If you have a TSC, they should be able to get Goat panels. They are similar to the Cattle and Hog panels, except the squares are even over the whole panel. I think the squares are an even 3inches, so lambs can't reach thru and get heads stuck. Small squares are good so horse can't reach thru, or even get a good grip with teeth to bang wire around. Panels cost more, have more wire in them, but do a MUCH better job than bigger uneven holes of cattle and hog panels. Do grind off the sharp edges at ends where heavy wires are cut, so no one gets cut on them. Another idea is metal bars. We had bar stock laying around. Husband drilled the lower board of window, made round holes, but not all the way thru board. Then he did the same above only making holes cut thru board. He cut the bar steel, dropped bar lenths thru top hole, anchored bottom in lower window holes. Presto, barred front windows. Space them closely together, no more than 3inches apart. Shouldn't be able to get a hoof thru. Hoof will compress going in, then pop back wide if spaces are any larger. Your horse won't be pulling that hoof back out!! I would advise at least 3/4" steel. He used a round cutter, like they use for making door knob holes in doors. Just a much smaller size for the board holes to achor bars. Lightweight conduit does not make good bars, always bent or pulled out. Use conduit for covering wires to give you good lights in the stalls. If you check around locally, often you can find the frames to stall fronts, dividers. Buy and haul home in the horse trailer or flat trailer. Movable or temporary stalls may be a good option. You buy the frames, then you put the boards in yourself, hang the doors. With temporary stalls like these, you can take them when you leave barn. Or sell them. Rubber mats on floors make cleaning much easier, saving time and bedding. Easily removable when you leave. We use vice grips or C-clamps on the side to move them around. Good, heavy mats just are too much weight for finger tip handling!! Heavy mats stay in place better. TSC usually has the best prices, no shipping. Also on sale fairly often!! Pressure treated lumber stands up to moisture of urine, water spilled, well. Another option is sawmill lumber, white oak. Leave it rough, less likely to chew. It can be VERY heavy if green, like the pressure treated stuff. Do use galvanized nails, oak tannin rusts the heads off plain steel. Plain pine boards make good snacks!! Don't last long at all. Chain link fence stretches when pushed or rubbed, poor choice for horses, even free.

If I remember reading correctly, rooms with little natural light require more saturated hues, otherwise the walls will look a dingy off-white. Is that correct? Would I be better off going a shade or two darker than I really want, in order for the color to register? That's correct. A dimly lit room will always be a dimly lit room. Painting a pastel, light color won't change that fact. The pastel, light color will more than likely look dingy in that quality of light. Rooms that get limited amounts and quality of natural light are the worse candidates for any flavor of white paint color The key to choosing any paint color is to partner nuance with inherent light. Nuance of a color means - at the same time - considering the light/dark property of the color AND how vivid/dulled it appears in the room. It is generally best to err on the side of more saturated than grayed or toned paint colors for dimly lit rooms. Because in order to see color you have to have light - can't have one without the other. So if the quality of light is a litle short, not very robust and full, you need to partner that light with a paint color that is robust and full in some way -- like one that is more saturated or maybe one that is mixed full specrum. Doesn't necesarily mean it has to be darker - if you nail partnering the right nuance with the inherent light, you can use whatever value (value is light/dark) you want. Once you get much past a mid-tone, however, then it becomes a different color strategy. Because at that point of choosing to use darker colors, you're playing into the dim quality of light and pairing it with a similarly low-key quality paint color -- instead of coloring against the dimness, you're going with it.

I want to reiterate Marie's and Ken's praise for the width of your path as well as the depth of your front beds, both of which are in proportion to the house, though if it were mine, I would add depth along the back deck to make it deep enough to have perhaps three layers of plants (and knowing me, also along the octagonal porch as well.) In southern ME you will have acid soil like I do here in central NH, so there are a bunch of nice shrubs that will work for you, both evergreen and deciduous to give you the "bones" as GardenHoe suggested. Evergreen: Rhododendron spring flowers Mountain Laurel (Kalmia) spring flowers Bird's nest spruce dwarf forms of blue spruce smaller to medium forms of arborvitae/white cedar/Thuja occidentalis (not green giant!) which the deer haven't eaten in my garden, though it's an issue elsewhere You can also ask on the conifer forum for evergreen suggestions. IME, GH's suggestion of dwarf Alberta spruce isn't happy for long here - too disease prone Deciduous: Fothergilla (spring blooms and stunning fall color) variegated red-twigged dogwood Azaleas (spring or summer bloom, fall color) Hydrangea paniculata as jacquierz suggested, though choose the variety carefully. My Pinky Winky at 6 years is a monster (8' tall x 12' wide) so you want some of the varieties with 'little' in the name - Little Lime, Little Quickfire (starts blooming 4 weeks earlier than others and continues until hard freeze), Little Lamb, which will all be about 5'-6' tall or a few others that will stay even smaller such as Bobo. They are all fine in full sun in this part of the country and have blooms when many plants don't and mine have been fine without additional water this summer even though there have been some long dry spells. I do use mulch to retain moisture. (It's H. arborescens and H. macrophylla that likes some shade, and 'Twist and Shout' is the only H. macrophylla I would recommend of the several I've tried if you have morning sun somewhere or any of the H arborescens that appeal to you in the same 1/2 day morning sun. My H arborescens Annabelle suckers, so if you use it take that into account) Many varieties of Viburnum would work, but choose a type that is resistent to Viburnum beetles since they are around. smaller lilacs Physocarpus/ninebark, especially one of the smaller ones like Tiny Wine IME two of the suggestions further up this thread, butterfly bush and anything but the hardiest selection of the native form of redbud won't survive more than a couple of years here before they succumb to our winters. For perennials, some of my favorites in your color range include Caryopteris divaricata 'Snow Fairy', with variegated green/white leaves Aster 'Lady in Black' along with many other hardy asters in various shades of purple/blue, dark pink, and white fall Clematis, particularly the summer blooming varieties, the type 3 (hard) pruners including 'Venosa Violacea', 'Arabella', 'Betty Corning', 'Little Bas', 'John Huxtable', and 'Juuli' as well as 'Piilu', a type 2 (light) prune after blooming many groundcover dianthus in shades of pink and/or white, including 'Brilliancy' and 'Greystone' spring or spring and summer Nepeta/catmint spring into summer Some of the easy care, hardy roses, including John Davis rose and others in the Canadian Explorer series. all season Baptisia spring with nice summer foliage Iris, particularly the Siberian and Japanese varieties spring, though there are also bearded iris in your color scheme, some of which rebloom in the fall perennial Geraniums including sanguineum var. lancastriense, Rozanne, Orkney Cherry, Cinereum Ballerina, all of which bloom much of the summer in my garden Allium 'Millenium' summer Amsonia hubrichtii - spring blooms, feathery foliage with bright yellow fall color Peonies spring Salvias Caradonna and Royal Candles Penstemon Sweet Joanne late spring into fall Pulmonaria Scabiosa 'butterfly blue' all summer Stokesia summer Campanula Birch Hybrid and Resholt Variety Ibiris/candytuft Bulbs: spring - plant all where emerging perennials will hide the dying foliage White daffodils Reticulated iris Hyacinths Hyacinthoides Tall alliums such as Mt. Everest or Globemaster crocus Siberian squill (Scilla) tulips in white, pink or purple (many behave as annuals and won't bloom in following years, so look for ones that are specified as perennial)

The stone is not actual stone, it is likely a veneer. But, it is high quality with the look and feel of stone. Urban Puddy is very close to your inspiration photo. The trim would be done in Elephant Ear. Do you think those colors are simple enough? I am definitely looking for a more classic look.