I'm assuming this is your layout? I like it a lot!

which side of sink would be best for dishwasher? I like it where it is: it doesn't block access to the sink, and it looks like someone could scoot by it to get to the range even if it was open. I figure that 24" cabinet on the other side can be dish storage, which means that someone can (and hopefully would) grab a glass and get a drink from the fridge by walking around the bottom of the island and not into the kitchen.

Do you think cabinets in between fridge and freezer are okay? Or kind of cave-like? Two 9" pullouts?
At 30" wide, I think they can avoid being cavelike. I would put your MW in the upper here, and it makes a nice place for the toaster and/or coffee maker on the counter - they can stay out but still be somewhat hidden from view.

However! If you do not have a pantry elsewhere, I would put a 30" wide pantry cabinet with drawers on the bottom and doors with roll-out shelves behind. The MW/coffee maker/toaster etc. can take up some space on the baking area. Try an under-counter drawer MW, or put it in the upper, but either way put it all the way to left on that run so the view of it is somewhat blocked by the fridge.

I could have three 36" drawers instead of three 30" drawers but it would muss up my symmetry.
Do you mean flanking the range? I would prefer the 36" drawers personally, because I don't think symmetry is as noticeable in lowers as it is in uppers, and your uppers are already quite symmetrical.

For the open shelves on either side of the range - what kind - open-open or the kind that look like an upper cabinet without doors? Should they go all the way to the corner?
Definitely all the way to the corner. For style, I guess it depends on the look you are going for. I tend to think of the open-open shelves as lot airier, always a casual look, and can skew modern or traditional depending on the material of the shelves and whether or not you use visible supports like corbels or brackets. I tend to think of the uppers without doors is a cottage look.

Any other helpful advice is always appreciated.
1. I would consider widening the range wall windows if the proportions would still look graceful with the height of your ceiling, if that wall gets good natural light, if it has a good view, if the change would look better from whatever room the kitchen opens to at the bottom, etc.
2. I would suggest a small trash under your cleanup sink - either pull-out or one of those circular ones that swing out when you open the door. You don't want to have to trudge over to the prep sink's trash, or have someone horning into your prep space, if they can stay over at the cleanup sink.
3. The uppers on the range wall would look very nice if they came down to the counter. While that is usually more of a closed cabinet look, perhaps you could do the uppers without doors look on the top, with an appliance garage or drawers or a plate rack in the space that extends to the counter. Don't know if this works for your vision.

Tracie.erin - wow, thanks for your detailed response and for posting my layout! I meant to do it right away but stuff happens.

I'm happy with the dw there now that you've laid out all the pros for it. I'm glad you think 30" is big enough to avoid a cave - I could steal a bit more space but I would probably rather not. You can't see in the picture, I guess I missed it but there's a 15" broom type closet cabinet next to the freezer. The doorway next to the fridge is for a pantry. I'm gong to have a pantry! I'm so excited about that.

Mmm, what else. That would be a good spot for a microwave, don't tell anyone, but we don't have one. I don't think they're evil or anything, I just don't use one.
Maybe I'll look into putting 36" drawers somewhere, at least one, maybe.

I don't think I would want the uppers on the stove wall to go to the counter - that would infringe on my counter space. Those windows are already framed. They are the same size as the individual windows on the sink wall. Trash by the clean up snk would be a good idea.

Thank you for all your thoughts and ideas, and advice - very, very much appreciated!