Ikea kitchen - the cabinet over the fridge
Comments (11)
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Over the Fridge Cabinet Installation
Comments (2)We did the same thing. It all depends on how your cabinets are designed to be hung. If they are designed to be hung from the back, then building out a "box" to hang it from is the way to go. We have IKEA cabs, which hang on a rail. So we built a 2 x 4 box on which to put the rail, then hung the cabinet on the rail. Our cabinet isn't even attached to the side walls. I don't think it is a good idea to rely on just screws in the 3/4" panels. The box will not be that hard to build. Keep in mind that you'll want to make the biox the full height of the cabinet. Ir if you just want to build it at the top where the cab is hung from, you'll also need a similar build-out at the bottom so the cabinet can rest against it and not want to swing back against the wall. Also, you need to decide if you want your cabinet frame to be flush with the fridge panels, or if you want the doors to be flush with the fridge panels. It will make a difference in how deep you make the 2X4 "box". We have walls on either side of the fridge alcove, and slab doors. We also had to put filler above and below the cabinet. So we wanted the doors flush with the wall, and therefore flush with the filler pieces. I tried to find a picture of ours with the 2x4 build-out in place but couldn't Here is the finished product....See MoreIkea experts! Anyone have a 36' hood with ikea cabinets over? rop
Comments (3)writersblock there are other countertops, just not on that wall. if something cathes on fire we will put it on the sink which is on a perpendicular wall. or just behind us on the counter. here's a picture http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2711/4481744257_5dc0aa5567.jpg the range will go where the colourful cutting boards are. we've thought about layout a lot but if you have other suggestions, I'd love them. Keep in mind the wall on the left goes into the living room and has a 'window' through to the dining room, making the whole left side there a peninsula. we have a second floor so venting that way isn't an option. We are not going to get a downdraft. It's what we have now and does not work for us. Behind where we want to put the range is another unit. the only external wall in the kitchen is the one with the glass blocks. the blocks are the only natural light we have in there, not willing to block that in any way....See MoreOver-the-fridge/oven cabinet organization
Comments (15)Over the refrigerator storage: we put the first shelf low so that I can store big platters, roasting pans, etc. there & pull them out without a stepstool (I'm 5'2"). Above that are big stock pots, lobster/canning pot, extra slow cooker. We have slightly lower deep storage over our Advantium, which is installed at countertop height. We did the same shallow first shelf to store casserole dishes on the bottom, then put in vertical storage racks above on the first shelf for sheet pans, racks, carving boards, trays, etc. I can reach to grab the bottom of all these so I don't need a stepstool....See Morehow to arrange the fridge panels & the above cabinet?? Ikea vs Scherrs
Comments (41)bbtrix, You're right about what I left out. I should have included the opposite wall in my posted layout but idk how to indicate a stud-bay pantry and pull-down table in floorplanner. I guess I could just put in a couple of lines with a note. We were still planning to do something like that, although maybe a narrow table with a stool underneath instead of a pull-down table (even though it would technically be in the way of traffic, we can deal with something that protrudes 12" or so). We probably can't do an under-cab MW just yet, as my youngest would probably spill stuff/burn himself, but in a couple years we could do that. I do want a few hooks and a place to put a couple pairs of shoes, but our front is our "main" entrance, or at least it's where we store more stuff. When we come in the back door, we are supposed to bring our shoes to the front, although we don't always do that (me too, not just the kids). We also have a closet and storage baskets in the front, so everything is *supposed* to be carried there. What hangs in the back is my apron and a few fleeces/windbreakers (and snow pants to drip/dry when we have snow but that's been sparse lately). So we need a little space for that, but not a ton. Sometimes I hang my purse in there out of reach of the cat, who finds the leather straps just right for chewing. That said, I am intrigued by the idea of the wall table on that *back wall* under the window in the next plan. If we did that, we could then use the space next to the stud-bay pantry for coats & shoes. And I didn't even know that Ikea made a fold-down table. I like the sound of a $40 table a lot better than a custom one. I wonder if I could put some fun contact paper on it so the whites wouldn't clash. That second layout is close to what I thought was The One, but several people here talked me out of having the fridge along that opposite wall next to the DR door. Even one of the people who originally suggested it changed her mind. Strong words were used. lol. I think I have officially abandoned that one. But this definitely gives me more to think about. Thank you so much!...See More
11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
We did this with our Ikea cabinets. You can still use the rail system, which is designed to support the cabinet 100% without having to attach it to any side support (which standard cabinets require). You just have to build out a "box" on the rear wall to make up for the needed 8" of space (really 7.5", because the doors on the front of your cabinet will be 1/2" deep). The "box" or structure that you build needs to both (1) give a solid piece on which to mount the rail and (2) include a build out at the bottom against which the lower rear of the cabinet rests -- just like it would against the flat wall. If you skip (2), you end up with a cabinet hanging from the rail and then tilting forward from the top while the bottom of it swings back toward the wall to find something to lean against.
Regarding side panels, the 36" x 8' tall side panels are what you need (which at one point weren't in the planner and your Ikean had to add them at the time of the order). Make sure you order these, and not the ones that are only 24' deep and 88" tall. The correct panels:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70022758/
In our particular install we didn't use side panels, because (1) the panels are only 8' tall, and our installation was meant to go flush to a ceiling higher than 8' -- so there would be a gap at the top or bottom if we used Ikea's panel, or (2) we would have to create our own panel and try to match the finish and the horizontal grain. Our solution was to create a fridge "alcove" and ignore the panel issue altogether. The fridge was already flush against a bumped-out pantry wall on one side. DH simply built another wall on the other side and we finished it with drywall and painted. The cabinet and fridge then went in the alcove. For our install, this worked nicely, as there were no upper cabs on the rest of the run (in the rest of the kitchen, actually) and it separated this vertical "column" in the overall look of the room. It also eliminated the ageless argument of how to end the backsplash behind the fridge. We lost the 5-1/2" of space the new wall took up, but in the end we didn't miss it at all. It actually helped us keep the rest of that wall symmetrical. We mounted the cabinet about in the center of the vertical "space" available above the fridge and used trim pieces at the top and bottom. This trim was cut from one of the 36" x 8' panels, the remainder of which was used to cover the ends of our island.
Re attaching the panels, you'll want to screw through from inside the cabinet into the panel. You'll need to buy screws for this and make sure they are long enough but not too long to fit through the cabinet side and at least half way into the cover panel. Consider also using adhesive on the cover panel where it abuts a cabinet. Although we didn't have cover panels on the fridge, we had them on the ends of our island. We used adhesive and screws.
One last thing: If you've created sort of a boxed-in area, make sure you slide the cabinet bolts onto the hanging rail BEFORE you secure the haning rail in place. There's noting like getting it secured and then going "wait a minute . . . " and taking it down again. I'm sorry I don't have a picture of the box or the process, but here is what I have. I hope this helps!
The wall before:
The wall after:
Cover panels on island:
- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
- 11 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
I don't have Ikea cabinets but we also had to build out for our refrigerator. First they built a box behind my cabinet over the refrigerator to attach the cabinet to bring it out. I also had 32". I wanted a utility cabinet on the side so it was 30". The end panels were 36" I believe so they had to rip those to make them even with my utility cabinet and to box in the refrigerator. I think it turned out great for us. I am short and have no problems reaching the trays stored over the refrigerator.
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