Quilt girl--that's really beautiful. No, my setup works fine even if you wanted to go the scribed route. But, I guess I became concerned a few weeks ago when I read on here that the granite/countertop would have to be removed to change out the sink if the sink ever needed to be replaced. But, with a larger sink base that was not the case. The sink could be easily replaced from underneath without removing the countertop. Too late for my kitchen, but thought I might save you a little trouble by mentioning it. Hopefully, the sink in my kitchen will last forever. Good luck in whatever you decide.

First question: what kind of apron-front sink? Some are meant to sit atop a cabinet that's been cut down to recieve the sink. That'd be like the stainless steel or copper ones, and maybe some fireclay sinks with more regular rectangular shape. There's a thread on here (I think bichonlover started it) where Poorowner and I responded with pictures about our stainless apron front sink installations. Here's a picture of my sink. It's in a same-size cabinet with two dishwasher panels on either side. You could get away with not using the dw panels, but I needed them to deal with a spacing issue, and to cut down on dw noise. Some (and I'm thinking about the handmade Shaw's and other fireclay ones) are meant to go into an apron-front cabinet that's had a cutout in the blank apron front to receive the sink. Thus the cabinet has to be wide enough to hold the sink and still have some space on either side of the sink for the cutout. I think I've seen Shaw's owners with 33" sinks in a 36" cabinet, and the like.

I have almost NO room at all under mine. The garbage disposal just about fills it. In fact, if you look closely on the left door you can see the black marks were it rubs against the inside of the door. The GC had to rout out some relief to get the door to close completely. I also had to carefully wrap all the hanging cords around the drain pipe to clear a bit of storage space above the pipe for the fertilizer and watering bottle for my plants. Still, I got the sink and the look I wanted that has the sink sitting forward, seemingly on the legs (that's what brought the disposal up against the door). Think about what you want under there. I could have gotten a smaller disposer (I compost so use it infrequently). And I don't use a lot of cleaners. I also don't have things under there like instant hot water or a soap dispenser -- just the guts of an airswitch. If you want those things think about where they'll all go. All in all I'm very happy with the look and the storage works for me. But you should be aware going in that it's sparce!

Nicole: If the end pieces I pictured above were missing, you'd be looking at an exposed cabinet style and the top and bottom rail on each end and a hole between the three. The drawer end covers the void and makes your eye continue the line from the doors upward. A flush piece in the void would have to fit perfectly, be finished matched, would not continue the line, and would therefore look stupid. You're not going to find any pictures because no one would ever go through that much work for something that's not going to look good. Here's a full size 33" apron sink properly mounted in a 36" cabinet. The distance from the cabinet end to the sink apron end will be 3" on your job, not the 1 1/2" pictured here which I admit doesn't look too bad. That sink was replaced by this short apron Elkay Quartz Luxe. The bottom of the apron now lines up with the adjacent drawer bottom, and there is virtually no cabinet face exposed which I think looks better. I made the customer find a factory painted color match trim (you provide, you agree color matches) which I installed above and flush with the top of the middle rail to fill the gap. That didn't have to fit nearly as nicely as flush side fillers would have to, because only the person reaching under the sink will ever see it.