Our glass currently has a number of holes already -- there are handles on both sides of the door, for example, that connect with each other through the glass. The shower pipe is attached to the glass in another spot -- it goes through the glass and is capped by a chromed cap on the other side. Also, the glass door's hinges are attached to both the door and the wall by bolts, which go through the glass... If no reliable glue exists on the market, I may be back to drilling holes. If this is not a safe undertaking, I may consider hiring an insured pro. The procedure does seem complicated :( Could my glass be somehow "special"? Maybe, it is not really tempered? Or, perhaps, it is not glass, but some kind of transparent plastic? Puzzling... Milkworkman, it is not at all impolite, when given an opinion, to inquire, what the basis of it is. Nor is there anything inherently wrong with arguing (which I did not even do), much less with asking follow-up questions (which I did). My responses weren't hostile -- but yours is. Please, stop. Here is a link that might be useful: How to Drill a Hole in Tempered Glass

Yeah, I know about those. And I admit those would be easier to get level (and they'd be fewer holes, of course). But I have some like that elsewhere, and I don't like them much. I especially wanted to avoid them for this space, because this will be deep storage, with boxes or plastic bins, and I was hoping to create little "cubbyholes" that the boxes/bins would just slide right into without a lot of wasted space. For that kind, the triangular brackets take up vertical space (especially since the depth of that alcove is something like 18", and I need brackets that extend about 3/4 of the depth of the shelf). That'll make the back part of the triangle pretty tall. 3.25 inches, according to ClosetMaid. That would mean I'd lose about 2.75 inches for every shelf I have, since I won't be able to slide the box all the way back. Considering that the alcove goes way up to the 9.5-foot ceiling, that's about 15 inches of lost storage space--that's a whole shelf. (Plus, I've found that I don't do well if I have short little gaps on top of boxes; we all end up sticking junk in there, and then it's a pain to get the box out. I avoid that like the plague.) Maybe I'm too picky, or too greedy for every inch of storage, I don't know. But I was hoping to use the kind with the much-less-obtrusive clips, since I do have the opposite sides that I could work with for them. I've got a baseboard around the bottom of the alcove, so I'm going to see how level that is; and I was thinking I could just set the bottom of the standards right on that baseboard. (And of course, draw a vertical line using a level, so they're straight up and down.) Sure, that means the bottom-most slots are unusable, but who cares? At least the standards would all start on a level spot, horizontally. Or, level enough--given that it's a closet, and not on display, being off by 1/8 inch really won't kill anything, I don't think.) And the upper section, I can just set the top standard flush with the one below it. I thought I'd try with the bookcase-style--if the first standard seems too hard, I can always ditch it and switch over to the style you suggest; I won't be out much (I'd probably use those standards some other time, in a bookcase). But I didn't want to give up before I even got started. Lots of times, it's just a matter of thinking it out, planning carefully, and taking your time. I'm willing to put in a lot more work to get something that's more powerful of a solution for me. (Sometimes that's just because I like the challenge.) I suppose the other way I could deal with this (my dad suggested) is to get a piece of plywood to line each side of the alcove with, and attach the standards to that w/ nails (and use anchors and construction adhesive to attach the plywood), but that seems sort of convoluted. Plus, it loses me 1.5 inches of space side-to-side on each shelf, LOL! (talk about greedy for every inch!)

Ginny20--well I wanted to make it as easy as possible (and keep the budget down) as I would have to move the pipes if I move the sink. The dishwasher is very easy to move, and the oven and range hood I think would be easy, maybe run a longer gas line. Trying to do a kitchen remodel on a budget. Found amazing cabinets at a great price, around $1160 for 42" maple (7 cabinets) www.t2cabinet.com Local granite guy my contractor referred me is also giving a great price for Verde peacock with Ogee edge and includes undermount sink for $680, will be a little more to add granite to that side shelf. For under cabinet task lighting (this is a garden unit so I need lots of light) I'm going to go with led rope light high intensity and double layer (I wonder if its too bright but I will get a dimmer, it will also have 60 watt transformer for the power): http://www.hitlights.com/ls3528-wwdl.html Will also get aluminum channels with frosted lens cover (to avoid seeing lots of leds in reflection from granite) http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/housings/gip-series-surface-mount-anodized-aluminum-klus-led-profile-housing/1421/3323/ My contractor is charging $3000 for the remodel which also includes installing new recessed lights and switch and to run tv cable wire in the baseboard-the cable jack is in a horrible location, in the dining room and living room tv is on the other wall next to kitchen so wire will need to be run after we take out the old cabinets, or he could run it in the ceiling. We have 2 cable providers in our building, RCN and Comcast. I have Rcn now but the Comcast cable is close to Rcn. So for future owners if they decide to get Comcast, I would like to make it easy for them to use my Rcn cable run so I think I will install white cable plastic molding along the baseboard so the future owner can tap into it easily. I know the pro way is to run behind wall but its a long distance to go all around to where tv is at. I am considering using a new service I found, you pay for all the parts. They charge $104 annual fee and $25 per hour per handyman, so 2 men is $50 an hr. with a 2 hour minimum. I'm thinking I will need 2 men to remove cabinets, and 2 men to install cabinets. the other things I only need 1 handyman for. Can anyone give me an idea which option they think is better, I imagine I won't save that much going the hourly route. I actually found a charity that will take my old cabinets, counter and sink which is wonderful. Thanks everyone! Also the fridge has wheels, dishwasher has back wheels, but for the oven should I get some felt pads to move it so it doesn't scratch the floor, not sure how big oven legs are, its a 30" oven. Dishwasher is 24", fridge is 30". Also the wood floor behind the cabinets and appliances was never finished. So you kind of see some unfinished wood near the dishwasher and a little by the cabinet base, I have 2 small rugs to cover what I can. I know the proper way is to resand and refinish, is it worth it to do a quick stain to kind of hide it from a distance?

willtv and weedmeister: Thank you for your replies. If you have chanced upon my other thread regarding "flush mount vs reveal mount", you will know what a long and arduous road we have been traveling with our fabricator when it comes to sinks/cutouts. We will have a Silestone countertop ( Lagoon). When he came over to template ( three whole weeks ago)he clearly told me that he would not use the clips provided by our sink manufacturer ( Vigo) but would 'use other clips'. We signed a contract last week specifying that it would only be final contingent upon his meeting all our requests - and we mentioned every one clearly. One of our requests was worded thus:: "Clips and adhesives to be used for attaching undermount sink ( Murofix adhesive is recommended in the Silestone Manual, to join the sink tab to the underside of the countertop)." His secretary ( allegedly) wrote back,saying: " Epoxy will be used to hold sink clips to counter top. Sink is held in place w/sink clips and silicone." This morning, fabricator calls to "clarify" and confirm all our requests. He told DH that he does not use Murofix because it is inferior to "silicone adhesive". He said the secretary made a mistake mentioning clips and said that he will *not* use clips because he has to make a minimum of 14 holes ( 14 because the sink manufacturer, Vigo, apparently specifies that minimum number) to go through the plywood ( 3/4 inch) subtop and the Silestone countertop, for the clips, and that this number of holes would make the whole countertop/sink unit unstable, allowing for cracks to occur. He also said clips are commonly used for Formica. He then said that the sink manufacturer's instructions said that it was left to the discretion of the fabricator to decide exactly how the sink would be installed, depending on the material of the countertop. Finally, he said that if we still wanted clips he would do what we wanted - but , of course, that would be at our own peril. Please, please, please.... either or both of you or anyone else reading this, please let me know if he is correct or incorrect. Any fabricators-members' comments will be very welcome. We have been waiting since August 7th when he did the templating, to get going on the countertop. Are we being too nit-picky? Thanks a lot!!!