IKEA Farmhouse Sink- Pics & Opinions please!
15 years ago
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- 15 years ago
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Farm-house sink Vs double bowl sink
Comments (11)Believe me, there are NO plumbing issues involved. What MAY be an issue is finding a hardware store--or other source--for the parts you need to do a changeover. The best thing you can do for yourself is get down and climb under your present sink, the neighbor's sink, your family member's sinks, and familiarize yourself with the plumbing that's under there !! While you're down there, check for leaks, and use a ruler/tape measure to get an idea of sizes. Bathroom sinks are usually 1 1/4" diameter thinwall pipe; the tub/shower and the kitchen sink are, or should be, 1 1/2". One thing to remember: the 1 1/2" thinwall pipe hooked directly to the bottom of your sink, and tied into the "S" or "P" traps under there, is NOT NOT NOT the same as the 1 1/2" drain piping; HOWEVER--there are adapters to mate the thinwall to the heavier piping. By the way, you ARE gonna go to the store and find out what a "P" or "S" trap is, aincha?? Dont be afraid to ask Q's, and do realize many of the guys you ask are about as ignorant as you are when it comes to plumbing....many--not all of 'em. THEN: when you find somebody who sounds like (s)he can help you do this project, and they put down on paper the parts you need, the best thing you can do is repeat the process--go find somebody else at another store who can do likewise, and then compare the parts recommended, &c. Maybe this soundz like plumbing 101--you're right, it is. Anything else spellz disaster in the making, not to mention the resultant feeling you bin ripped off and jerked around, and that you coulda done a better job yourself.... if only.... you'd taken to heart the suggestion of: kenn 1RmSchlHse millersport oHIo -- there's a time and place for spontaneity.......See MoreFinished Kitchen: Circa 1840 Working Farmhouse, IKEA Budget Reno
Comments (107)this is a gorgeous kitchen! More on India ink as stain: I've used it on furniture a lot. Be SURE you get permanent India ink. It has some shellac in it to make it more waterproof. It has amazing coverage. I have done an entire armchair frame with only an ounce or two. It's also very messy if you drip it, so wear old clothes and get some disposable latex gloves. It may raise the grain on some woods. Sand the wood smooth before applying it, then do a very light sanding after it's completely dry, if it feels at all rough. Apply a second coat if the sanding removes any of the color. The color is a warm black. It's opaque but the grain of the wood will show through, unlike with paint. It's a pretty unique finish. I have never used Waterlox over my ink finishes, since they were furniture. I think you do need something though--the finish doesn't seem to be super permanent even though the ink is labeled permanent. (That's more for when it's used on paper, not furniture or counters that get a lot of wear and tear.) I used beeswax on the furniture which seemed to seal the ink pretty well. I don't think I would use it on wooden chair seats, though. Too much risk of rubbing off on clothing down the road....See MorePlease help me with Farmhouse/apron sink
Comments (6)I do not have one, but I've wanted one! I cannot answer all your questions, but just a couple. I think the choice of double or single bowl depends a lot on the size of the sink. If you are going to go with the 30" size, then single bowl would be better - a double bowl sink in a 30" size may mean that neither bowl is big enough to soak roasting pans, cookie sheets, etc. If you go to a 33" or 36" sink, then the choice is personal preference and your cooking/cleaning style. I myself have a single bowl sink and would never go back to a double, but there are just as many people who would only have a double bowl sink. What have you used and liked or disliked in the past? The advantages of stainless apron front over the traditional fireclay apron front sink are: less expensive, easier to install (fireclay can have uneven dimensions and therefore be harder to scribe the countertops around it), lighter so easier to install, will not chip, and you won't need a drain flange for a disposal (fireclay is thick so in order to install a disposal you would need to buy a longer drain flange). Disadvantages are: the look is not traditional the way fireclay is, and stainless shows water spots and scratches (the scratches develop into a patina over time, so I wouldn't worry about that). Regarding faucets, there are SO many choices. I would make sure that you get a sprayer faucet so that you can easily clean into all the corners. I myself prefer a faucet with an integrated sprayer, rather than a side sprayer. You get better water pressure with an integrated sprayer, and a side sprayer means you have to hold onto the handle for the spray to stay on. Pay attention to the reach of the faucet - that dimension is available on all the brands' websites. You don't want the reach to be too short so that you have to reach far into the sink to grab it. I will link below to a thread with 100+ posts showing faucets, and you can see if any appeal to you. There was an interesting thread that I will link regarding SS apron front sinks, and whether to get a curved or straight front. It has some nice photos, and people also posted the names of their sinks, so I think it will be of use to you. I will link it below. As to brands, I have read on this forum that people really like their Kraus sinks and their Ticor SS stainless sinks; both are heavier 16 gauge. I think Ticor also offers stainless apron front sink with "zero radius" corners, which I would stay away from - those zero radius corners tend to collect gunk. Ticor also offer sinks with "tight radius" corners that will have a very slight curve, which would be easier. A nice kitchen with a SS apron front sink is Hobokenkitchen's. She bought hers as an inexpensive no-name on eBay. Thread Called Which Kitchen Faucet Did You Pick? Thread called SS Apron Sinks - Curved or Straight Front Hobokenkitchen's Kitchen with eBay SS Apron Front Sink Kraus Apron Front Sinks Ticor SS Apron Front Sinks...See MorePics of apron/farmhouse sinks mounted above counter
Comments (17)just wanted to commiserate with you on the plumbing problems. We have an old house were the plumbing was added later. They dug under one end of the house about 10x10 with an exterior entrance, and all the plumbing was put on that corner. We wanted to put in a bathroom closer to the bedrooms and move the kitchen, so we had to run the pipes under what would be the new bathroom floor. Kitchen sink had to be installed on the same wall as the bathroom sink, with the pipes and drain/venting going through the wall into the bathroom cabinet, then down into the floor. As it was, the distance was almost too long for the drop and to still be able to hook up to the outgoing line. That would have required a lift pump in the cellar, not something we wanted to consider. This is the bathroom side of the wall. If we ever have problems, our cheapest solution will be to hand dig a trench under the bathroom to access the pipes. Hope that never happens. I don't think we would have room for a garbage disposal either, as the drain goes into the wall and then down. Since we have a septic system, doing without a disposal was not a hard choice....See MoreRelated Professionals
Four Corners Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Wentzville Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · South Farmingdale Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Bloomingdale Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Glen Allen Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Hunters Creek Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Los Alamitos Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Winchester Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Alafaya Cabinets & Cabinetry · Indian Creek Cabinets & Cabinetry · Lakeside Cabinets & Cabinetry · Murray Cabinets & Cabinetry · Sunset Cabinets & Cabinetry · Warr Acres Cabinets & Cabinetry · Cornelius Tile and Stone Contractors- 15 years ago
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