If you have screw in recessed can fixtures and want to visualize the mini pendants without doing the can tearout first--you can pick up a couple of recessed can/mini pendant light conversion kits--Lowes carries a couple (nickel Model #: MPA-1PNK or antique bronze [Model #: MPA-1JBZ]) with no bulb or shade that screws into the existing edison socket, has a decorative base that covers the recessed can. You can play with different light shades as well. We did this for our remodel, and never bothered to do the formal can tearout. I think there may be other conversion kits at Lowes, but the cover and the shade did not match our kitchen. Hope this helps.

Checked out Hubbardton Forge, nice stuff, not exactly the right sizes or colors. But a very nice line. While at Lamps Plus I did see the Kichler Montara Collection 24 1/2" Wide Pendant light with umber glass. It's a bit old world and might have to be shortened but the price was certainly right! I've also seen ONLINE this porcelain fixture, but I hate to buy something like this sight unseen! I have about 114" from the beam to the floor and a pendant will spread the light better as well as look better mounted on the beam. That leaves about 7 ft from the floor and this will/should sit over the large square glass/wood coffee table. Here is a link that might be useful: Fixture choice

I disagree that the pin-type fluorescent bulbs have "uglier" light than the screw-in fluorescent bulbs. I think it is about the same. I still prefer the look of incandescent lighting, but here in California we are required to use fluorescent or other energy efficient lighting for over 50% of our total wattage in kitchens. I also feel a moral obligation to conserve where I can. If you get the "warm white" color spectrum bulbs, they are okay. In my kitchen, I have mostIy 5" diameter can lights with 26 watts each. They take the pin-type bulbs. I would recommend them. I would definitely not go lower to the 13 watt fixtures. I do have a 5" can over the sink that uses a PAR bulb, and it puts out MUCH more light. I wasn't happy with the amount of light I got over the sink with even a 26 watt fluorescent bulb. The advantage of using 13 watt fluorescents is that you can use a 4" can, but then you will just need more of them. You trade off smaller holes for the swiss cheese look, so I don't think it is worth it. In my office, where I am usually in a seated position, I put in 6" can lights that take screw-in fluorescents. I am happy enough with them. There are fluorescents that dim, but they usually dim to an ugly shade. Think about whether you will want to dim your pendant lights over your island. Also, with a pin-type fixture, you only have one option of wattage to put in it. I don't see any advantage at all for you in choosing island lights that take the pin-type fluorescent bulb. You will be paying more and limiting your options. The fluorescent bulbs do use mercury and may be replaced some day with an even better technology. I would just buy regular fixtures and put fluorescent lights in them.

oldalgebra- Your wooden box should work fine as a facade, but, to be to code, all the connections must be inside a proper electrical box, and that electrical box should have a cover on it. That means that you should leave a bit of length to the lamp cords as they need to go into the electrical ceiling box so they can be clamped, and code requires that all wire ends being connected need to protrude from the open electrical box by 6" while they are being worked on. If the ceiling box is already in place in the ceiling, I suspect that the electrician may install an extension ring to accommodate all the wires legally, and use a cover with a hole and cable clamp in it. In addition, the electrician needs room to work with the wooden box not in the way, so additional slack in the fixture cords is also necessary for that purpose. I'd install a couple of long screw eyes in the ceiling and into a joist and then hang the wooden box temporarily from these so that someone doesn't have to try to hold the box up while someone else does the electrical. If it were me, I'd have about an extra 2' of lamp cord for each of those fixtures to make it easier to do the electrical properly. By the way, how do you intend to securely fix the wooden box to the ceiling?