It may be just a matter of where the latch screws sit with regard to the bead. Maybe a different latch would work that is sized slightly different?

Pics?
Then someone might be able to advise.

Here is a picture he sent me, thanks!!!

No, you can't use latches there.

For beaded inset, either the bead needs to be modified during construction to accept the latch (not that common) or the latches are used only where two doors meet with no style in between (the usual approach).

What about this?

I meant to add, you can shim up the latch is some way, if you need to use the ones you already have. When people say it can't be done, it usually means they just don't want to take the time and effort to do it.

Thanks guys, the picture gigi posted Iv'e seen the latches done a bunch of times on the bead, just not sure how they did it without the rock. So I will see if maybe he can add wood putty under it to stabalize it or maybe a larger latch there? I really wonder how all these other kitchens like the one gigi posted works out?

You can only use latches properly on butt doors (where two doors come together with no stile).

The latch is to keep the doors from swinging open during the shifts in humidity (or at least that was their original intent, so I was told)

L

In Gigi's example the screws go into the groove. With your latches they sit right on top of the bead.

Marcolo- so would I need a smaller or larger latch there? is there any way u can think of to make it work? add some wood filler under the piece?? tks, Michelle

Also look at Gigi's latch - there is a gap between the 2 pieces. You can see the actual (what is the tongue thing called that actually latches the door?) piece in the middle going across. The sample of yours, the pieces are touching. It looks like if yours was moved over to put the screws into the groove, it would be the same as Gigi's example.

Send Gigi's picture to the cab maker, and see if he can move it over or if you need a bigger latch.

You might need to find new screws too. They'd need to be at least an 1/8" longer.

Personally, I wouldn't do this because I'd be afraid that over time, people pulling on the latch would end up cracking the bead off.

thanks guys, I sent him the picture from Gigi, waiting to hear from him, tks again,m.

i think i would bail on the latches as well. i would be worried about screwing into the seam where that bead is and it breaking over time.

Little clear rubber washers.

But I wouldn't.

I just spoke with him, I think they are going to try and fill it in where the bead is to make it flush, they said they would try and make it work. unforunately, I have to have the latches because on the upper stacked cabinets I have mostly 2 butting doors where it's fine, but then I have this situation in some, so it has to all be cohesive. Make sense? i hope it works! So far Iv'e had alot of hiccups along the way, prob. alot more to come.Tks everyone for your help, Michelle

NO NO NO! Don't put wood filler or anything else in to "fill in" behind the latches. It will NOT stand the test of time. Latches are an inappropriate choice for this door's location or you need a much larger latch.

Cohesive doesn't mean "matching" necessarily - especially if it's going to risk the cabinet's integrity over time. On those particular doors, a knob would be a better choice. Having some latches on the bead and some not will draw more attention to the "differences in their sameness" if you know what I mean.

Agree w/ pearls. You are being consistent by using latches on butt doors and knobs elsewhere. I can't imagine the filler holding up. Hope they have really long screws, and even then.

Skip the latches here instead of trying to rig some halfass kludge that won't hold up. It will look MUCH worse when the latch tears free and it will be a lot harder to do a repair that looks good then. Go with a knob. It's style appropriate and functionally appropriate.

Something like the link or ball catches or one half ball catch and an elbow latch.

Here is a link that might be useful: Touch latch

if it is to be done, which I don't recommend, the bead should be carefully chisled flat and a small piece reglued to give it a flat, square substrate. This will work but will be hard to do so that it does not look 'hacked'.
From a historical perspective, where these items were functional, not decorative, they would not have put them here but used some other option and not worried about the matchiness of them. So, the most 'authentic' route would be to avoid their installation over the beads. :-)

I installed a Crown Point kitchen with latches, and their solution (the hdwre came installed) was that they cut out the bead and inset a solid flush block of wood so the stay would have a flat seat. This of course was in fabrication so everything got painted together. Not impossible to retrofit with a very fine Japanese saw and some decent skills. ( since it's painted, you probably have some touch-up paint)
Casey

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions, I wish I could post my layout, Iv'e tried but I can't, so you could see I have to use the latches at least on the stacked uppers, since some are double doors and they drilled those out already, adding a knob up there next to all those latches would not look right.On the bottom, I have 4 latches total that have the problem with the bead, 1 is a faux latch it's my dishwasher so I will be opening thAT from the pull above. So i only have 3 latches that i will be Using on the bottom where I have this problem. I will suggest the tip about notching out the bead andd adding some solid wood. Iv'e seen so many pictures with the bead in the frame and the latch, would love to hear from others that have this and see if there's has held up okay. i'm pretty stessed out over this, and dreading the rest of the process/ Install is on thursday, my husband is downstairs right now trying to finish plumbing, wATER LINE discovered when he ripped down a wall/ this is sooo not fun!

another shot of the latch situation

last one

What appears to be diferent to me, regarding Michelles application and Gigis picture is that the bead is not flush with the faceframe on Michelles cabinets, and it is in Gigis pictures. Ever so slighty different, but when youre dealing with 1/2 inch of bearing point, a small amount is big.

Notching out the bead, and inserting a block, is certainly possible, like mentioned above.. But, if you look at where the screws are in relation to where the ends of the flat block will be, I'm thinking theres a huge risk of splitting the block when the catch screws are installed..

Please consider using knobs. Glass knobs are very much in keeping with latches, same era. You really don't want to harm the integrity/strength of your beautiful cabinets.

i second the suggetion to use knobs. vintage kitchens had a mixture of hardware. get a complimenting knob to the latches and pulls, it will look just fine.

And, having had latches in my previous house, I would not want latches on "every day" cabinets if I could help it. The cabinet at the ceiling that you open a couple times a year to get a platter out? Sure. The over the fridge cabinet? Sure.

The cabinet where your kids' sippy cups live? No way. The cabinet where the plates live? Nope.

On the last picture that is not a close up, the size of the latch looks way too small. IMHO. Maybe they are just not properly sized?

I went with the smaller rejuvination ones that babushka and everyone else from the forum recommended?

Before you have the cabinet people put putty on the cabinets please get a larger latch and see if it would work with your cabinets. Is it just a couple doors in the base cabinets or are there single doors in the uppers as well? If it's just the base cabinets consider using knobs only on the base cabinet doors and latches on the uppers. I do agree that crystal knobs would look really nice in you kitchen and would ultimately function better as well.

Hi cam, tks for your reply. Yes I have to use the latches on the stacked uppers. They already drilled for those. There are only 2 with the single door bead problem, not a problem he can fill them, they will not get any use anyway being up so high.So my problem is with the 4 lower doors. One is a faux latch(my dishwasher which will be opened by the pull) So it is only 3 spots where it gets use. If he feels it will not be sturdy, maybe I could do the icebox latches there they look alittle larger. I don't think i should just do a larger size of what I have, might look funny??? In that case if none of those options work I will have to put maybe a drop style pull? i have the glass knobs on my glass upper cabinet doors, not sure how I would like them on the lower doors though. This is really stressing me out! the hardware has by far been the worst of it for me so far! can you believe it, something most people wouldn't think would be so grueling!! I appreciate all the ideas, keep them coming!!! THANKS! michelle

I definitely wouldn't recommend 2 different size latches. I was thinking more replacing all the latches for the larger size.

Are the cabinets in or is he adding the latches in the shop? I'd get the cabinets installed with all the other latches on and then decide on the last 4. If you get some pictures at that point I'm sure someone on here would have the perfect option for you :)

I'll admit, I'm having a hard time seeing a "faux latch" in my mind's eye.

when you were deciding on what hardware and size to use, you left out a key detail - the bead! that would affect the size and how to attach it. i would not freak out, your kitchen will be perfectly lovely when it is done.

Babushka, do u think I should use the larger size for all of them then? i didn't think it made a difference. i have seen the latch on the bead in tons of kitchen magazines. never thought of this, and apparantely they didn't either!I called rejuvination though and asked them(told them my situation) they actually said the catch is the same size in the small and larger version. the only difference she said is the part with the knob is larger. so, i don't think that would really help me. i know someone posted it looks too small on my cabinet, but personally I have seen the smaller one on your kitchen, katieob, katekouros and jbrodie,and lolaurens, and really liked it. i didn't want the latch to be too big and in your face, make sense?

grlwprls- when I said faux latch, I meant the dishwasher will be paneled. he assured me I can have a pull on the draw part and a latch on the door part. I didn't quite get it either but he said yes it would work? I would then open the dishwasher by the pull.

" I'd get the cabinets installed with all the other latches on and then decide on the last 4."

Do this. They can take doors back after you decide if they need to work on them at shop. You don't have to decide now. See the doors in place.

Sorry reply is so choppy, using iPhone.

Bee

Bee your amazing! always trying to help, even when you are on vacation! Your the best! really! I will talk to him on Monday, hopefully they didn't drill everything!

i think the small latches where there is no bead is fine. i would not do the latest with the bead, mix it up with some knobs and i will look fine.

Ditto what babushka said.

Michelle,

I know how disappointed you must be and you may have already resolved this problem. Style wise we are VERY similar in our choices. I LOVE latches. My husband does not. I am compromising by using latches up high and on display cabinet and then I am going to use glass knobs on the other doors. It is very consistent with a kitchen from 1900-1940's at least.
I know that we cannot see your entire layout and you probably are so set in your decision but I having the bead fail or break off would be horrible. We have a very old kitchen in our house with an original cabinet from the 1880's. The doors are inset and there are icebox latches on the cabinet BUT the bead is FLUSH with the door not raised as yours is.

GOOD LUCK! I see your cabinet door detail very well from your pictures. That was my second choice door style. I like it very much. Mine had a slightly rounded inner edge with out the flat part. I was worried the flat part would be a dust catcher. I think they only look different from up close though.

Pball- so is yours the same style bead without the flat part or is it a tighter bead like what is on a beaded frame? they did get the latches to work, they notched it out slightly so it sits flush, it was only 3 doors that had the issue, others were 2 butting doors together.

So glad they fixed it. Now you don't have to use another knob or catch. I am sure it would have looked fine but I know you had a vision of what you wanted in your head.

I think you are referring to my old cabinet that I described not my new cabinets which are not yet made but I have only selected the doors style ( without bead right now). I expect if I go without a bead I should be fine with my new cabinets if I install a latch.
My old cabinet has a fairly flat bead ( it could be due to age and all the years of use but I think it originally was pretty flat) more like a groove so that the one side of the latch can sit level with the door. The part on the stile is installed slightly offset of the bead not directly over it, but as a result it just barely engages with the catch.

I hope that is your last glitch!