Jeannie01 - get sample pots of both colors and mix them. It will be a 50/50 ratio so if you like it, you can duplicate it yourself 1 gallon of each. Blonde is an interesting color because it has what I call a strong SW signature green edge. If the light you have to work with is weighted with green beams, then that green SW edge is going to be enhanced. Blonde will show with a skunky green undertone. Blonde works and shows golden and warm in rooms where the light quality is short in the green area of the spectrum. andreadeg - no, not necessary to custom tint for each room. Color constancy would kick in making it a waste of time. Color constancy is best explained with yellow bananas. We've come to know what color a banana should be. Look at a banana in your kitchen. What color yellow is it? Take the same banana to another room with a different quality of light. You'll see it as the same yellow banana. White trim room to room works in a similar manner. Color constancy happens because color is a moving target. The quality of light is in constant flux and change and color constancy is how the human vision system deals with it. There can be dramatic peaks and valleys - like certain times of day when the white trim reads more peachy than others and at which point, it's exaggerated and you can see it and feel it. Multi-pigment and full spectrum is actually more advantageous during the color selection process. While the features of a paint color loaded up to respond to a broad spectrum of light always contributes to the quality of atmosphere, the drama of the FS color experience does wane. Because of the phenomena of color constancy. Whole lotta of discussion and exploration to be had with this topic. yayagal, Yep, mutli-pigment and full spectrum whites can be the solution. A few years ago it was harder to find those right whites. It is easier now because of the range of product to choose from, even Farrow & Ball whites are good options. Farrow & Ball isn't multi-pigment or FS but has an identifiable nuance that is suited to a broad range of light qualities. Can also take a look at the actual formula. Looking at a color's formula, like a blue or green, is a complete waste of time but white is the exception. Again, quite a discussion to be had when it comes to formulas and the information that can or cannot be gleaned. When it comes to dimly lit rooms, if you list to the color tips and tricks, you can't win. i.e. Dark paint colors will make dark rooms look smaller and at the same time white will never come alive in a dark room. What's a girl to do. ;)

I remember something with a similar name that they were marketing for marble -- to prevent etching as well as staining. I went through a lot of chasing down and persistent asking to get a sample treated with it, and I was really glad I did. The treated honed marble felt like a laminate -- it coats the surface that much. I would have paid (in my case and back then) $500 to have my stone feel like plastic. The stuff I was looking at also had to be touched up or resealed by a certified applicator -- no homeowner DIY. I can't tell you for sure that is the same, but I would urge you to have a sample of your stone treated with anything you might be considering putting on it before you make a final decision. A good penetrating stone sealer will prevent stains and the etching isn't that big a deal on a honed surface. I suspect that is all you need, but test your stone and the sealer you plan to use.

No, you are confused. But this is not your fault. It is the fault of the industry. There is a difference between dead flat and washable flat. If you are interested in using a dead flat paint, one that has no washability, then they are all pretty much the same and sometimes it is better to use a cheaper version. Cheap flat paints are filled with cheap ingredients like chalk and clay, It is these cheap ingredients that make the dried paint film look good in critical light (no flashing, roller lines, etc) and also helps to make the paint easier to touch up. However, because of the cheap ingredients, the paint film has no integrity at all, which means if you touch it or bump into it, there will be a dead spot or a dull spot. This is why we like to use it on ceilings. It looks great and nobody will touch a ceiling. A washable flat is a different animal entirely. It's not a flat paint at all, but the manufacturers will call it a flat anyway because they are stupid. A washable flat should be treated like an eggshell or a semi gloss or any paint that forms a protective skin on top of the paint film (enamel). The best system for these types of washable paints is a quality primer followed by 2 topcoats. The problem is that it can be hard to tell when you are shopping for paint which paints are dead flats and which paints are washable flats. It's even more confusing when manufacturers of dead flat paints are putting the word 'washable' or 'cleanable' or 'scrubbable' on their cans of dead flat paints! So, if you come on a forum asking for advice about flat paint, we assume you are talking about dead flat. If you want advice about washable flat paint, then you should have specified.

What works best depends on the layout and the client preference. With current software it isn't unreasonable to expect to can't be shown a decent representation of your choices. Photo-realistic is another story, but a general idea of the relationships should be easy enough unless you're still working with a pencil or 2D CAD. My preference is that it is ok to change modling color at an end of a run but it is always up to the client. First one shows two options of the 4 that the client was shown and a photo of the result. Second is flat molding-again client was shown multiple options to make final choice. Then something we are working on now. Very little of this is actually settled as the client is having difficulty settling on colors. Because of the color issue I did the first image which is more realistic but far more time consuming to produce so not as reasonable to expect (requires a render specific software program that I am just learning-the rendering was done with the gracious help of a professional renderer Rene from Rabbitt Construction). The other images were done within our standard design software but still need work on lighting (backsplash also needs to be resolved)