Thank you for your prompt reply, Errant. The shape of my sink looking down on it looks like your picture. What does it look like from the side view before installation? The 1/4" positive reveal suggests that the apron goes all the way back or even all the way around the sink. Then when the sink is installed the stainless sides are covered up. In my case, the apron goes back 7" and the rim goes the rest of the way around. I think I'll flush mount where the apron is and surface mount the rest. It sure is puzzling why the manufacturer made a 7" hammered copper apron to be covered up when only 1-2" is needed.

the distance front to back = depth (as a term we can all agree on) lalitha it's a fascinating new question. There will be more and more people installing "deep" counters. This will create new surface area, a 9" to 10" wide swath of useable counter behind the sink. Even larger swath when the sink is pulled forward farmhouse-style. Years ago I started planning my kitchen renovation, and I forgot to plan "what to do" with this newly available real estate behind the sink. So I had to come up with ideas. Months and years later I still have not installed a faucet. (!!). The big idea we have been playing with is to have a shelf-mounted faucet and to use the under-shelf area (the 9" swath of counter) as a place for a planter for an herb garden. Since there is always a lot of humidity near the sink, having herbs growing there is OK. Since we all need some good light at the sink, it makes good sense to combine that with "grow" lights for plants. This is the idea. So far, this is still a vague idea, not put into practice. We already have hollow tempered glass shelves, with light coming from inside the shelf. So far so good. But we are undecided as to the faucet "structure". Within a few more years we will have all this figured out. -- I don't think there is any advantage gained when the sink is larger in terms of depth (front to back).

The sink is resting on a .75" piece of plywood that is screwed into the front horizontal piece. Going by what the rest of the cabs look like, they may have used dadoes on the side vertical pieces for that plywood to sit on/in Those pocket screws in the photo are most likely attaching the face frame to the cabinet. There will be more attachment points but they will be hidden and you can't access them after the cabinet is installed. From what I see, removing the sink looks do-able and pretty straightforward. Remove the drain pieces--not just the drain pipe but the basket flanges that the drain pipe connects to. Use a razor blade to cut through any caulking/ silicone, etc. sealing the sink to the countertop. And that puppy should slide right out the front. You'll need some muscle-ly help because that sink weighs north of 100#s.

I really wish it was possible to really test drive a workstation sink. We’re intrigued by the idea but definitely need to fit two people working in the kitchen at the same time (I’m the family ‘chef’ but my SO frequently helps out prepping and cleaning as I go, and often we prep more than one meal at a time, so there’s a lot going on in the kitchen at once.) They’re expensive enough - especially for the larger ones since then you need a custom sink cabinet, etc. - that we don’t want to commit unless we are sure it will help. We’re not rolling in money but we’re realistic about the issues caused by my health problems - sometimes we are just going to have to go for something more expensive because the functionality is worth it. (We do use cutting boards now. My big thought is how well a surface in a workstation sink would work for baking type activities, and where I could do those things - rolling out dough mostly - if the sink didn’t work for it, which seems likely. There are possibilities, I just need to think them through.)