Aisle widths...The NKBA has recommendations of minimum aisles... 6: Work Aisle The width of a work aisle should be at least 42" for one cook and at least 48" for multiple cooks. Measure between the counter frontage, tall cabinets and/or appliances. I would aim for 42" for each aisle for an aisle with no seating (but no less than 36" and only if you have no DW or oven opening into it). 8: Traffic Clearance at Seating In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner [and not a work aisle or appliances], allow 32" of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area. a. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36" to edge past. b. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 44" to walk past. Since you have appliances behind the island on the seating side (as well as doorways), you should aim for at least 54" b/w the counter edge to the appliance. Are you planning on getting rid of the door directly behind the island? It looks like a basement door, so I don't think you can w/o moving the stairs. All that noted, your kitchen isn't deep enough for those aisles, so you need to make some decisions on how functional you want your kitchen vs what you want, regardless of how it functions. Standard wall runs of cabinets are 25.5" deep...24" cabinet + 1.5" overhang Seating overhang for counter-height should be a minimum of 15" (and skimping won't help...people will take the same amount of space while seated regardless of overhang depth...they'll just be less comfortable with a too-shallow overhang. A human body can be squeezed only so much...) [I was thinking about this Wednesday night as I was seated at an island w/12" overhang for a meeting...no one was able to sit close to the island edge, we were all pushed back and had to lean in to get to the surface of the island...it wasn't very comfortable.] So, if you want an island w/seating in a kitchen, this is what you need for a kitchen depth: 25.5" sink run + 42" aisle + (25.5" on cabinet side of island + 15" seating overhang) + 54" aisle = 162" (13'6") You have 150" or 12'6"...so 12" short. (24" sink run cabinets + 39" aisle + + 42" island + 45" aisle = 150") [That 13' measurement includes the bay window) Now, you can reduce the aisle a little, but not much. Say, make the aisle behind the island 48" to gain 6". However, you're still 6" short. Since the DW is on the aisle b/w the island & sink run, narrowing the aisle 6" isn't really a good idea. Maybe 3", but not 6". Your only real option is to take the extra 3" to 6" from behind the island. But, as Bmorepanic noted, it will limit what you can do when someone is sitting at the island. So, what are you doing w/the bay window space? Have you considered expanding the kitchen into that area and using the DR for all meals and the island for snacks? Dishwasher...I suggest...

We are having the counters on one side 27" deep, i.e. 3" deeper than standard. Our base cabinets are the standard 24" deep, and we pulled them out 3" from the wall. And don't forget that your granite overhang will add an additional 1-1/4" or so. We don't have them installed yet, but we are anticipating more roomy countertops. Our coffee maker, toaster, etc., won't be crowding the counter workspace either. Also, we have a Kitchenaid dishwasher. The Kitchenaid DW's tend to stick out a little, not be flush with 24" deep cabinets. But it won't be a problem for us cause our cabinets are pulled out. Furthermore, our uppers will be 15" deep, i.e. also 3" deeper than standard. I have seen a number of threads on this forum complaining of 12" deep uppers that don't fit their dishes or platters. Won't be a problem with our 15" uppers. Our kitchen is small, which is why we are doing the deeper counters on only one side. Here are a couple more threads for you to read: Thread about Base Cabinets Depth Thread about Upper Cabinets Depth

" The KD says that I could, but the others won't fit as perfectly" and she wouldn't get her cut of those innards either! Go with what is best for YOU and what you can afford. Some innards you can add cheaper later when the shock of the cost of the reno wears off your bank acct. good to hear someone w/ drawers that are so deep and long work out good in the kitchen. can you use a bottom deep drawer (pantry space) for your cat food cans? extra stored in the far back? I do think a rot or 2 up higher for canned goods/bottled items would be better than a drawer. figure out about how many types of canned goods you use and how many of each you like to have on hand. I found I don't use as many canned goods as I did yrs ago. And even if I keep a 6 mo. supply on hand (it's just me here) in many cases that might only mean 6-8 cans of the 'type'. If you get a basic idea of the types and # needed you can probably figure out how many rots you'd need. Wouldn't use 1 whole rot for say canned soup, would you? But you could put like items on the same rot. veggies, misc (beans, tomato types) etc. Might want a bit deeper sided rot for bottles depending on what size you usually buy in. largest size? medium? small size? lots in bottles - mayo, pickles, salad dressings, vinegar etc. you might do them in rows on the rot - soups in left row, beans in center left row, tomato stuff in center right row, veggies in right row... these days I only keep 2 types of soup on hand. crm mushroom for cooking and chicken noodle in case I get sick and need it. 3-4 in a yr would be enough for me (alone). maybe you could use a sort of deep drawer in the pantry area (above cat food?) for snack stuff - chips, pretzels, popcorn... just stuff to help jog your thinking as you go forward. I understand it all being overwhelming. It doesn't take much to do that to me these days. I got overwhelmed with moving and dropped the idea of changes in the kitchen! well, until maybe this coming yr changing one lower cabinet into drawers... but that's not that major. When I moved I put all gadget things that I didn't use at least every week into a plastic bin on the pantry shelf. Took them out as I used them. If it then made sense to keep the thing I put it in a drawer or another bin. As the yr went on everything still in the 1st bin got tossed or if something used once a yr into a plastic bin to live in the laundry room. the other bin in the pantry now holds things I do need occasionally (I only have 6 drawers in the kitchen).

Interesting thoughts about the narrowness causing the issue. In my head, the space is "bigger" because a 60x30 shower base gives you more room to move then a standard 60x30 tub as the tub walls restricts the space you can stand in. On a previous thread the vote was for a curtain as no one wants to clean glass doors in a shower. Should we reconsider? We took out old sliding glass doors in our own bath and replaced it with a curtain. Yes, sometimes the kids did not make sure the curtain was in the tub and the floor flooded. Are newer sliding glass doors easier to clean? We were originally planning on acrylic shower wall panels, considered swanstone and now are leaning toward tile. DH has much tile experience including a shower so he feels if we are going to spend the money for swanstone we should put it toward tile. However, the floor will not be redone at this time. It's laminate and still in great condition and is interconnected to the hallway and kitchen. In a few years that will be the next project and it all will be replaced. The bathroom with tile.