Is it a big deal to remove faucet base plate?
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9 years ago
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jennifer132
9 years agoFori
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Removing brick, moving mantle on fireplace - cost? big deal?
Comments (6)I actually just went through this. My family room had a floor to ceiling brick veneer wall with fireplace and a hearth spanning the length of the wall which extended out about 18" x 18". B/c the wall was a veneer (i.e. a single layer of brick butting up against studs and insulation) I was leary of framing over it with 2" x 4" to hang drywall, shelves, TV's etc. It was also huge (20' x 10' wall), took up too much space and made the room look a lot darker. I believe alot of home owners did this back in the 70's, but the wife and I just weren't into it. In any event, for removal, I thought about using an angle grinder with a diamond wheel, but then I thought of the incredible amount of dust which would be generated and went after it instead with a cold pick chisel (or brick chisel) and a small sledgehammer (otherwise known as a "drilling" hammer). I'd basically go at it with the chisel in the mortar seams. Once I got the top row out (it butted right up to the ceiling drywall) the rest of the wall came down relatively easily. It took about 3 days (30 hours) and once completed I counted over 500 bricks and about 20 bags of broken mortar. I decided to save the whole bricks I was able to harvest from the wall and clean them with the chisel to remove excess mortar in case I'd like to use it for a future project (which probably added 2-4 hours to the job). As others have noted in this forum, the veneer is "held" to the studs and/or back wall using small thin strips of metal. The center of the strip is nailed to the stud and the ends of the strip were stuck into the morter between the bricks. The 18" extruding hearth was a little more difficult as the inside center (once I removed the outside bricks) contained large cement blocks. To "frame" out the fireplace and hearth to the size that we wanted I used the chisel and cut bricks where necessary. This by no means gives you a smooth cut, and I will need to tack a frame back around the fireplace edge and fill in the gaps with mortar to complete the job. Above the fireplace underneath the veneer was either brick, cement or a wooden header (at the top). When attaching studs to this I used both tapcons and masonery nails. Luckily I had a large wooden header at the top of the wall which I screwed into with 3" nails to hold the top of my stud frame. I first screwed/nailed in two by fours and then build it up further with 1" x 4" studs. Extending the depth of the frame was necessary so that I'd have enough space in the wall above the fireplace to contain electrical boxes, electical/video/audio cables and in-wall speakers. I also used this new frame to fasten the HDTV to. Other's have noted concerns about fireplace heat in regards to hanging HDTV above it and installing framing ontop of the brick. Our fireplace holds a wood pellet stove that is a closed system to increase efficiency. In this way, little heat actually goes up and out the chimney as a blower motor forces it all out into the room. I have little heat above the fireplace b/c of the way the stove is engineered, so I wasn't too concerned about damaging the TV or excessive heating of the chimney material above the fireplace creating a fire hazard with the wood frame that was added. I'll admit, it was alot of work and alot of material to remove, but then again, demo-ing a room (especially a room built back in the 60's) is always a messy job. Hope this info helps anyone interested in tackling the same job. smithmal...See MoreFaucet Base Plate - Optional?
Comments (4)I think for most pull down single hole kitchen faucets, the base plate is optional and included to cover possible extra holes in case your sink is already drilled for three holes. My kitchen faucet, the Delta Ashton is like that. If you click the link you see it says "optional deck escutcheon included" and the picture includes the base plate. Here's a photo of mine installed without the base plate: Check the installation instructions on the faucet you're interested in to make sure. It shouldn't matter which side of the sink the faucet and soap dispenser are on, but check underneath the sink to make sure pipes etc. aren't in the way....See MoreI'm so upset but no-one else thinks it's a big deal!
Comments (139)Oh my goodness! I haven't been on here for awhile as it's been very hectic. I have at this point moved on from the kitchen cabinets. Dwelling on it is pointless and just makes me angry. Besides I've had other things on my mind (some of you may have seen my post regarding our backsplash disaster). Also, we noticed later that we didn't have any sockets on the island despite my having specified I wanted a socket on either side of my large island. KD said she didn't have anything in her notes about sockets on the island. Really??? And what do her notes say about the code for electrical outlets on a kitchen island to pass inspection????!!! Of course, there was NO room for us to add them in. Her solution: cut two of the drawer backs to shorten them, buy new shorter soft close rails for the now shortened drawers and then add sockets behind them. I. don't. think. so. We were left to sort that out on her own. Couldn't be bothered to deal with her anymore after that. Anyhows. I thought I'd give a quick update. I re-ordered the white drawer fronts and decided to leave the blue island drawers as is. The new fronts just arrived today and have yet to be installed. I still don't have any hardware on the blue island. I want it to be different but haven't really had time to properly look. I'll get there eventually. I think it's a good compromise. The drawers don't bother me as much on the island and I'm pretty certain that after a few months I won't notice it at all. Or as much ;)...See MoreCountertop not flush on side near stove and caulking. Big deal?
Comments (20)Really appreciate all the feedback I’ve been getting. To the left of the misaligned counter is our fridge. I wonder if they would be able to just move it over slightly as it seems like the back end still has some clearance. Otherwise, like it’s been mentioned, and they move just the front end over to the right to cover the base cabinet then it will create a bit of a gap on the left back end. We do plan to eventually get backsplash though so it shouldn’t be too much of a concern if that is the route we need to take. As for the caulking on the island, my GC and I actually made sure it was leveled prior to counter installation so it’s weird there is that much of a gap. It could be that we only checked the leveling of the front and back of the cabinet and not just the front horizontally....See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years agoUser
9 years agoFori
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