I would definitely try and see about the cabs size. You can also recess the fridge if there is room behind the wall. That is what we did in a former house.

Good luck!

Here is what a normal depth fridge looks like with 30" deep cab and panels. Unless you do something clever, you probably lose some space in the back of the upper cab, no easy way to get to it but I wasn't worried about that. The 36" wide x 30" deep upper is a monster, be sure they plan accordingly for how to support it.

We could not recess the fridge as there is a stair case behind it, but we're very happy with the way it turned out.

(Ignore the temporary plywood counters ;-)

I wanted a full size fridge but I knew it would stick out too far so I went with a counter depth one.

Why wouldn't the GC have kept it like that? How would he know you did not intend for it to be that way, you had drawings from a kitchen designer and or architect, no? You signed off on the design, correct?

TO: Millworkman: No need for such a snarky reply. No, we didn't have a kitchen designer OR an architect. This is a case wherein we're trying to get our Hurricane Sandy wrecked house put back together with limited funds (guess you've heard about the nightmares FEMA is putting us through). I would like to think that anyone with 20/20 eyesight could tell this is wrong even without a certificate in kitchen design.

It looks like your fridge is right up against the wall too. Can you open the doors enough to pull out the shelves and bins for cleaning?

It's the "standard" way of doing a fridge enclosure from most cabinet companies, as many don't even offer 30" deep panels. Unless the client specifically states that they will be using a full depth fridge and want 30" deep side panels (that the company does offer) then this is what is "usually" done by a KD who doesn't specifically ask about the specs of the appliances going into the space. If you wanted an alcove designed for a full depth fridge, that should have been communicated (in writing) to the GC and KD. I'm surprised that you didn't have to provide a list of the appliance models that you were using so that the design could be double checked against their clearances and issues of this type. If they were provided with your appliance specs, and you requested an alcove for a full depth refrigerator, then they need to remove that and order replacements.

How many inches does it stick out? Im glad you brought this up because Im afraid mine might stick out this much too.

That's standard. My new cabinets are like that, which is a huge improvement over the still somewhat common 12 in deep over fridge cabinet. Yes, they are still around, my BIL just put one in his remodel last year.

I did get a 30 in deep oven cabinet as I was set on having a tiny section be 30 inches deep. The up charge was not insignificant. Sometimes my stubbornness has consequences.

So sorry you are having to deal with the FEMA crap. The little bit in the pic looks very nice though, hopefully you will love it when it's done!

What did you intend for your GC to do? You have a standard size fridge with standard size cabinets. You could have ordered deeper cabinets to enclose the fridge or you could have spoken with the GC about recessing the fridge to make it more flush, but GC couldn't and/or shouldn't have done either of those things on his own.

I am so sorry TS Sandy tore so many lives apart, including yours.

Perhaps you could look into 27" panels at least, which typically leaves the side of the doors revealed as stainless. Bring the 24" cabinet 3" more forward.

If nothing can be adjusted with your cabinets, checking with your appliance dealer if a gray refrigerator box is an option may help mitigate your problem.

actually if you want anything other than standard cabinet depth you have to specify exactly what you want.

it's not even as simple as saying specs to fit around a counter-depth of standard-depth refrigerator, because standard-depth refrigerators are actually different depths.

you need to go to the store to measure the depth of the refrigerator you want (minus the door), and use that spec to see if the cabinet maker will custom-build that panel size. the cabinet doesn't usually need to be rebuilt, because it can be pulled forward to match the panel.

We had to specify a deeper refrigerator enclosure to our cabinet maker, as it was an added expense. Otherwise, it would have been the standard 24" depth. Ours is 29" deep, including the cabinet above the refrigerator.

I'm sure that your cabinet maker would go with a standard 24" deep enclosure, unless he was told otherwise by you or the GC. A deeper enclosure is more expensive, as there is more material required to build it. You can try negotiating with your GC on that issue but I would not blame the cabinet maker.

I'm sorry that you are distraught over this detail of your kitchen after all you've been through with the hurricane. I have to agree with some of the comments that this is not entirely unusual. I have seen many kitchens where a full depth fridge extends past the cabinetry. This is why so many people (myself included) opt for a counter depth refrigerator and others recess the full depth refrigerators. Hopefully you can work with your GC or cabinet maker to resolve the situation to your satisfaction. Take a deep breath and hopefully with a little time and patience you will be enjoying your new kitchen soon.

Yes, mine will be the same way, as making the enclosure even 2 inches deeper would have been a couple of hundred dollars more (and I am pretty much out of money).

I won't really like the way it looks, but it will have to do for now. I may try pulling everything forward and cover the gaps with trim of some kind though.

I'm sorry you're going through all of this.

My KD planned for the deeper panels around my counter-depth refrigerator - 30" (even b/f I brought it up based on what I had seen here on GW!) Our contractor then cut them to fit.

Unfortunately, most GCs are clueless when it comes to design details like this.

I would check with your GC and ask how much it would cost to:

(1) Get two finished panels (one for each side) that are at least as deep as your refrigerator carcass + 1" (to accommodate plugs, anti-tip devices, water line, etc.) I'd probably add at least 3". Keep in mind that the panels cannot be any deeper than the refrigerator carcass - the doors must stick out past the panels to be able to open them fully for access and for cleaning (removing bins/drawers, etc.).

(2) Re-install the panels and cabinet...you shouldn't need a new cabinet - just pull it out so it's flush with the front of the panels...although there may be some finagling to get it mounted properly since it won't be against the back wall or ceiling (if you have crown molding instead of cabs up to the ceiling) - but it will be b/w two end panels. [I'm not a cabinet installer, so I don't know all the details of how this is done.]

About the right side - do you have enough space to open the right refrigerator door fully? (I know someone else asked, but I didn't see an answer.)

Here's mine:

The 26" finished end panel covers the entire black side of the refrigerator plus the gap behind the refrigerator. It looks much more finished this way. The depth of the end panel was determined by the depth of the refrigerator carcass (24-1/8") + the depth of the gap b/w the refrigerator & the back wall (approx 1-7/8"). [The gap was the space needed for the required air clearance, the plug, anti-tilt mechanism, and the plumbing for the ice maker & water dispenser. Only 1/2" air clearance was needed, so whatever was needed to accommodate the other items determined the back spacing.]

[Edited for typos]

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to slideshow describing how I built in a refrigerator

This post was edited by buehl on Tue, Jul 2, 13 at 1:01

One other thing to consider if you have any other deep cabinets next to the fridge would be trim. The more different depths of trim you have, the more trim you need (minor) and the more you'll pay in labor for the install (major).

Just one note about 30" - the top of the line Samsungs and LGs (and maybe other refrigerators) won't fit correctly in a 30" enclosure. For my Samsung, the depth minus door is (28.75") - this is not a depth they advertise, but one I had to measure. For this model they recommend 2" space at back for air circulation, so that's 30.75". The top-end Samsung requires either a half inch or full inch more (I can't remember which).

Seaswirl - so sorry what you and so many others have gone through from Sandy. I'm sure that it must be very frustrating to have to deal with all of this and the difficulties it's caused for you and your family. Doubtless, the GCs in the area are working overtime to try to help all the families that need them and I hope that's why it's been so tough to get in touch with your guy.

When we were doing our kitchen planning, it was VERY important that we let the cabinet people know that we wanted the "boxed area" to cover as much of the fridge as possible. They mostly seemed surprised at this request. It is "standard" to have it the way yours is shown.

That being said, I would check with your GC to see if he can get matching side panels that would extend out the depth of the fridge and then take the doored cabinet and sandwich it in there, pulling it forward so that you'll have a gap area in the back that won't have storage. This would be at a cost to you, of course, but if you are truly unhappy with it (I would be), it may be worth the additional expense.

Now, if this is being covered under some type of insurance and it is "replacement value" and your cabinetry covered the fridge before then you may have cause to go to the insurance company and see what they specified in their write up.

I hope that the rest of the kitchen (and the rest of the house) are coming back together for you and that you'll be able to enjoy your home once again.