors, and three wall sconces. The old wall sconce locations are the covered up junction boxes. I redid the wiring so there is no live wring in those now unused j-boxes. Outlets: Look at the middle shelf in the closet on the left. In the back right corner you can see a box. I built that to house a couple of electrical outlets. Two outlets for inside the closet, another outlet that is on the closet sidewall facing the sink, you can barely see the cover plate for that box on the closet wall to the left of the drill. More electrical: In the 48" tall cabinet that hides the toilet, there are four outlets in the upper part of that cabinet box. There is one outlet that faces the sink, there is another on the opposite side that faces the toilet. There are two inside the upper cubby to provide power to items in the upper drawer. To protect those outlets, there is a false back wall in the rear of the upper cubby of that toilet cabinet. The cabinet itself is about 32" deep, the false back wall is about 10" out from the cabinet's back, affording roughly 22" of depth for the upper toilet drawer. The cabinets: Nothing fancy, 3/4" birch plywood boxes. Horizontal shelves/tops/bottoms are recessed into the cabinet sides in a 1/4" deep dado. Titebond glue and screws. Cabinet backs are 1/2" MDF, recessed into the cabinet sides/top/bottom. Glued and screwed. Recessing the cabinet backs into the cabinet helps keep the cabinet perfectly square. I typically use a 2" wide vertical stile on my cabinet face frames. I prefer my frames to be flush with the edges of the cabinet sides. With the cabinet sides being 3/4" thick, two of them make 1-1/2". So I'll use a strip of 1/2" filler between adjacent boxes to get that 2" thickness. With my face frames being flush with the inside faces of the cabinet sides, to get square face frames you need square cabinet carcasses. You can't disguise sloppy construction with this method. Toekicks: Under the cabinets you see scrap pieces of 2x4. Those were eventually covered with wood and painted black. They simply limit the depth of the hole under the cabinet to round 8", giving dust bunnies less room to hide. ABOVE: This shows the same run of cabinets with the face frames installed. You can see the electrical outlet on wall of the left closet, facing the sink. You can see the outlet on right side of the toilet cabinet, facing the toilet. ABOVE: Everyone needs a place to keep their "to do" list. I know I'll never lose this list. At least not until I cover it with the teak top. ABOVE: Remember that really small vent pipe that jogged into the room? Well, I covered it with this really big soffit. Nothing like overkill, eh? I actually used it to balance out the visual weight of the upper part of the closet on the left side of the sink. Visually, it centers things to the open area over the center of the sink. Might sound like a lot of silly voodoo design, but visually it feels comfortable to me. The band around the upper walls is backer for the crown molding. ABOVE: Speaking of teak...this is 4/4 teak, or "four quarter" teak. If you go t a lumberyard and by a "one-by-four", it'll be 3/4" thick by 3-1/2" wide. If you go to a lumberyard and order 4/4 lumber, it'll be 1" thick. For 4/4 thickness or less, I'll use one row of biscuits. For 5/4 and thicker, I'll use a double row. In this bathroom the tub deck is 2" (8/4) thick, the sink countertop is 1-1/2" (6/4) thick, and the toilet cabinet teak top is 1" (4/4) thick. ABOVE: I usually use epoxy with teak. I thought I read a recent article that the newer titebond forumations work well on teak, but hey, when you buy epoxy by the gallon, you may as well use it, right? Except that I buy Titebond 4 gallons at a time. Hmmmmmm.... Okay, anyhow, I use epoxy. Teak is an oily wood, so prior to using epoxy I'll wipe down the edges to be glued with acetone. The acetone removes the oils. I mix the epoxy, apply it to the biscuits and the edges with an acid (flux) brush, sap it all together and clamp it up. Biscuits are designed to absorb moisture from water-based glues like Titebond and expand within the cut slots, they really lock the pieces together. Although there is no moisture in epoxy for the biscuit to absorb, it still provides more surface area for the epoxy, plus the biscuits help register and align the teak during the clamping process. ABOVE: After the epoxy has cured. I'm getting ready to belt sand these with 80-grit to smooth it out. Top photo is for the "toilet" cabinet, the bottom photo is a teak window sill for the window behind the tub. So...not the greatest series of "how to" photos. But hopefully they'll help a bit. Mongo

For the member who doesn't want thick towels, I'd recommend Ralph Lauren classics. You can usually find them at TJMaxx/Homegoods stores at great prices. Nice quality, but not bulky. I've pieced together sets between Macys and TJMaxx. Thicker- RL Greenwich towels, currently on sale at Horchow. if you decide to go that way, google for coupon codes. Thick, thirsty, soft, love! I also have Restoration Hardware towels. These are my current favorites with some reservations. #1 At first I thought I'd made a mistake. They were so bulky and heavy it was hard to wrap them around your hair. Washing and drying for several weeks took out the extra lint or whatever, so now I feel they are a comfortable thickness. Very nice. #2 I have a "water saving" :( washing machine, and was struck by how quickly my RH towels stained. They didn't stain, it was my @#$$@W@Q$%%# washing machine! They are so thick I need to wash them in warm water, on the heavy duty setting. No more "stains".

Well, apparently you can go back...to RH to exchange towels. Used my brand new Marine Blue RH towels for 2 1/2 days when I noticed some spotting/lighter areas on my face/hand towel. I know they recommend avoiding the use of "personal care products containing Benzoyl Peroxide and Alpha Hydroxy Acids" but thought that my sister had used her RH towels for years without issues and had been using a face-wash containing AHA's. Also, I really thought RH was merely "covering it's a**" (as clothing and other manufactureres often do in/on their care instructions, and RH's list of no-no's for their towels does seem a bit excessive). I thought that as long as I rinsed my hands and face very well after using my Dr. prescribed products, the towels should hold up fine. Not the case, as evidenced by those splotches that appeared after a mere 2 1/2 days of use. RH was wonderful, let me exchange the towels for white ones without a hassle (I have never had a problem with white towels, maybe someday I'll try some other make of blue towels). They assured me at the store that I could use bleach with these despite the laundry list of care instructions (I always use bleach for whites, and prefer not having to do two separate loads for whites). FYI, they recommended washing their colored towels with vinegar prior to use to prevent fading/running (wish I'd known about that when we'd gotten their Espresso towels--bought them because they were the darkest brown ones we'd seen. Ours are fine, they're still dark and look terrific, but they might've remained like-new dark after an initial was with vinegar). Anyway, they said to wash the towels with 1 cup vinegar and cold water--NO detergent, and then follow with two wash cycles with cold water only, NO detergent (to remove any lingering vinegar odor). This is supposed to help the towels retain their color (they also said it would help with spotting, but would not prevent or completely prevent spotting from the AHA's and Benzoyl Peroxide). So, I am back to white towels, at least in the MB, which is the one I use. Maybe my hesitance to fully embrace the blue towels (which I'd wanted all along for the MB) was my subconscious telling me I'd have problems with them, and I was really meant to remain a white towel girl! LOL!!! (Since DH doesn't use any products containing AHA's/BP, I think we can keep more colorful towels in the hall bathroom without any problem--at least, I hope so!)

Definitely. I remember bring my oldest child to her freshman dorm. We had time between meetings (parents were oriented too), and so we made up the bed while her roommate did the same. Oh my goodness, the tiny room smelled awful from the sheets straight out of their packages. So off they went to do their first load of laundry! Towels are more absorbent once they are washed, and do not use fabric softener with them.