My subfloor is not slab so I can do either. I had originally thought of doing solid, so I could refinish them, but I have a budget of $5/SF and this Bruce solid is the only one in my budget that is 5 inches wide. Alas, reviews of their solid floors seem quite poor, although I have not read any reviews specifically of their Kennedale line, which the store salesman tells me is very high quality. I have read that the engineered is better for wider planks. So that is one consideration. I also read that the Shaw finish is very durable and scratch resistant. I am hoping to buy a Roomba and have that sweep up every day, keeping dust to a minimum. The darker wood really sets off my white cabinetry well, somI prefer to go as dark as I can allow. Doesmany one own a Roomba and can speak to how well those work?

Also, the Home Decorating forum here can provide a lot more of the decorating type help. The paint forum can be more technical or instructive. Good luck!

So pretty. Whites will work, greens will work, gray-greens will work...stronger blues would work if you were so inclined. (I know, kills appetite a bit) If you still have the preference for a bit muted colors(like in your valance), here's the nice round up of subtle yet rich greens for you. Maybe you'll see something you like. I didn't use any of them, I did use couple of greens I loved but they are Dunn Edwards..I don't know whether there is Dunn Edwards where you are. Benjamin Moore, on the other hand, is everywhere, is a good quality from my experience, and I really trust the lady who writes this blog:) https://laurelberninteriors.com/2015/04/19/6-serene-green-paints-that-arent-called-green/

Lacquer is a completely misunderstood finish and can be excellent as a clear coating, but you really have to work with someone who knows about these finishes. There are many kinds of “lacquer” now that aren’t even lacquer, as well as what they used in the 80’s that everyone hates, and you need someone who knows the difference. However if you are open to a more natural maple finish it can be really pretty and there are easier options than lacquer if you’re doing it yourself. I did two large maple projects in the last year that turned out great, IMO because they were near natural. Both times I did several coats of a “glue wash” type pre conditioner. One was drawer boxes and I used a light, diluted pigmented stain, and it gave them sort of a white washed look. It turned out way better than I expected and would look great on furniture but I don’t think I’d like it on doors. On another project I used general finishes high performance over the sealed natural maple and the sheen is gorgeous. Actually I forgot, one more I used white wax, which is fantastic on natural maple, but not enough protection for doors. If you want to go darker it really has to be dyed, and you’ll want someone else to do it. IMO maple is most beautiful and turns out best if you like maple close to it’s natural color. It’s definitely possible to get complex and dark finishes on maple and I have in the past, but the more I grow up I dont think it’s worth it. I use other wood for darker finishes now.