One reason that Corian always rates highly with installers is that DuPont really does stand behind its product and they are known as the most responsive to installers/customers complaints. This is not a small thing; no matter what product you pick as a countertop, it can be ruined by poor installation and having to fight with the mfg to get satisfaction is not a pleasant thought after spending $$ of dollars. I personally chose Swanstone as we've been very satisfied with its performance and carefree maintenance, plus it has a slightly higher heat resistance than Corian. Like DuPont, Swanstone insists upon factory-trained installation for kitchen countertops. But I do think some of Corian's colors are more pleasing. One thing that might swing you either way - most solid surface mfgs, including DuPont, only offer their integral sinks in a few colors. I think Swanstone is the only one that offers their Swanstone sinks in all 38 colors, same as their countertops.

Ahhh Liriodendron you and I have the same ideas as to crazy-quilt kitchens that fit an old house. Our 1890 bungalow was just begging for a working kitchen with multiple surfaces that spoke to their uses and origins. On the sink and cooktop run I have teak. My cabinet maker called a friend who had 2 pieces left and was able to secure them and make them into a countertop for me. I have an antique soapstone sink mounted in the sink run. Don't know what kind of soapstone. It came from the salvage place I used in New Hampshire. That is 2 . The baking run is made of 2 remnant slabs of 30" wide soapstone from the salvage place I used in New Hampshire. I have no idea what origin. That makes 3. The coffee counter is Sylacauga Alabama marble. It has a lot of history. It was a piece salvaged from a building in Columbus GA, 45 min away from us. I found the piece in a field, in a pile of salvaged stone out in the country near our home. The man had purchased all that he could find at a GA salvage yard and let me pick out one piece I could carry home. I love it. It has the original beveled edge placed to the front. That makes 4. My movable island work table is a utility piece from Tabco tables and has a BB top and galvanized metal shelves. That makes 6. My adjacent sunroom/potting room seen from the kitchen , is where I do a lot of utilitarian cleaning up and prep of messy things when I am canning etc. I have a different soapstone, don't know what kind, that has a lot more veins but it looks wonderful with the huge Alberene soapstone sink. This sink has the metal makers-mark still affixed to the front. That makes 8. In the center of this room is a small antique work table that I purchased from a friend's flea market shop, it is made of oak and has a porcelain white metal top. So that makes 10. I too derive much pleasure from the collectedness of each piece and its history, although I don't have the wonderful personal history that you are so lucky to have. I look forward to seeing your kitchen and delight in reading your descriptions. c

Hi there, just wanted to share our walnut island top refinishing experience. We got our 2" thick, 72" x 36" walnut top unfinished. My finish carpenter cut the piece and routed the edges. I sanded to 320 with an orbital sander, and then finished with hand sanding. Did this outside on the covered porch because it creates such a mess (red dust everwhere). Took me a couple of hours to get it where I wanted. We then moved it into the garage (to keep smell away from kids) where I applied the waterlox finish (6 days, 6 coats). Lightly sanded b/w coats 2, 4 & 5. Directions say to get it fixed in place no later than one week after delivery to avoid warping (we did it at day 8). Make sure you do this b/c ours started to warp ever so slightly --you can only see it if you examine unerneath closely. (we live by the water and received this during a heatwave!!) I applied waterlox to all sides to further protect it from warping. After we did the underside, we flipped it and put it on boards with screws sticking out to keep it elevated while we finished the top side. It is a lot of work, but saved at least $1500 doing it myself. Here is the finished picture (we still need to do the final steel wool at the one month mark when fully cured) (excuse the mess we are getting ready for painting). we got our top at the hardwood lumber company $900 delivered. ($150 for truck delivery), but this was for 2" thick. PS I am a petite woman who is only slightly handy and I had help only to move the piece into place -- so if I can do it you can!! It was a little stressful because I was terrified I would ruin it -- but it came out fine. : ) Good luck and be patient. Here is a link that might be useful: hardwood lumber company

These are my pics of my countertops placed Friday June 22, 2018. I cried looking at these seams. It looks so cheap. Fabricator explains that's the way it comes. I explained that I shouldn't be able to see the seams so clearly. It looks so unprofessional. They ended up taking them back to their warehouse. In hopes they say if it is quality control will try and fix it just to make it look better. Otherwise I will have to pay an additional fee for them to come out again to install. I just don't know what to do and if still looks the same. This is the first time I've replaced my counters in 24 years. I don't and can't live with it. looking at this for another 24 years. It looks so cheap and it really was not it's a lot of money to me. I hope fingers crossed that they will fix this problem. They never told me that there would be such seams. I thought the edges were done by a machine and it would be all one piece. I have read up on this and now understand there are seams. But now I do know that they should not look like this. If they are good fabricator you shouldn't be able to see them so clearly. I will find out next week what happens.