My neighbor and I both have the single and both have been installed for about 7 years, both as overmount(drop-in) and both installed by two different people in two different ways. My neighbor has a garbage disposal and is installed with undermounted wood supports in standard, framed cabinets. We have no garage disposal and are installed in the older style ikea cabinets with the ikea metal supports. My neighbor drilled out the other two holes (total of three) for sink accessories, we just used the original single hole. Barkeepers friend is your friend for stains. Make a paste in the sink, lightly scrub all over, leave it for a while - anywhere from a few minutes to overnight and rinse away for a blinding white sink. I only do this about 3-6 months. I watched my neighbors' pet over the holidays and cleaned their kitchen for a surprise gift and some physical therapy for me. Their sink became shiney white with the same treatment. We have a few small chips, no cracks. My neighbor has no cracks and quite a lot of chips. I would say my neighbor is more a "normal user" with kids and we're a freshly elderly couple. Both of us have ikea wood counters with issues around the sink - even thought the counters are finished in two different ways and use different sealants. We have issues with a splashy faucet that they don't have but both seem to have issues with water piling up at the mounting.

Yes, I realize that. I meant here on the Houzz site - or perhaps on the IKEA Hacker's site. It would be great to see exactly how to adjust the non-apron sink cabinet to fit an apron sink. We have to do it nonetheless, so I might take pictures and post if I can't find anything else. Our sink is not as heavy as the 30" sink inserted into into a 30" cabinet, so the framing requirements should not be as stringent. Plus, the methodology there was to combine two cabinets together.

I have a 30" farmhouse sink and I just went and measured my Rohl faucet. It is 10 and 1/2 inches. I can't remember if they called this a 10 or 11 inch reach. Anyway, I went with the longer version that they offered even with my 30 inch sink. I did this because in my other home I am used to this very long faucet (maybe 14 inches) that I have on this huge double sink. It's probably a bit long but I was used to it and I was afraid if I got a short one on my Shaw's sink that I would not like it. Truthfully, I think my Rohl at times is a bit long and gets in the way, but I think the shorter version would have been too short to suit me. I would have to think that with a 36" sink you would want at least a 10 inch. Are you going to have a spray? Hopefully someone with a 36" sink will chime in soon.

I only want to say you should try to have the apron not very curved - some of the apron sinks have curved fronts that protrude more than others. I am saying this because apron front sinks have the ergonomic advantage of having your body be right up against the sink instead of having to lean slightly over several inches of countertop the way you would with an undermount sink. But by adding a big curve, you are foregoing that advantage. You can find very nice stainless steel apron front sinks for not that much money. Don't be taken in by brand names. Most of the big brands like Franke and Blanco source their stainless steel sinks from China, just like the lower-end names do, so you are pay more for a brand name made of the same material as the non-brand name. Look for 16-gauge stainless, not 18-gauge (16-gauge is thicker). All stainless steel sinks will scratch, regardless of manufacturer. So look for a sink that comes with a grid that will help protect against scratches. Flat-front apron front stainless steel sink 30 inches Selection of curved and flat apron front stainless steel sinks at Overstock