The building code for 1 & 2 family dwellings is mostly prescriptive which means it actually sets minimum and maximum values and sizes structural members for a given location in the house. This is not intended to be used as a design guide but to place limits on what you might design yourself. Using the code as a design guide can result in deficiencies but that is not the fault of the code writers. The joist size tables do not consider long span bounce. The wall systems described are the ones most commonly used but the code does not intend to forbid the use of others. The waterproofing requirements are not extensive or adequate although the addition of the requirement to install materials according to the manufacturer's instructions was intended to fill that gap. Concrete foundations and slabs should be designed to ACI 332 since the IRC does not consider many common detailing problems. Placing pipes in an outside wall is a design problem that may be addressed by some codes but there is no reason to prohibit that condition. If there were to be a restriction it would have to be based on a map or list of locations similar to the requirements for wall vapor retarders. You can base your decision about the location of pipes on anecdotal information and other people's opinions or you can design the wall to avoid freezing of the pipe. If you choose the latter, you can use the formula normally used to locate the dew point in a wall in order to determine where the temperature would be 32 degrees or lower. Ignoring air infiltration for a moment, a water supply pipe 1 1/2" deep in a 2x4 stud wall and insulated with 3 1/2" of fiberglass insulation would probably freeze at about -10 degrees F. Ironically, removing 1 1/2" of the insulation on the warm side would lower the outside temperature needed to freeze the pipe to about -50 degrees but for fiberglass insulation air-infiltrations makes that prediction unreliable. So the design solution is to air seal the stud cavity and place R-10 or greater insulation on the cold side of the pipe. This is best done with spray foam (Icynene, etc.) and if the studs are 2x6's, the R value would be as much as R-14 which would put the temperature of the pipe at about 55 degrees when the outside air temperature is -30 degrees F. At that outside temperature the house temperature would need to drop below 45 degrees for the pipe to freeze. This design is roughly equivalent to a double 2x4 stud wall with no insulation in the interior wall and 3 1/2" foam or dense-pack cellulose insulation in the outer wall. The way it was done in my house back in 1903, was to put a "double wall" of wood lath and rough plaster at the middle of the full 2x4 stud cavity throughout the house and at the shower pipe the space behind the pipe was filled with vermiculite plaster. This pipe has never frozen but because of the risk of air infiltration I don't count on protection below -20 degrees. Remember that these calculations assume that the interior temperature is 68 degrees or higher, so if you set the thermostat at 55 degrees or the bathroom is under heated or you close the shower door you should adjust the calculation.

We had worked with Carlene Anderson CKD in 2010. She is based in Oakland, CA and is a real dear to work with. She is very patient with us. We didn't even have a picture of any "ideal" kitchens to show her when we first met. That was how clueless we were. We only knew we had an IKEA kitchen budget. Ha, that was so long ago... We ended up not using her final layout design for us as I decided I want to keep the built-in china cabinet, and that triggered a realization that we tend to make decisions slowly. Meaning, hiring a CKD is great if you like to make decisions fast. Sadly, we don't operate that way. We chew (or obsessed?) on various aspects of the kitchen for a long time. And, we don't have the budget to keep going through many layout iterations with a CKD. So, slowly over many moons, we redid the layout ourselves with helpful tips from GW-ers. But, we incorporated many of Carlene's key ideas into our current kitchen remodel to improve the flow and functionality of our kitchen. Other places/people I have talked to that could be a good resource for you: - Custom Spaces on Solano Ave, Berkeley - Paragon Kitchen in Oakland - JB Turner and Sons, in Oakland I didn't use their services since we ended up purchasing Inner Most cabinetry from HD as it fits our budget better. All the best in your search!

Floor and Decor has 8' butcher blocks for as little as 170 bucks. I'd look into one of those. they shouldn't be too thick. Builder grade oak is 170 and 1 1/2" thick. https://www.flooranddecor.com/butcher-blocks-decoratives as for the concrete, you can do your own w/Ardex feather coat. you will need a base,,,some new plywood should work. plenty of how-to's online for that. and heck, if you're handy, you can make you own with specific size wood thicknesshttps://realitydaydream.com/how-to-build-butcher-block-counter/ for really cheap, you could use Doug Fir boards. just look up DIY wood countertops as for your little counter triangle, just look for a remnant granite piece. hell that small, they usually throw them out. go to a stone fabricators shop and ask them for a throwaway piece. support it w/metal brackets and a cleat.

I recently remodeled and could never have achieved a successful result without having the services of a local designer. Not only did she really "know" the space but as others have pointed out a good designer has resources for everything. A good designer will also verify that everything is done well and everything that is delivered is in good shape. He or she will supervise installers of drapes; wallpapers and everything else. In my experience, a good designer isn't limited to one look that you might have viewed on the internet but is able to transfer their skills to your tastes and budget so that the end project is a collaboration. When I met with my designer she had her book but after turning a few pages, I realized it was pointless to look at what she had done for others. We then discussed what my tastes were - what I wanted to accomplish - I sent her pictures of what I liked and so the end result reflects my taste but is so much more than I could have accomplished left to my own devices.